PDA

View Full Version : Crank hub installer



dclewallen
08-26-2006, 06:32 PM
Does anyone have a detailed drawing of a crank hub installer. I'd like to make one and have it ready when it comes time to assemble my 232 gone 289 engine? Thanks for any help,

Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

ROADRACELARK
08-26-2006, 07:16 PM
Darryl,
Fairborne parts has them, I'm sure it's faster and cheaper to buy theirs. I boughe one from Ted Harbit (before he sold the business to Phil). I've used it many times...works great!:)
Dan Miller

Road Racers turn left AND right.

ROADRACELARK
08-26-2006, 07:18 PM
Darryl,
Dumb me[B)] I live about 30-40 minutes from you... You are welcome to borrow it..Let me know.;)
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

64V-K7
08-27-2006, 09:27 AM
Whassamatta with the slide it on the nose and tighten the bolt technique?

ROADRACELARK
08-27-2006, 09:45 AM
Even though it's a keyed shaft and hub, it is still an interference fit, therefore requiring an installation tool.(see shop manual) Installing in any other manner may damage the crank snout, the hub, and the bolt threads as well as the threads in the crank.
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

klifton1
08-27-2006, 12:26 PM
Warm the hub in an oven and it will slide right on.
Klif

55 Speedster
42 Champ Coupe

dclewallen
08-27-2006, 02:01 PM
Thanks for all the help. Dan, where in GA. are you located? When I get to the point of actually needing one I might take you up on your offer, thanks. I asked about the possibility of making one because I work in a machine shop and from what I've read thought it might not be too hard of a build. Then again I've never seen one up close to examine. And thanks Klif, Sounds like warming in an oven might also work [has with bearings and other stuff.

Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

dclewallen
08-27-2006, 02:40 PM
Is there a link on this site to prints of Studebaker tools?

Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

ROADRACELARK
08-27-2006, 03:17 PM
Kilf,
In some cases heating works very well, but here you would have to get that big thick hub (as opposed to a bearing race) pretty dad gum hot to expand it and I think you would risk damage to the seal, especially if it was converted to the lip type. Just my opinion. That may be why the shop manual dosen't offer that method.
Darryl,
There may be some, but those tools were customarly made by one of the specialty tool makers, ie Kent-Moore. The biggest obsticle is the diameter of the bolt...measure it and you'll see. I even had a fellow take a next size larger and re-thread it to the correct size...waste of time. The tool is worth the $s if you use it often. As for my location, I'm right over here off I-85, as I said, 30-40 minutes away. I'm in the roster. Hope this helps:)
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

Dwain G.
08-27-2006, 03:31 PM
There are machinist's drawings by Ingvar Vik for that tool and others in the June 1981 Turning Wheels.

http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/9GQ2.jpg
Dwain G.

Roscomacaw
08-27-2006, 03:31 PM
I've given thought to the heat method myself Klif, but as Dan says, the thought of damaging the lip seal has made me think otherwise. NOW - maybe if you're just trying to work out end play, it might make it easier, but once you put the timing cover on, you risk damaging the seal.[8]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

klifton1
08-27-2006, 05:57 PM
You get it warm, not HOT. I've done it several times, and it works vary well.
Klif

55 Speedster
42 Champ Coupe

dclewallen
08-28-2006, 04:32 PM
Thanks again for the help. As far as setting crank end play goes Chuck Lampman's new book has a trick using a piece of pipe about a half inch longer than the crank snout and a large flat washer. I plan on using this method for setting the end play. All replies are appreciated.

Darryl C. Lewallen Clarkesville, Ga.

shifter4
08-28-2006, 05:03 PM
What book is Chuck Lampmans ? I'm interested in the end play
idea.

sbca96
08-28-2006, 05:21 PM
I am embarrassed to say that I just used a hammer & tapped it on.[:I]
These days, with what I know about tools, I would use a brass hammer,
and not the regular hardened that I used back then. If you go around
the diameter of the part, it will go on. A simple tool would be a bolt
that threads into the crank, with a nut on the shaft, and a couple
large thick washers to spread the load. You tighten the bolt into the
crank end, then hold the bolt head, and tighten in the nut, pushing
the hub onto the crank, and the stress is on the threads on the bolt,
not taking the chance of stripping the crank snout.

Tom

N8N
08-28-2006, 06:45 PM
That's pretty much what an installer tool would be, just instead of flat washers it has a thrust bearing (like an upper kingpin bearing) to make it easier to press the balancer on. If you greased or oiled your flat washers that would work almost as well. The trick is finding a bolt and nut; the threads in the crank are not a standard thread (you'd pretty much have to have them custom made on a lathe, which is how I assume the installer tools are made.)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

ROADRACELARK
08-28-2006, 08:44 PM
By using the bolt, you're subjecting its threads to a lot of strain on a very small area. Nate is correct... the tool I have I use the thrust bearing under the nut...the bolt part of the tool threads all the way in the snout of the crank. Years ago I screwed up a perfectly good bolt trying to use it to install the hub.[xx(] As I said earlier, and Nate just reinterated, that bolt is of a VERY uncommon size. The one I had made didn't work too well...grade 8 metal dosen't fare too well unless you have a VERY high quality die. The tool is the way to go. Call me Darryl.:)
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

toolz
08-29-2006, 09:04 AM
Heating the hub will help alot heat your oven to 250 degrees and put the hub in for about 20 minutes you can leave it in longer if you want at 250 you wont hurt the metal it should slide right on as far as the seal goes 250 shouldnt hurt it especially if it is a newer lipseal just remember that when you pull the hub out of the oven the clock is ticking so have all tools ready and walk fast I do this every day so good luck and remember WALK FAST