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  • 1964 Studebaker Wiring Harness

    Hi Everyone,

    I am new to the world of Studebakers and am interested in purchasing a 1964 Studebaker Lark locally. This Studebaker is equipped with a rebuilt ohv 170 c.i engine, with 1000 miles on the motor. The owner states that the car needs the wiring harness from the selinoid to the alternator replaced (melt down). How hard of a fix is this issue, and where would I be able to find such a part (and for what price). Also, are there any other known problems with this type of Studebaker that I should look for?

    Best Regards,
    Tom (Glass_Packs)

    Where were you in '62?

  • #2
    From the Studebaker International cataloque: Chassis front wiring harness (dashboard and forward) '64 Lark 6 cyl. NOS #1561446 $200.
    Hope this helps.
    Tim K.
    Tim K.
    \'64 R2 GT Hawk

    Comment


    • #3
      It'll take you an afternoon or possibly a whole day if you're as anal as I am...[:I]

      Lotsa Larks!
      Studeclunker
      A.K.A: out2lunch
      Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
      K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
      Ron Smith
      Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

      Comment


      • #4
        Tom,

        It's pretty easy to fix. As GTim shows, new harnesses are readily available. But you might get lucky unless the harness is REALLY a fried mess[xx(]. I just had a situation where a wire to a generator got cooked and although the harness made me groan when I first looked at it, once unwrapped, it wasn't as bad as I'd assumed.
        Whichever way you go to fix it, be damned sure you know what caused it in the first place[:0] Wires, like fuses, don't just "go bad". There's always a REASON that caused them to fry - bad alternator, regulator, SOME kind of short that causes the wire to be forced into handling more current than it was designed to.
        Studes have rust issues. Look under the front floor carpets and at the trunk floor. Check the lower rear parts of the front fenders (feel from behind for filler). Also, the inner A-arm bushings tended to go south after about 8 or 10 years. Both these maladies are fairly easy to fix.
        The cylinder heads on the OHV 6s have a propensity to develop cracks between the valve seats. If the engine never got run hot, this may not have developed as overheating seems to be the catalyst to causing the cracks - although, poor engineering contributed. This late 6 was really a quick modification of the venerable Champion flathead 6 that had served since 1939. By 1960 it was being surpassed by more modern 6s and they basically revamped the aging Champion by grafting on an OHV head. It wasn't that it was a bad idea - Rambler had pulled off such an upgrade with their 196 flathead and it served them very well. In fact, Rambler used the flattie 196 alongside the OHV version right thru 1965![:0]

        Miscreant at large.
        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

        Comment


        • #5
          Hi Everyone,

          Thanks for all of your assistance. I've been talking to the owner of the car about the problematic areas of the Studebaker Lark. It appears the car is fairly rust free (a little rocker rust) and has never overheated (had a new head installed when the engine was rebuilt). As far as he is concerned the suspension is A-ok. As for the wiring harness his mechanic told him that a bare wire had crossed paths and bailed. Besides the wiring harness, the other area he mentioned that required work was the brakes (need adjustment). The asking price is $700.00 CDN firm. Does the idea of a bare wire crossing paths sound logical, or do you think there could be something else behind the wiring harness shorting out? Also, do you believe it will be costly to bring this car to roadworthy condition and to do usual maintance?

          Best Regards,
          Tom (Glass_Packs)

          Where were you in '62?

          Comment


          • #6
            As for the wiring harness, over the winter I replaced the front and rear harnesses on my '64. The front harness is a one-piece unit that includes the entire dashboard/instrument cluster and under hood components, with no connector at the firewall (which is common on many makes). I had the dash out of my car already. I began by wiring the dash and cluster completely, placed the dash in the car, and threaded the under hood portion of the harness through the firewall for subsequent connection. I can assure you that installing the harness with the dash in the car is not a fun proposition. You may want to explore the previous suggestion that you examine and repair the harness you have. (In my case, previous owners had committed unspeakable crimes with the wiring under the dash and I was anxious to start fresh.)

            Also, I'd heard horror stories related to (OEM) voltage regulator failures, including fried harnesses and blown gauges, so I installed a solid state regulator that I obtained from a vendor. Whether or not this is an improvement is still to be determined.

            Good luck with your car!

            MarkC in ID

            MarkC, 64 Y8
            Working in Spokane, WA

            Comment


            • #7
              Tom,

              The "bare wire" scenario certainly IS a possibility. But it sounds a bit of a stretch to me. That said, I still don't think it would be hard to repair if, in fact, the whole harness didn't get fried. When one wire gets hot enough to melt it's insulation, it can just keep melting right thru adjacent insulation of other wires in the bundle. And once a couple or more get shorted together - well - there's gonna be a whole lotta smokin' goin' on! Or worse![xx(]
              Of course, the car in question is obviously not bad looking and not a charred hulk, so I doubt the damage went any further than the harness or a small section of it.
              And besides that, a new harness really isn't that expensive when considered against the overall deal.[:I]
              But one thing you've said would raise a flag of suspicion for me - that thing about the brakes "just needing adjustment". A competent mechanic can do a brake adjustment on that car in 5 minutes or less. Why would you not have that done instead of offering excuses about it? As a matter of fact, the 64s had self-adjusting brakes on them. But I've found that often, the little bits that make this happen have worn over the years or just been eliminated altogether.
              Of course, if the car's owner has had little, niggling things give him grief about the car (like the fried wire or such), maybe he's just tired of the car nickle-dime'n him and want's to wash his hands of it altogether[8] I've gotten some good Stude deals in just such scenarios as that.
              One thing to bear in mind about these old cars - most of today's "mechanics" ("technicians" as they like to be called) can't pick their nose unless there's a computer readout to tell them which finger to use and which nostril to put it in. In most cases - YOU - are gonna be the best friend that car has. If you're gonna have to turn every little repair over to a "technician", make sure you have lots of money, lots of patience and something else to drive most of the time.
              The price sounds right - if the car doesn't have engine problems. And if it's engine was rebuilt a thousand miles ago, unless it was in storage for many years, I'd wanna know where they found a "new" head. NOS heads for OHV 6s have been unavailable for a good number of years now. Of course, maybe by "new", they simply meant "new" to THIS engine and it's a good, rebuilt, used head. A matter of phrasing it with the right words? Maybe - but I'd ask for definition. And, since it sounds like it's driveable - do so. Then ask them to adjust the brakes, since they contend that's all that's needed.[}]
              Since you're gonna lay out the bucks, this thing's no "gift horse" - take a look in it's mouth!

              Miscreant at large.
              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

              Comment


              • #8
                I agree with all that's been said. The solenoid can only get to the alternator through the regulator. It's wise to look at "all" the wires
                connected to them both. 5 wires on the solenoid, some ignition,some charging system. I must mention to all 63' and later Lark owners: The key switch on these models is VERY close to the dash. There was a service bulletin in 64' installing an insulation block to protect against dash fires. If only a few or several wires are affected, I'd
                simply cut them out and replace with new...wrap back up in original loom, and be on your way. To put in perspective, $200. for a $700. car is a lot for wires! You can easily get a copy of the electrical schematic to replace. The brakes need to be inspected. It's likely the rear drums/hubs were tough to get off, and may reveal the source of problem. If you buy the car, you will need to remove 4 drums and rear hubs (with correct puller) and re-pack with fresh grease. I always "pull" the rear hubs and check brakes, endplay, and such on EVERY Stude I buy..

                Comment


                • #9
                  Actualy, the Alternator does get to the solenoid without going thru the regulator. The Alt's. output goes to the ammeter and then to the battery side of the solenoid. The regulator only connects directly to the alternator insofar as the field lead is concerned.

                  Miscreant at large.
                  No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Say Glasspacks, Have you actualy SEEN the "burnt wire" with your own eyes? Reason I ask is it's not uncommon for the wire from the alternator to get hot and fry the insulation right where said wire connects to the ammeter. That could be where the burning happened and IF that's the case, it might well be repaired by cutting the wire back a few inches and splicing on a new end section and terminal. This needs to be well done with the RIGHT crimping tool and parts. Not just a pair of regular pliers as I've seen so many wire fixes done with![xx(] This is a critical wire since ALL the current the alternator makes goes thru the ammeter.[:I]
                    If that connection got a bit loose, that would cause said connection to get so hot as to cook the insulation and anneal the copper terminal as well.[V] The damage COULD have been localized but it could also have spread into other wires in the bundle. There'd be no way of determining just HOW extensive such damage would be without disconnecting and pulling the harness out from under the dash. I sure wouldn't want to try and diagnose or repair it laying with my head on the floor and working past the pedals and steering column![8]
                    Again - you didn't say if the car's driveable or immobilized at this time. If it's immobilized because of the meltdown, I'd either get a guarantee that it'll run like it has a 1000-mile engine in it when you DO get it repaired - or look for another car.
                    And too, if you really wanted to buy the thing, you could disconnect all the harness and just use a few jumper wires to "hot wire" it and make it so you could test drive it before you committed to buying it.

                    Miscreant at large.
                    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi Mr. Biggs,

                      I have not seen the burnt wires personally. I plan on seeing the car soon, and will bring my digital camera to take some pictures of the damaged area. The Studebaker is in running condition, as the owner has used a few jumper wires to "hot wire" it. The only way I could see the car being immobilized is because of the brakework needed.

                      Best Regards,
                      Tom (Glass_Packs)

                      Where were you in '62?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Tom,
                        Do yourself a biiiiig favor! Get the wiring harness. Take it from me. If it has fried wires the harness is shot. Unless of course you are a professional mechanic.
                        Personally I would'nt give the guy over $500 for the car. Unless of course the car is otherwise really be-yoo-tea-ful! Look into an internally regulated alternator. It will save you a lot of grief. When you attach the wire, just use the thick red and white wire and wrap off (with electricians tape) the other two small wires. You don't even have to remove the regulator. By the way, the regulator should be shot anyway. one short and they are reliably ruined.
                        I know this rewiring will be a pain in the wazoo. especially the instrument panel (oh how I know). Trust me, it's worth it. Just be carefull with the dash cluster. The oil pressure gage is live. I.E. it has a tiny copper pipe that goes to the engine and will drip oil on your feet if not tight.[xx(]

                        If you don't replace the harness, count on a thousand little problems driving you nuts.[}]

                        Sometimes it's not entirely her fault I call her the Blue Witch...

                        Lotsa Larks!
                        Studeclunker
                        A.K.A: out2lunch
                        Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                        K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                        Ron Smith
                        Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Guys (and gals) is this truth or fiction: 1963 and 1964 Studebakers...especially Larks...had wiring problems. I've heard stories through the years of new Larks literally burning down the houses of their proud new owners. I had first hand experience with this a few years ago when my 1963 Cruiser nearly fried its harness. A friend with a 1965 Cruiser completely fried his a few years ago.

                          Also friends, be wary of your ignition switch falling right through the dashboard and creating an electrical fire. I've seen this happen twice on 1964 Lark-type cars.

                          Just wondering if anyone else has heard similar horror stories.

                          "Different...By Design"
                          Studedude1961

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            allso try RHODE ISLAND WIRING OEM products

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Try Rhode Island if you like paying thru the nose.[xx(] Studebakers West has good harnesses as well as SASCo and SI.

                              Miscreant at large.

                              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                              1960 Larkvertible V8
                              1958 Provincial wagon
                              1953 Commander coupe
                              1957 President 2-dr
                              1955 President State
                              1951 Champion Biz cpe
                              1963 Daytona project FS
                              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                              Comment

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