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View Full Version : Need some advice & help 1949 2R10



rmottar
03-11-2005, 12:35 PM
Hello Everyone,
Well, I finally bought one. It is a 1949 2R10 from what the plate says. Engine 1R-20416.
I guess I have a ton of questions.
Any help is appreciated. I sure do like the look of these.

1) Is this considered a 3/4 ton?
2) Where can I buy the brake tool?
3) Are they better left as stock as possible or are some newer components ok? (12 volt, gauages, etc)
4) Is there any way to find the paint name by the code? P-2204?
5) Any way to find trim information? Trim # 1-6033
6) Can a "normal" machine shop rebuild these engines without issues? Any secrets?
7) It has some small rust holes, what does everyone recommend for repair of these? Fiberglass?

Again, any help is appreciated. I don't want to reinvent the wheel if I can learn from the pros.

Roscomacaw
03-11-2005, 01:21 PM
Yes, it's a 3/4ton truck with a 170 cu.in. flathead 6 engine. We commonly refer to this powerplant as a "Champion 6" because it debuted with the introduction of the Champion line of cars in 1939.
What "brake tool" are you referring to? [?]

Very easy to restore this truck to stock. A 6volt system is adequate just as it was when new. Proper attention to the condition of the components involved is key to it working right. You can GO to 12volts if you want to have a late-model radio or other 12volt items. I sincerely doubt you'd wanna try to hang A/C on that little 170 tho!
Does this truck have 3spd & Overdrive or is it a 4spd? That's gonna make a big difference as to it's fun-to-drive factor in the end.;)

There were only 6 colors available at the time. What sorta color is yours. I don't have the codes at my reference but we can probably come up with a name if you say it's blue or red or tan and such.[:I]

Interior - again, I have no codes to refer to. I'm sure someone does tho.[|)]

A machine shop CAN put this together if they're willing to accept a few tips that are sorta peculiar to Stude engines. Alot of shops might refuse to tackle something they consider "weird" just because they don't wanna hafta stand behind it if something goes awry.
I'll bet YOU could do the final assembly yourself with a bit of coaching from us here! Lotta pride in hearing that baby come to life after you assembled it from a bunch of bits and pieces![^]

Miscreant at large.

rmottar
03-11-2005, 01:34 PM
I have a paint code number of p-2204
I also have some basic pics at http://photos.yahoo.com/rallilee
My brother and I are pretty handy with mechanics, is there somewhere on the web we can buy the rebuild kit?

rmottar
03-11-2005, 01:37 PM
Oh yeah, the brake tool. I am told these disk brakes are on a tapered shaft and it requires a special tool to pull the drums off or they will break. Does that sound right[?]

62champ
03-11-2005, 01:58 PM
You are refering to a drum puller. It attaches to three or more of the lug nuts and removes the drum from the axle shaft. (Be sure to check if the lugs are left or right hand threads - had a friend break a few lug nuts by twisting the wrong way...) Before long, auto companies decided it would be easier to not attach the hub and drum - makes maintenance much quicker.

Definately need that puller and a shop manual would be great so you can read/see how Studebaker did it. Places like this are a great resource as well.

Truck looks pretty good. Nice that it has both front and rear bumper, and chrome non-the-less.

Good luck.

My 7E7 - Restored by my Uncle Denson in 1995
http://www.georgetown.txed.net/faculty/tippit/fuchs/Champ.jpg

Transtar60
03-11-2005, 04:02 PM
http://www.mytoolstore.com/otc/7394.html
I believe that is the brake tool you are referring to. Some Stude vendors carry them. KD used to have them listed but now I cant find it.
Do not get the JC Whitney version. Been there tried that, its just not sturdy enough.
When you do get the tool, make sure to remove the center nut and reverse and reinstall it partially . This is so that when the drum "pops" loose it and the tool doesnt go flying across the room.

Roscomacaw
03-13-2005, 01:14 PM
Charlie. Are you saying that a '49 3/4ton truck has tapered axles??? That "special tool" is for 1/2tons only (and Stude cars of course)[:0]

rmottar - the only "disk" brakes on a Stude truck were where some had a disk on the drive shaft as a parking brake. Stude trucks all used drum brakes right thru til the very last ones built.
I have Disc brakes on the front of my '57 1/2ton but they're an aftermarket setup from Turner Brakes.;)

Miscreant at large.

Roscomacaw
03-13-2005, 01:31 PM
rmottar, having looked at the photos of your truck, it looks like Iriquois Blue to me. Of course, photos can be misleading.;)

Miscreant at large.

Transtar60
03-13-2005, 05:05 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Charlie. Are you saying that a '49 3/4ton truck has tapered axles??? That "special tool" is for 1/2tons only (and Stude cars of course)[:0]

snip


Nope wasnt watching what I wrote carefully. The special tool is of course only needed for those cars and half tons with tapered axles.
The only taper he should run into is the dowels around the bolts holding the axle to the hub.

This assumes he has the original axle, which is likely based on his question about wheels.

rmottar
03-13-2005, 10:08 PM
Sorry guys, the "disk" word was a typo...it is drums all the way around. Thanks for the heads up on the 1/2 ton stuff. I was misinformed about it. I thought it was ALL Stude Trucks...that should make the brakes a little easier. I still can't find any rims to replace the split rims tho...nothing seems to match up with the 6 bolt, 7.25" wheels....bummer, I was hoping for a cheap solution to that one.