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Rekabeduts
01-15-2005, 02:17 PM
Now that my GT Hawk is running again after sitting for a couple of months with what turned out to be something related to the ground wire, the brake lights are not working. They've always been a little iffy, in that light brake pedal pressure would not make them come on...but pressing hard would. The brakes themselves work okay ( have dual Turner dual master cylinder conversion installed about 2 years ago). I have a friend who is an electrical engineer and has re-built his own 53 coupe, who tested it, and we were able to get the brake lights to come on by by-passing the brake switch, but we did not remove it. We're thinking it may be the brake light switch, which is about 3 years old. Here's my question: If I remove the existing brake light switch and re-install it, and/or order a new switch, will the brakes need to be bled[?] Bleeding brakes is one thing I've never tried myself yet, and the brake fluid is accessed through the driver's side floorboard, a pita. I can take it into a shop if I need to, but trying to avoid it if possible. Any tips for trying to make the switch work without removing it? As to any relationship between my ground-wire starting problem and the brake light, I don't know if there is one, but I've wondered. Thanks!
Hank[V]

DEEPNHOCK
01-15-2005, 02:37 PM
Yes, you 'should' bleed your brakes after installing a new switch....
But I have swapped switches with a little help and have gotten away without bleeding them.
Here's what i did...
I got my better half to set in the car....
I removed the wires and loosened the switch without removing it.
Then, when I had the other switch in one hand, I had the better half s l o w l e y step on the brake pedal. I quickly unscrewed the switch and srewed the other on in. I told her NOT to let up on the pedal until I said it was ok. I snugged the new switch in and then let up on the pedal. Was a bit messy, but it worked OK...

Now, about your switch... There's a newer switch that Ron Francis Wireworks sells that is (a) synthetic brake fluid compatible, and (b) has a lower psi threshold to close the circuit (turn the brake lights on... (P/N SW32 $19.95 http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort~2 )

You could always just install a mechanical switch in place of the hydraulic switch and 'abandon in place' the original switch. As long as it does not leak, you'd be ok. I know a lot of people who have retrofitted mechanical switches...
Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]





quote:Originally posted by Rekabeduts

Now that my GT Hawk is running again after sitting for a couple of months with what turned out to be something related to the ground wire, the brake lights are not working. They've always been a little iffy, in that light brake pedal pressure would not make them come on...but pressing hard would. The brakes themselves work okay ( have dual Turner dual master cylinder conversion installed about 2 years ago). I have a friend who is an electrical engineer and has re-built his own 53 coupe, who tested it, and we were able to get the brake lights to come on by by-passing the brake switch, but we did not remove it. We're thinking it may be the brake light switch, which is about 3 years old. Here's my question: If I remove the existing brake light switch and re-install it, and/or order a new switch, will the brakes need to be bled[?] Bleeding brakes is one thing I've never tried myself yet, and the brake fluid is accessed through the driver's side floorboard, a pita. I can take it into a shop if I need to, but trying to avoid it if possible. Any tips for trying to make the switch work without removing it? As to any relationship between my ground-wire starting problem and the brake light, I don't know if there is one, but I've wondered. Thanks!
Hank[V]


DEEPNHOCK@worldnet.att.net
'61 Hawk
'37 Coupe Express
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

Rekabeduts
01-17-2005, 07:36 PM
Thanks for the tip. Sounds like something my own better half and I could do. Guess I'd better have some rags ready. Is there something about the hydralic-type switch that fails after a couple of years with "new" synthetic brake fluid? To be honest, I'm not sure exactly what type of brake fluid it has....the resto shop I've used for some things did the brake conversion two years ago, and they put the brake fluid in.....could part of my problem be low brake fluid, causing the switch to not work? Is there any particular type of brake fluid recommended for the Turner dual-master conversion.

Thanks Again,

Hank

GTtim
01-17-2005, 08:17 PM
Hank,
Check with the installer of the brake conversion kit to see what type of brake fluid they put in. Also remember that the usual DOT3 or 4 brake fluid is an excellent paint remover. I doubt that low fluid is causing the switch to not work. You would notice low fluid when braking before the switch would be affected.
Tim