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PalmerGA
04-11-2005, 11:38 AM
Question: What are the hardest to find post-war window regulators?

Answer: Those for the driver and passenger side doors of a 1963 Daytona Convertible.

Can anybody help me with this? I found a source that sells rebuilt ones w/ exchange, for $100 each! Youch! Mine "skip" like crazy and the driver's side won't go up or down without manual (my hand) assistance.

Thanks.

'63 Daytona Convertible

Roscomacaw
04-11-2005, 01:18 PM
The driver's door regulators are the one's that poop out first. And that's understandable.[V]

Miscreant at large.

studegary
04-11-2005, 02:02 PM
If your problem is that the teeth on the big sector are worn, you can build them up with braze and then grind them to the proper shape. This fix lasts for years with normal use.

JDP
04-11-2005, 05:23 PM
I've been able to sawp the 'guts' (The gear parts)from more popular regulators by a little creative work. BTW, $100 each for rebuilt is cheap compared to even less rare NOS regulators.

64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Studenut65
04-11-2005, 06:07 PM
I agree with JDP, 100 dollars isn't bad. For our 1960 Lark, we ordered a passenger door regulator from Stude-International and that was around 100 or 125 dollars. However, if the window works afterwords, its well worth it IMO.

Nate

PalmerGA
04-12-2005, 03:24 PM
Thanks y'all. Not that handy with welding, so I'll probably go with the rebuilds. [^]

'63 Daytona Convertible

PalmerGA
08-03-2005, 11:45 AM
After many months of fruitless searching, I have about decide to send my regulators off to be rebuilt. My friends at Stephen Allen's will do it for $95 per regulator (less shipping costs). I guess I'll go for that. Any comments regarding SA's work, etc. or is there a better source for this rebuild?

Now.... I've removed the inside door panels and see that there is not much in the way of an obvious procedure to removing the regulators. I have a shop manual which hopefully will walk me through the removal and installations process, but thought I'd ask the "old pros" for possible insider tips on this. Can anyone offer any suggestions on getting these regulators out/in that might be more helpful than the manual's instructions.

Thanks guys...

'63 Daytona Convertible

hank63
08-03-2005, 11:59 AM
Saw a car recently, where the original winding mech's had been replaced by a modern wire rope type electrical set-up. Was really neat and very cost effective (from a late model Ford car, actually). Thinking about it for my Hawk.
/ H

benny_64
08-03-2005, 10:29 PM
i really don't think there is an easy way to get the regulator out, i have pulled mine one day then the next day try take it out the same way and didn't work out. you'll struggle for a while then bam, just pops out. i feed a bungy down into the door to hold the glass up all the way and remove the bottom bolt of the forward chrome, that way you can get the gear and crank mount down to the bottom of the door. good luck.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com

PalmerGA
09-16-2005, 09:34 AM
quote:Originally posted by benny_64

i really don't think there is an easy way to get the regulator out, i have pulled mine one day then the next day try take it out the same way and didn't work out. you'll struggle for a while then bam, just pops out. i feed a bungy down into the door to hold the glass up all the way and remove the bottom bolt of the forward chrome, that way you can get the gear and crank mount down to the bottom of the door. good luck.

slow64
1964 lark daytona
bd_marks@yahoo.com
Regulator update:
Well, I made my first attempt at removing the passenger's side regulator, and failed miserably. :(
I went right by the manual and had the dang thing disconnected and in my hand in the access port, but could not get it to clear the forward window guide. I even went so far as to remove all the hardware securing the guide but still could not get the clearance needed to get the regulator out. Woe-is-me! This is a pain in the butt!

I will regroup and try it again this weekend. Ahhh - the joys of old cars. ;)

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible

studeclunker
09-16-2005, 02:50 PM
You know... I have a '63 wagon with the same problem. I for one will be watching this thread very closely.[8)]

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

N8N
09-16-2005, 05:42 PM
I think you have to pull the vent window to remove the regulator, but this is based on working on a '62 not a '63. I am aware the doors are different but maybe that didn't change.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

52hawk
09-17-2005, 07:44 AM
I had to pull the vent window out of the 61 hawk to get the regulator out,not the same car,but close to same design...
Got an NOS left regulator at SB swap meet for $75.00

Home of the Almostahawk

laughinlark
09-17-2005, 03:46 PM
I have a 63 Lark that I changed the window channel & rebuilt the regulators myself. I used a donor regulators from rear doors. I drilled out the rivits on the both the hand crank gear & the main regulator gear. I just tack welded them back together. Even if you don't have a welder you can do everything else & take it to a welding shop for a couple of quick tacks. ;)

Gordon

laughinlark
09-17-2005, 03:50 PM
I forgot to say you do have to remove the vent windows.[:I]

mbstude
09-26-2005, 04:55 PM
I realize that I may be a little late, but I'm having the same trouble with my 63 Lark HT. I just wanted to say thank you for all who posted on this topic and that it will be very helpful when I reaplace mine. I to will use Stephen Allen to rebuild mine. Although we do have a 63 Cruiser out back for parts.
BTW, does anyone know if SASCO has any NOS door panels for my car? I would really appreciate any opinions/answers. Thanks in advance...

Matthew Burnette
http://jnautoair.com/images/yelstude2.jpg
63 Daytona HT
lots more Studes
lotsa parts too
http://community.webshots.com/user/mbstude101

N8N
09-26-2005, 06:21 PM
This thread jogged my memory, does anyone have a driver's side regulator for a '55 C-body? It's somewhat hard to find because it uses different handles (they screw on rather than using the clips) than 56-64. I believe 53-55 C or K will work. I also need a door glass for the driver's side (C body only,) prefer good tinted but will take anything so long as the metal at the bottom is good. Vent windows, both sides, same deal.

thanks

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Jeff_H
09-26-2005, 07:20 PM
Nate,

Don't have any parts, but fore some reason I have it in my head that '55's have splined shafts on the window cranks? I know for a fact that '53-'54's have a square shaft on the winder but a spline on the door latch handle and was thinking '55 was different? They do use a counter sunk screw to hold them on.

Jeff

'53 Champion Hardtop

rockne10
09-26-2005, 08:04 PM
N8N,
That's all flat glass. Ifyou have the old glass any auto glass shop should be able to cut a new piece in whatever tint you desire.

Roscomacaw
09-26-2005, 08:55 PM
Jeff - you called it! 53-54 regulators would swap so long as you used the appropriate handles with them.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

N8N
09-26-2005, 09:28 PM
I know the glass is flat, it's the metal I really desire. Otherwise I'd just have the glass replaced in the metal piece that I have. Unfortunately at some point in the past the driver's side window regulator got bound up and instead of fixing it the PO just bent the crap out of everything trying to get the window to roll up/down. I have it "kinda" working now but the tracks at the bottom of the window are all kinds of wavy.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

PalmerGA
09-27-2005, 10:44 AM
Thank you all for the input. I've been out of town for a bit, but hope to tackle removing the regulators this weekend. From what I've experienced and read here, it appears I will be removing the window track to do this (although the manual says it simply requires removing the bottom attaching bolt). We'll see... one way or another, they're coming out!

I'll keep ya posted.

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible

PalmerGA
04-11-2006, 11:55 AM
Long time getting back on this, but thought I'd update my regulator problem. I finally got the passenger side regulator out and yes... is did require removing all of the fasteners on the vent window to be able to shift it enough to get clearance to pull the regulator.

Anyway, when I remover the regulator it looked fine. gear teeth all intact, etc. I put it in a vice and applied pressure to the bottom window guide (simulating window weight and then some). It cranked up and down perfectly. The apparent problem???? The plastic/nylon rollers were missing (disintegrated over time I guess). I replaced them, along with other clips, rollers, etc. and put it all back together. It works great!!!!! And all for about $15 in parts and a few hours of labor.

I hope the driver's side will go so well.

More later!!!

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible

Roscomacaw
04-11-2006, 04:50 PM
It's nice when things work out in your favor!;)

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

mbstude
04-12-2006, 07:51 PM
Will the regulators from a 60 Lark HT fit my 63 Lark HT? If so, I got a set in a parts car. (Well, not me, a friend of mine who said I can have em if I wanted them).

Matthew Burnette, the 16 year old Stude nut. South Georgia Chapter
http://www.stude.com/phpgallery/albums/userpics/0001matthew%7E0.jpghttp://www.stude.com/phpgallery/albums/userpics/avatat.jpghttp://www.stude.com/phpgallery/albums/userpics/basketcase2.jpg
63 Daytona HT (project)
51 Stude dump truck (yes, I won the raffle)
52 Commander Starliner (basket case)

MANY more Studes in the family and a few parts cars
http://community.webshots.com/user/mbstude101
And here: http://community.webshots.com/user/mbstudepagetwo

casey
04-13-2006, 04:23 PM
When I replaced the nylon rollers in the driver's door on my '64 Lark type it made a huge difference. The window would almost roll itself up. Now I always replace those on every Stude if I can find them. :)

Scott
04-13-2006, 06:58 PM
While we're on this topic is there a good way to build up the splines the handle attaches to? My 66 Cruiser's front right door has a good regulator, but I can't get the crank to stay on it, even with the clip, and most of the time it grinds the splines while I turn it, but won't move the window. My knuckle is still healing from the other day when the handle slipped and my knuckle met the nice sharp corner of the metal hawk emblem on the door panel :(

Oh, and yes, I've tried other window cranks - same result.

Roscomacaw
04-13-2006, 08:36 PM
Scott, my approach to that problem would be to scavenge another regulator for that shaft/gear unit. There's really no way to rebuild those splines. Not to where it would be more economical than just changing it out![}:)]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Frank Starr
04-14-2006, 03:53 PM
Nate -

I got the metal channel for the right side of my 55 C brand new from Stephan Allen just a couple weeks ago. Dunno if he has the LHS - or maybe they're the same (don't have my body parts book at the office). Various folks have the rubber piece. If SA doesn't have one, try Jon Myers. That guy has an amazing repertoire.

Frank Starr

StudeRich
04-16-2006, 01:48 AM
Jim; I would love to know how you did that,(replace the rollers on your 63L body front door regulators) because page 150, plate 21-38 in the '59-'64 Body Parts Catalog clearly shows that there are NO plastic rollers in there. The 2120-68-1 (1350837 for '63 & 1358040 for '64's) are only used on sedans & wagons (F,Y & P bodies)!![:0]
It appears to me that the pins they go on and the slots they run on would be the wrong size for them to fit!
Rich.



quote:Originally posted by PalmerGA

Long time getting back on this, but thought I'd update my regulator problem. I finally got the passenger side regulator out and yes... is did require removing all of the fasteners on the vent window to be able to shift it enough to get clearance to pull the regulator.

Anyway, when I remover the regulator it looked fine. gear teeth all intact, etc. I put it in a vice and applied pressure to the bottom window guide (simulating window weight and then some). It cranked up and down perfectly. The apparent problem???? The plastic/nylon rollers were missing (disintegrated over time I guess). I replaced them, along with other clips, rollers, etc. and put it all back together. It works great!!!!! And all for about $15 in parts and a few hours of labor.

I hope the driver's side will go so well.

More later!!!

Jim's pride....
1963 Daytona Convertible


StudeRich
Ferndale, WA

StudeRich
04-16-2006, 02:06 AM
Matt: the window regulators, picture view #2120-65 part #1327430 & 431 for 1959-61 J&L bodies, are different than 1343354 & 355 for '62 & '63 J&L. But also you may need the 2120-67-2 (1343352 & 353) Idler, with Arms, Link and Bracket. They are peculiar to J & L only, as shown on Pg. 150 plate 21-38 of the '59-'64 Body Parts Catalog. They are also different than '59-'61, but same as '62. Hope this helps, Rich.

[quote]Originally posted by mbstude

Will the regulators from a 60 Lark HT fit my 63 Lark HT? If so, I got a set in a parts car. (Well, not me, a friend of mine who said I can have em if I wanted them).

Matthew Burnette

StudeRich
Ferndale, WA