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11SecAvanti
03-26-2005, 09:33 AM
I have a V-8 block that I am in the process of cleaning up and planning on using. The cast number is 535601 and the other number is VI549I. An inside main web is cast with the number 10 There is no side oil filter mount. Clean up shows gold paint but base primer is a very dark red or burgoney color and base paint is a very dark green or blue. I have had this block for 20 plus years and got it out of a 61 Hardtop circle track Lark. When I pulled the cam it was an R-1. Just checked the bore this week and got 3.680." Glad I kept it after all these years and hope to fire it again down the road. Is it a 61 block or ????

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Transtar60
03-26-2005, 11:16 AM
V I549I (or V 15491) should be a 1952 232 cid block according to the serial # list or it should be except for the missing digit. The serial # should have six digits.

11SecAvanti
03-26-2005, 08:05 PM
I left out a digit by mistake. The complete number is V5I549I. The letter is stamped more like an "I" than a number 1. Finished cleaning it today and bad news is I found a hairline crack on outside wall about 1 inch above the center freeze plug. It runs a good 3.5 inches. Looks like a water freeze crack perhaps but all the freeze plugs are ok and seated. Rechecked all the cylinder walls and they are fine. What is the best method to fix this? Welding ????, block sealer ????. Ruined my day when I saw that crack.
Got the rear drain plugs out and the inside had no corrude and the drain plug threads looked deep and NOS. No build up crude whatsover. Can it still be saved?

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N8N
03-26-2005, 08:14 PM
sorry to hear about your block but the good news is that number is a '61 259 not an early 232. whether or not it can be saved I don't know. the "I" is a "1." Don't know why they did that, but that's typical for both Stude engine nos. and serial nos. as well.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
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whacker
03-26-2005, 10:51 PM
Your block is toast. Blocks are not that rare, I've got a couple. Shipping is what will kill you on a block. Find a replacement locally and you should be fine. The early 232 blocks are the most accurate, but they have the early lifters, and should be sleeved down to fit Chevy solid lifter size. Otherwise they wear the cam lobs pretty fast. Your best bet is a 1955-1960 block, cast before the molds got too worn. People seem to want the later full-flow blocks from the last few years, but those need to be carefully checked, as by that time the molds were badly worn, and Studebaker didn't have the budget to remake them. If you can find a good one, these are highly prized. Most any block is good for a standard rebuild, but if you want power, check around for a good one. Look for thick cylinder walls and bores that are evenly spaced and square with the crank. It sounds like you already have the cam.

buddymander
03-26-2005, 11:46 PM
I've seen longer cracks than that repaired. They dust iron powder on the crack and magnetize it under a blacklight, to see where the crack actually ends. Then they drill holes along the crack and drive rod into the holes. Check your local machine shop.

Roscomacaw
03-27-2005, 09:37 AM
Years ago, I had an AC Bristol roadster. In the course of redoing it, I discovered a LONG crack down one side of the engine block. As buddy spelled out, I had the crack "cold welded" by a shop that specialized in repairing engine components for oceangoing vessels. The fix worked well although it was a bit pricey at the time.[^]

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whacker
03-27-2005, 09:43 AM
Yes, the block can be repaired. The best way is by brazing or silver soldering after drilling the ends of the crack so it doesn't spread. Find an old welder who knows how to preheat cast iron properly. The cost and effort will be more than a replacement block would cost. Usually this is only done in the case where the original block adds some value to the car, or where a replacement block isn't available. Getting a new block is cheaper and easier than repair. As long as the crack doesn't go into the chamber area, you would be OK.

11SecAvanti
03-27-2005, 11:34 AM
Ok, thanks for the input guidance. I will check on local repair costs and then make a decission.

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