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1949commander
04-14-2005, 09:47 AM
Maybe someone can help me. I was working on a friends 66 Daytona with 283 v-8 and auto trans. He was having trouble with it sputtering and not able to idle once it was warmed up. I said it sounded like points/condensor. Eventhough the literature says that electronic ignition was standard on 66 Daytona's his has the Delco window and non electronic system. I checked the points and sure enough they had signs of burning. I quickly noticed the system was lacking the resistor before the coil. That's why the points were burnt after being replaced last year by someone else. I replaced the points, condensor, put a new coil and the resistor on. The car started fine, and then while waiting for it to warm up it started running really poorly, and a ticking sounds showed up too. I went to the exhaust and it sounds like it is only running on 5 or 6 cylinders. It won't idle or run at less than 1300 rpms. I set the dwell best as I could at that RPM and tried to adjust the distributor to get it to run smooth and no matter what I did it wouldn't smooth out. I finally decided it must have a couple of sticking valves once the engine warms up. I would like to do a compression check but acess to the plugs on the Chevy 283 is absolutly terrible. They always said Stude was 30 years ahead of the times, they sure were on serviceablity. Anyway does my description indicate sticking valves, the engine has 90,000 miles and most of them were put on the car before it went into storage for about 20 years.

Thanks :D

Restore it, don't replace it.Keep the Studebaker reproduction industry going

Roscomacaw
04-14-2005, 11:16 AM
Short of that PITA compression check, try using a vacuum gage. Put it on and start the engine cold. Watch and take notes of what the gage says as the car goes from cold to hot.;)

Miscreant at large.

1949commander
04-14-2005, 12:04 PM
I'll give that a try.

Thanks:D

Restore it, don't replace it.Keep the Studebaker reproduction industry going

52hawk
05-11-2005, 10:41 PM
Do you have a resistor before the points? Those points will burn up with a full 12 volts to them,causing the problem you describe.Chevy and "stude' used a 'resistor wire' to the points,and you've probably seen the old ignition resistor on Chrysler products.On a 61 Hawk,for example,a pink wire goes from the ignition switch to the points-this wire over time, LOOSES its resistance,and needs to be replaced.The only time the points get full battery voltage is when the key is being turned to crank the engine.This 'full voltage'comes from a separate wire---Since the car should have been electronic ignition,someone probably has 'rewired'it.If they used the hot wire from the original setup,the points are getting full voltage,and will be junk after a few minutes of running.

not golden hawk,not silver hawk,just hawk.

52hawk
05-11-2005, 11:00 PM
by 'before the points' I mean the positive post on the coil.Primary voltage goes through the coil,and is 'broken' by the points.This primary voltage on the positive post of coil cannot be a full 12 volts,except during cranking.

not golden hawk,not silver hawk,just hawk.