PDA

View Full Version : Paint Question



Tbatson
04-28-2005, 07:43 AM
I have a 56 Champ with a two tone finish. The bottom color is Redwood. I started with PPG Ditzler who didn't have a paint formula for that color but did "computer generate" something fairly close. The problem is of course I really can't tell what the original color looked like after 49 years. Can anyone recommend a paint manufacturer that has these old formulas that can be duplicated in their new product lines?
Thanks, Tom

JDP
04-28-2005, 08:24 AM
Dupont Auto Paint Color Matching

1-800-3 Dupont

Call them with the year and color name and they'll

give you the modern paint code.

64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Tbatson
04-28-2005, 11:56 AM
Thanks, JDP. DuPont gave me a computer generated paint number to try. They said it is only available in a base coat/clear coat. I would have liked to shoot it in Acrylic Enamel only because that is a product I was use to spraying. But, that was 25 years ago. I don't believe you can even buy acrylic lacquer anymore. Can anyone jump in with some + and/or - on the base coat/clear coat system?
Thanks, Tom

gotti210
04-28-2005, 11:00 PM
well i do know that basecoat/clearcoat look excellent after its be color sanded and compounded out


(shines like a mirror)

Sonny
04-29-2005, 12:43 AM
quote:Originally posted by Tbatson

Thanks, JDP. DuPont gave me a computer generated paint number to try. They said it is only available in a base coat/clear coat. I would have liked to shoot it in Acrylic Enamel only because that is a product I was use to spraying. But, that was 25 years ago. I don't believe you can even buy acrylic lacquer anymore. Can anyone jump in with some + and/or - on the base coat/clear coat system?
Thanks, Tom


Base coat/clear coat is an awesomne paint system Tom. It's great for a show or driver car. The great thing about using it on your driver, it's soooooo easy to touch up/repair if ya ding or dang it. Be advised, you do not have to buy Dupont or some other very expensive paint.

We use a brand named Valspar, it's the same stuff that the car makers use, and it's just as good as anything Dupont or any of them put out. We buy it at a place named Keystone Automotive Industries Inc - (716) 894-6262 - 485 Ludwig Ave, Buffalo, NY 14227. They sell the system, and everything to use it, at a very reasonable price. I dunno if they ship, but it might even be a national company and if you call them, they might be able to steer you to a place closer to buy the stuff. Ask for "Elvis", (his real name is Dave), he really knows his stuff and he bents over backwards to make sure that you get what you want.

We have a bunch of painters in my crowd, and we've all had experience with all the one-step and lacquer paint systems in days past, but BC/CC is the only way any of us do it any more. The other great thing about the BC/CC stuff is that every color that you can think of or have seen on a production car is available, including special mixes or variations of the basic color, (like I did on my Lark). Hope this helps, Good luck!

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

Kdancy
04-29-2005, 06:05 AM
Base coat clear coat is the way to go. It will be a "brighter" finish than the orginal. Be sure to use an epoxy primer and follow the directions. There are several different price levels. I personally use PPG because I am used to it and their "concept" line is one of the better quality paints. Try your local paint supplier for the brand they use, most of these people are very helpful.

53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT

Tbatson
04-29-2005, 10:10 AM
Quick question on the epoxy primer. Is it a product similar to a primer sealer? Something that is shot on over primer surfacer and the sanded paint surface just before you shoot the base color.
Thanks, Tom

Kdancy
04-29-2005, 01:23 PM
Epoxy primer is a primer and can be used as a sealer as well, usually thinned a little different for sealing. The general procedure is to go down to bare metal, get your metal work done, epoxy prime over that while the metal is clean and rust free and then do any filler or bondo work needed (hopefully not much) and then use blocking primer (this is a high build primer that is used to block out imperfections). Get as much of the imperfections out of the way as possible using skim coat of body filler, this will save you money on the blocking primer which is much more expensive. An excellent site to go to is
http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/bbs2/webbbs_config.pl
for beginners and pros alike.


53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT

n/a
05-01-2005, 05:16 PM
Okay, I know I'm going to take sh*t for my comments, so don't get too upset guys.

I dislike cut base / clear coat paint. Anyone who has ever said its easy to repair or touch up has never actully done it. Touching up does not look "right" especially if the color is a metalic. its pretty easy to touch up enamel or laquer, but cut base clear requires special air toch up tools wich most us us don't have.

The cut base is quite easy to apply and sand if one gets some runs, but its not idiot proof like enamel or laquer.

Another consideration is that if I car is going to be judged, many will deduct points for the cut base clear coat paint.

Kent Fedor
SDC member, Reed City, Michigan

Kdancy
05-02-2005, 05:45 AM
Actually, if you are using metallics, the base coat clear coat system is easier to get uniform. But what ever floats your boat, it's your car. You can do an acrylic enamel paint and clear over that if you like. Todays lacquer is nothing like it was 30 years ago. Some one in Hemmings advertises the old style lacquer.
BC-CC is not the easiest to touch up, as the entire panel needs to be cleared. A very experienced painter can do a small area but it does take some skill. Also, I've found it is easier to get some Stude formulas in BC-CC than the other types of paint.

53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT