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View Full Version : (For Sale) Studebaker V8 AFB 4bbl Manifolds



DEEPNHOCK
03-29-2005, 11:00 AM
Forum Special Promotion:
(This is Studebaker specific spam, so toss it out if you don't want to read
spam....)
(This is a good way to save a few bucks, and we know how Stude types like to
watch their money)

Want to easily improve the performance of your Studebaker V8 engine?

Install one of these manifolds and add an AFB carb (Jeg's/Summit, AutoZone,
etc.) and away you go.

A 500 cfm electric choke AFB is recommended for 259 V8, and stock 289
Studebaker V8 engines. Carter (Federal-Mogul) p/n 9504, or Edelbrock p/n#
1403.

For modified Studebaker 289 V8 engines that have a hotter cam or performance
work you can go with a 600CFM AFB. There are three choices here. Edelbrock
p/n# 1400 (600 cfm jetted for economy), Edelbrock p/n# 1406 (600 cfm jetted
for good street performance), or a Carter (Federal-Mogul) p/n#9635 (625cfm
electric choke). All are electric choke versions. You will need to convert
to the electric choke to keep from having linkage interference with the
choke tubes and the secondary throttle linkage.

This is a less expensive alternative to finding a WCFB 4bbl manifold and
modifying it, not to mention the expense of finding a good WCFB core and
having it rebuilt.

These manifolds have been modified to accept an AFB carb without
interference between the secondary butterflies. No need to run that thick
heat insulator to clear the openings. ( but you still can run the heat
insulator gasket to gain the heat insulating benefits). The stacked heat
insulator gasket is a Mr. Gasket p/n# 97, or an Edelbrock p/n# 9266.

Besides milling the carb mount surface flat, the intake plenum to manifold
runner radius has been rounded off and smoothed to improve airflow. The
plenum inlet has been milled to the larger throttle bore profile, and the
profile has been machined all the way down to the plenum floor (to decrease
turbulence and enhance airflow). The carb mount stud holes are all drilled
in the milling jig to assure the studs are straight and square. The intake
runners have been port matched to the stock Studebaker steel intake gasket,
so this manifold will flow better than stock, even on stock heads. The
casting flash on the outside of the manifold has been ground off for
cosmetics, and the manifolds have been bead blasted. The outside of each
manifold has been painted (black or silver), and the intake runners and
plenum have been sprayed with clearcoat to prevent new rust.

More pictures of the manufacturing process can be viewed at:
http://community.webshots.com/album/169539546yHBuvB

No studs are provided, as the length may vary due to your choice of adapter,
riser, or gasket package. Stud kits are available from Mr. Gasket (p/n# 50
for 1&3/8" studs or p/n# 60 for 1&1/2" Studs), or from Edelbrock ( p/n# 8008
for 1&3/8" studs. or p/n# 8024 for 1&1/2" studs))

Shipping will be UPS. Weight of manifold is 27 pounds, so with packaging it
will be right at 33 pounds. UPS from Florida to Seattle was $30.. Missouri
was $22. You can figure your freight accordingly. I will figure it exactly
on completion of transaction for you. $5 packaging to make sure the cast
iron manifold isn't crushed and pulverized by shipping gorillas and arrives
to your doorstep in one big piece, like it is supposed to. No surprises.

THIS IS AN EXCHANGE PRICE AND A LATE STUDEBAKER 2BBL CORE IS REQUIRED.
You will have to send me a 2bbl manifold (late model) to qualify for this
price. PLEASE, don't send me a greasy slimy core. Dirty is OK, slimy isn't
OK.

Graduated discount for 2bbl cores. The exchange price for a modified
manifold is $99.95. If you have extra cores, I will extend a $10 per
manifold discount toward your purchase. So, if you sent me 10 manifold
cores, yours will be FREE. Will also purchase manifold cores outright for $5
each. Would pay more, but freight is a deal killer. Will consider pick up of
cores if logistics can be worked out.

If you want to buy a manifold outright, you can purchase this same manifold
outright f

64Avanti
03-29-2005, 09:20 PM
This is good and easy way to install a 4 bl carb. I first did this myself when I was 15. I was rebuilding my Dad's 60 Hawk engine and installed an R1/R2 cam and modified the manifold to accept an AFB that came from an early 60's Buick. I actualy did all of the work by grinding, filing and using a drill press to drill new stud holes and the new holes(with a hole saw) for the 4 bl. I probably spent 4 or 5 hours to do it by hand but it didn't cost anything. The $99 price is quite reasonable.

David L