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Studenut65
03-24-2005, 08:36 AM
Hi all,
I have a 1965 Stude Lark V8 Commander. It has the climatizer/heater option that works great and heats the car very well. Anyhow, when I turn on the heater motor, especially in low, I hear a whine that sounds like a bearing is out. If I turn it on high it goes away. My question is if I drop the motor and open it up, is there a bearing in there that I can grease or is it sealed? Will the motor have to be replaced if it is sealed? Thanks guys for any advice.

Nate

N8N
03-24-2005, 09:16 AM
There are no bearings in that motor, they are oilite bushings and IME they tend to dry out over the years. What you need to do is to drop the motor out of the housing - separate the halves of the housing by removing the little screws and then remove the housing with the motor from the car. This is actually easier said than done, the shop manual tells you to drain the cooling system and remove the whole assembly from the car, it can be done without doing that but you may have to loosen the whole housing from the cowl and also unmount the heater control valve from the dashboard.

Once you have the lower housing and motor free from the car, remove the "squirrel cage" from the motor - you will need a small allen wrench to do that. Once the set screw is loose it should just slide off the shaft but some gentle persuasion may be required. that will expose two nuts that hold the motor to the housing. remove those, then remove the motor. Then you will see two more nuts that hold the halves of the motor together. You need to remove those and remove the through-bolts and separate the halves of the motor. Use lots of penetrating oil here! Likely what has happened is that the armature of the motor has seized to one of the oilite bushings, you need to *carefully* free it. Again, lots of penetrating oil and *gentle* tapping with a small hammer. Do *NOT* try to force it out as you will pop the bushing out of the housing (there's one in each half) and there is no way to reinstall it - the retainers are spring steel and pressed in place.

Once the armature is free clean it up and remove any rust on the shafts with a Scotchbrite pad, and also brighten the commutator and undercut it if required. Take an oil can and oil up the bushings and the felt around them, and reassemble. From this point reassembly is the reverse, etc. (BTDT, it's a PITA but at least my blowers are all quiet and smooth.)

good luck,

nate

By the way, if anyone has an early Hawk under-the-fender blower, I need it for my '55 project (I'm running 12V so I can't use the stock blower.) The reason I can give such detailed instructions is I've already changed the blower on my '62 as well as the defrost motor on the '55 :)



--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Studenut65
03-24-2005, 09:52 AM
Nate
Thanks for the detailed steps to fix my heater motor. Looks like I have a project ahead of me for this weekend. I will go ahead and if I have any questions Ill post them. Thanks again for the help.

Nate

gordr
03-24-2005, 10:27 AM
Nate gave you great instructions for removing the motor, but honestly, I have to tell you that I have tried lubricating those motors with only limited success. A "stuck" motor, once freed up, may give years of service, but if the motor runs, and makes that screaming dry bearing noise, it means one of the bushings has worn out oversize, and the shaft is chattering in the bushing. A shot of oil will only temporarily silence it.

You will have to replace the motor. I can't tell you which "generic" motor will replace it, but I expect there is one.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

N8N
03-24-2005, 01:58 PM
I've had decent luck with ones that are seized up just because they haven't run in 20+ years. I guess "Studenut65" will just have to find out what he's got...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Roscomacaw
03-24-2005, 03:30 PM
My Trantstar's heater motor squealed like that when I first got the truck. Since reassemling that motor's a REAL PAIN IN THE POSTERIOR - I simply lubed the shaft end using a oil can with an extendable spout (3in1 Oil makes a plastic oiler with a nifty pull-out tube for reaching hard-to-get-to spots). This way I don't have to fight to get that rusted-on, and easily bent, blower wheel off the shaft!
Then for the other end, I took a tiny drill bit (1/32nd" or so) and drilled a hole into the "dome" on the other end of the motor. The hole don't have to be perfectly centered - it's not critical. I then squeezed some 3-in-1 into that hole and worked the motor shaft around a bit with the domed end of the motor upright (to insure the oil runs into the bushing inside.
Be sure to test run the motor before you go thru all the reinstallation of it! See if it still squeaks. A new motor can be had thru NAPA. Their # 655-1025 seems to fit good. I think it's pretty resonably priced too.:D

Miscreant at large.

Studenut65
03-24-2005, 03:51 PM
Thanks guys. Like I said, this weekend I will try and get to working on the Stude. I think Ill try and fix first, if that doesn't work, my next step will be replacing it. Thanks for the expertiese.

Nate

studegary
03-25-2005, 03:42 PM
Thanks, Bob/Mr. Biggs. I am glad to find out that I am not the only one that drills a small hole in the case to lubricate those bushings.

Roscomacaw
03-25-2005, 09:01 PM
Yeah - fighting those damned brushes during reassembly is just too frustrating. I've done it - I know how - but if a drop of oil will cure things, I like easy! ;)

Miscreant at large.

gordr
03-26-2005, 02:59 AM
You can add my name to the list of those who drill holes in the dome over the bearing to get oil in 'em.

Nevertheless, I've found that if the bearing is badly worn, oil is only a temporary fix, and before long, it'll be squealing again. I think what happens is the shaft starts rolling around the I.D. of the bushing, instead of spinning on its axis.

I should go out and drill holes to oil them BEFORE they get worn, I guess.;)

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

65cruiser
03-30-2005, 05:33 PM
Studebaker International sells the replacement blower for $94.00. Mine has one.



----------------
Mark Anderson
http://home.alltel.net/anderm
1965 Studebaker Cruiser