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newtostude17
03-27-2005, 10:25 PM
i have a 42 commander that i just bought and i have to restore just about everything. right now im trying to remove the rear axle but i cant quite seem to get the drum off. ive rented a wheel pulller that seems to fit and work but i can get it to turn only so far and then it wont budge. i dont know what to do now. can some one please help me and lead me in the right direction

Sonny
03-27-2005, 11:20 PM
Welcome to the Studebaker forums "newtostude17" Can I assume that you're 17 years old? If so, I'm Really happy that you're into Studebakers!

As for that rear hub/drum assembly, it's not uncommon form the tapered axles. The puller that you need usually has three heavy "legs" that are helg on the drum assembly by the lug nuts. It has a long, fine thread "bolt" through the middle, and usually has a heavy set of "hammer ears" that fit onto the end of the long bolt.

First and foremost, do you have a service manual for your car? If not, I strongly recommend that you get one ASAP. It has very important information in it that you'll need to service and/or rebuild your car. It also has the hub removal procedure in depth.

Basically, you remove the cotter pin and axle nut, turn the axle nut over and screw it back onto the axle until, the end of the nut is even with the threads of the axle, attach the legs of the puller to the wheel studs, tighten the long bolt of the puller down until it contacts the end of the axle, the using a nice long breaker bar, keep turning the bolt on the puller to the right until the hub pops off.

HOWEVER, it seem s that they never just pop right off. Make sure that the emergency brake is off, and I like to take one of those big rubber, "dead-blow" hammers and really whack the edges of the drum, (all the way around) before I even try to screw the bolt down on the puller. Then, as I screw the puller bolt in, I whack both sides of the drum with the dead-blow. If you screw the bolt down until it seems like the puller is gonna bust and it still won't come off, you might have to use heat, and that's another subject.

Be advised that it usually seems like something is gonna break before the hub pops off, keep tightening the bolt down, BUT be very careful when you're standing right in front of the whole mess with the puller bolt tightened down.

Please keep us updated on how it goes.

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

Roscomacaw
03-28-2005, 01:22 AM
17,

We just had a discussion about brake drum removal. Look back on about page 2 of older topics here and read the discussion. I believe this will help you some. The topic is titled: "Brake Drums Again" and was intiated by a poster who goes my the name "Chrysleritis"[:I]

Miscreant at large.

chrysleritis
03-28-2005, 02:32 PM
Hey, it's me again, and I _still_ haven't got the &*#$%^! things off.
Unbelievable. I'm no 90 pound weakling... I've done other brake drums...
I'm a reasonable man... But I'm considering giving up and pulling
the whole rear end off.

I released the e-brake cable, (shoving the cable back into the drum a bit
to free up the shoes) even disconnected the brake line at the
wheel cylinder on the rear drums to try to release any sticking of the drum.
The drum will turn relatively freely. Too freely, in fact. It's tough to get
the center puller screw tightened down really #@@*#$&^ tight, though, without
the wheel spinning... I set the e-brake, tighten the center screw with the biggest
wrench I've got, release the e-brake, and then whack on the center screw with
the biggest (3 lb) hammer I've got. No dice. Remove the puller to try to re-set it
tighter. Lug nuts tightened all the way down, so the puller is flush to the drum.
Whack more. Wife thinks I'm nuts. I think I'm nuts.

I've tried first setting the center screw to contact the end of the axle with maybe
1/4" left on the wheel lug nuts. Then tighten the lug nuts down with an impact
wrench to get the puller really tight, then whack the center screw. Whew.
Man.

In the meantime, I've been cleaning the engine compartment up front. When frustrated,
nothing improves your mood more than cleaning and polishing something. At least
you've accomplished something.

Newtostude17: get a really big puller. A good one.

Transtar60
03-28-2005, 04:06 PM
Chrylseritis
I think you need a bigger hammer(10lb sledge) or better puller. I had a J.C Whitney one that wouldnt do a darn thing. Then I got one from Ted Harbit that pulled it right off.

DEEPNHOCK
03-28-2005, 04:50 PM
Are you using a puller that looks like this?
http://community.webshots.com/photo/273962377/307752436dWsLDy
If so, then make sure of the following items.
All 3 arms are on ans tightened snug with lug nuts.
Axle nut is installer backwards and flush with end the threaded axle end (or you may mushroom out the axle end itself and mork up the threads).
You should not have to crank so hard that the vehicle moves (wheel rotates).
The puller has two 'anvils' in it that you take your big hammer and whack the anvils tighter.
When they are good and tight...whack it one more time.
Then...(and be careful here..) take that big (7 to 10 pound) hammer and hit the end of the puller....hard.
Repeat this if neccesary.
Now, if it does not pop loose.. Leave it alone a while.
I have had them pop loose several hours later.
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by chrysleritis

Hey, it's me again, and I _still_ haven't got the &*#$%^! things off.
Unbelievable. I'm no 90 pound weakling... I've done other brake drums...
I'm a reasonable man... But I'm considering giving up and pulling
the whole rear end off.

I released the e-brake cable, (shoving the cable back into the drum a bit
to free up the shoes) even disconnected the brake line at the
wheel cylinder on the rear drums to try to release any sticking of the drum.
The drum will turn relatively freely. Too freely, in fact. It's tough to get
the center puller screw tightened down really #@@*#$&^ tight, though, without
the wheel spinning... I set the e-brake, tighten the center screw with the biggest
wrench I've got, release the e-brake, and then whack on the center screw with
the biggest (3 lb) hammer I've got. No dice. Remove the puller to try to re-set it
tighter. Lug nuts tightened all the way down, so the puller is flush to the drum.
Whack more. Wife thinks I'm nuts. I think I'm nuts.

I've tried first setting the center screw to contact the end of the axle with maybe
1/4" left on the wheel lug nuts. Then tighten the lug nuts down with an impact
wrench to get the puller really tight, then whack the center screw. Whew.
Man.

In the meantime, I've been cleaning the engine compartment up front. When frustrated,
nothing improves your mood more than cleaning and polishing something. At least
you've accomplished something.

Newtostude17: get a really big puller. A good one.



DEEPNHOCK@worldnet.att.net
'61 Hawk
'37 Coupe Express
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

chrysleritis
03-28-2005, 06:55 PM
I'm using a Studebaker puller discussed on: (sorry about the long URL)

https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/parts/agora.cgi?&cart_id=Qg1BhW.a7209*eP6yBL&page=wheelpuller.html

With the 1950-51 Champions, the lug nut pattern is four holes on a 4" diameter circle. The three-arm universal puller that DEEPNHOCK posted a link to -- I've got one of those, (use it on my '41 chrysler... five bolt pattern, about a 6 or 7" diameter) tried it without much success. It doesn't quite fit right, because the lug stud diameter on the '50 Champ is so small. The puller arms don't really seat on to the lug studs well -- you can't get the arms bolted all the way down to the drum face. So when you crank down on the center screw, you wind up pulling off-center and it makes a mess of it. The Stude puller I've borrowed fits right over the lug studs, and you put the nuts on and then tighten the center screw. What can I say? Ugh.

gotti210
03-28-2005, 10:31 PM
ok guys i had the very same prob with my 50 but come to find out later that my shoes were all messed up from a leaky wheel clynder

so what i may suggust cause it worked on a friends 50

get you a good ol can o wd-40 and drown the insides of the drum anything u can reach with that silly lil red stick
along with the axle - hub and drum assembly were it all meets under your axle nut

wait about thrity mins to an hour smack it a couple of times and have at it with the puller

the gurus will tell you not to try this cause it will damage the shoes but hey your probably gonna replace em anyways

hey it just something i tryed as a last resort and it worked wonders so good luck

Roscomacaw
03-29-2005, 09:19 AM
Chrysleritis - Studebaker last used the 4-lug pattern in 1950. 1951 saw the debut of the 4&1/2 on 5 pattern that was used on all Stude cars thereafter;) Stude 1/2ton trucks used a 5 on 5 pattern, BTW.:D

Miscreant at large.

Sonny
03-29-2005, 02:52 PM
quote:Originally posted by chrysleritis

Hey, it's me again, and I _still_ haven't got the &*#$%^! things off. <SNIP>


Have you tried to whack the sides of the drum with a big dead-blow hammer with pressure on the puller? I use a long bar in between the puller legs to hold the drum from turning. Do not be afraid to use heat. Take your time, heat JUST the hub, (the very center section), evenly, all the way around. You don't want it cherry red, but you Do want to see a dull red color. It WILL come off that way or you have something radically wrong.

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

Sonny
03-29-2005, 02:56 PM
quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

Are you using a puller that looks like this?
<SNIPPER>


[:I]AND turning the castle nut over?[:I]:D

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

Sonny
03-29-2005, 03:03 PM
quote:Originally posted by gotti210

ok guys i had the very same prob with my 50 but come to find out later that my shoes were all messed up from a leaky wheel clynder

so what i may suggust cause it worked on a friends 50

get you a good ol can o wd-40 and drown the insides of the drum anything u can reach with that silly lil red stick
along with the axle - hub and drum assembly were it all meets under your axle nut

wait about thrity mins to an hour smack it a couple of times and have at it with the puller

the gurus will tell you not to try this cause it will damage the shoes but hey your probably gonna replace em anyways

hey it just something i tryed as a last resort and it worked wonders so good luck


You bring up some good points. I do whatever it takes to get 'em off, including all the penetrating oil and heat I can get. I've found that emergency brakes left on, leaking wheel cylinders, worn drums, seized brake parts, adjusted incorrectly, sitting in water, etc, ALL or any combination thereof, have caused me great pain getting these things apart. Bottom line, I've also burned the drum off in a circle around the hub, saving it, found better drums and still was happy. I say, just do what ya gotti, 'er, gotta do to get 'em off! ;)[:o)]:D

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

gotti210
03-29-2005, 05:36 PM
I like that one sonny [8D]

Sonny
03-29-2005, 08:49 PM
quote:Originally posted by gotti210

I like that one sonny [8D]


Thanks, I figured that ya might. ;) I just hope he gets that damned hub off! You're right, do what ever it takes, clean up/fix up later.

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

gotti210
03-30-2005, 08:50 PM
YEAH IN THE PAST YEAR IVE OWNED MY STUD IVE RUN ACROSS ALOT OF THAT BUT HEY I ALWAYS SEEM TO FALL INTO IT BUT COME OUT LIKE A ROSE

OH HEY SONNY YOU READY FOR SOME MORE PICS IVE GOTTEN MY DOOR PANELS AND REAR PANELS BACK FROM THE UPHOLSRY SHOP AND GOTTEN THAT S-10 REAREND IN AND MY WELD WHEELS ON
BEEN DRIVIN ALL OVER THE NEIBORHOOD WITH NO PLATES OR INSPECTION YET [8D]

ALSO DROP ME THE NAME OF YOUR WEB SITE I KEEP FORGETTING IT

(guess i should write it down huh:D)
you can reach me at XLONESTARENTX@AOL.COM

52hawk
03-31-2005, 08:17 PM
I don't remember the details,but I read a tip about these drums-tighten the puller real tight,With the tires and wheels on the car,set the car down,and rock it sideways like crazy[using the weight of the car to do the work]leave a nut on the axle loosely so the hub doesn't pop off and drop the car to the ground!