PDA

View Full Version : conversion to an alternator ????



bradnree
08-25-2006, 10:51 PM
What steps are needed to convert from a generator system on my '60 Lark 259 to an alternator system ??? List of parts needed ???...thanks...brad

John Kirchhoff
08-26-2006, 12:07 AM
The easiest way is to use a GM Delco Remy alternator with internal regulator. Should be plenty of them at any salvage yard but you'll need to make a good stout bracket to hold it. Just off the top of my head I think there's three wires, a heavier output wire that ties into the the ammeter, a hot wire from the ignition terminal of the starter switch to excite the field and I think a ground. I'd have to look at my tractor to be sure.

whacker
08-26-2006, 12:09 AM
Well, you need an alternator and a mounting bracket. You may or may not need a new fan belt. You need to eliminate the voltage regulator if you use one of the self regulated alternators. Most people use the one-wire Delco, but a some say you are better off with one of the three wire setups, the Toyota and the Chrysler are recommended for these. Here is a link to the Toyota wiring diagram:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h8.pdf
I suggest you start here:
http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tech_alternator.asp

Dick Steinkamp
08-26-2006, 12:51 AM
quote:Originally posted by bradnree

What steps are needed to convert from a generator system on my '60 Lark 259 to an alternator system ??? List of parts needed ???...thanks...brad


What would be your purpose in doing this? I'm not trying to be a smartee, but a good working generator system does a fine job. If your current charging system isn't working correctly, the cheapest and easiest way out is to trouble shoot and fix what you have. An alternator system would only be needed (IMHO) if you have a much greater electrical load than the original car had, and/or if the car idles for extreamly long periods of time.

Just my 2 cents.



http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

CHAMP
08-26-2006, 07:45 AM
I agree with Dick. I have a generator on my 48 Champion and it works fine for my style of driving, However if I was doing a lot of around town driving at night( slower speeds) I might consider an alternator.:)

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

bradnree
08-26-2006, 07:58 AM
thanks for the input....brad

Transtar60
08-26-2006, 08:00 AM
Another good source of information is
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml
I used their kit on my 64 Champ installing an alternator off a 84 GMC diesel pickup.

Basically the theory they expound is that one wire alternators work well for stationary equipment such as irragation pumps and on tractors with limited or no accessories, like one or two work lights. The article explains in great detail one wire vs. three wire. Both are internally regulated but with differnt attributes.

5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28
4E2
59 Lark
etc

Studenut
08-26-2006, 02:27 PM
I haven't converted one of my Studebakers to an alternator yet, but we have a 1954 DeSoto (6 volt) that is driven mostly around town and also used some for parades. We had a lot of difficulty with dim headlights and battery running low. I installed a single wire alternator (6 volt positive gnd) and the problems were cured. I am very satisfied with the results. Because of the single wire system, when first started the engine has to be speeded up a little to make the alternator start charging, but after that it charges continuously, even at idle speed.

Jerry Buck
Racine, Wisconsin
'53 Champion Coupe - C (owned since 1956)
'61 Lark VI Convertible

Guido
08-26-2006, 09:34 PM
My '49 2R17A fire truck came equiped with a 6 volt alternator and electric wipers. I guess the theory was the truck would idle a lot and be pulling a heavy electric load with the lights, radio, etc.

Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

64V-K7
08-27-2006, 09:00 AM
I bought a single wire 6 volt,positive ground, alternator for my 55. To mount it, I removed the U-shaped bracket on the manifold, flipped it around, drilled the hole larger for the 3/8" alternator mount bolt. Installed the alternator, used washers to align the pulleys and used the same, old belt and adjustment arm.
Remove the old voltage regulator, isolate and tape up the field and armature leads, then connect the alternator, BAT terminal to the "B" wire that connected to your voltage regulator and you're "good to go" ....
you're ammeter might need to be upgraded, depending on that amperage the alternator puts out.

kamzack
08-28-2006, 02:06 AM
I installed a one wire alt. on my 60 Lark 8 6yrs ago. 10 gage wire runs from the only post on alt to seliniod switch. If you want to see if it's charging use must use a volt meter,not an amp gauge. Run the wire from alt to one post on volt meter,then from the other post back to selinoid.
I used a bracket off of Stude 8 alt. bracket modified to line up with pulley. Real simple. 35k miles and no problems. Did the same on a 57 Broadmoor. Reason, in traffic at idle, the generator couldn't produce enough power to keep sanden 508 comp.engaged and evaporator fan going ,so the comp. would kick out. Installed alt.,problem solved. Generator doesn't do much at idle. That's me 20 cents worth. Thanks for letting me share.
Kim

sbca96
08-28-2006, 02:19 AM
I swaped my 60 Hawk over to a 63 style alt, and then over to a Honda
alt when the 63 style case broke. The Studebaker alts tend to break
over the years - good luck finding a replacement. This swap uses the
63 style alt mounting bracket.

Tom

Here is a link to what I posted years ago on the Stude newsgroup :

http://patriot.net/~jonroq/Text/alternatorswap.txt

and the text :

Honda Alternator-
If anyone needs an altenator for your 63 to 64 Lark and Hawk, its the same
as Honda CVCC. Its about 30 bucks. It actually fits BETTER then stock, since
it has a sliding sleeve in the rear mount to keep from pinching the altenator
and braking the casing (anyone had this happen yet??) I can dig up the number
if anyone needs it .... it also looks simular to original.

The Honda one I mentioned is a direct bolt on with no needed modifications to
car or altenator. The wiring is easy also.

Ground wire to altenator chassis (there are a few bolts on back)

Power lead to power terminal

Field slip on connector to "F" terminal

There are two other terminals not used on a Studebaker. The Honda altenator
used a dual amp VR. So it had a high side and a low side. We are only
interested in the high side or 35 amp. Which is the "F" terminal.

Carquest part number RE 14184

OEM# 021000-5410 31100-657-024

76-79 Honda CVCC or Civic

Pictures :

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/honda_alt_swap/Honda_CVCC_Alt_4_Stude.008.jpg

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/honda_alt_swap/Honda_CVCC_Alt_4_Stude.007.jpg

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/honda_alt_swap/Honda_CVCC_Alt_4_Stude.009.jpg

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/honda_alt_swap/Honda_CVCC_Alt_4_Stude.010.jpg

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/honda_alt_swap/Honda_CVCC_Alt_4_Stude.004.jpg

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/honda_alt_swap/Honda_CVCC_Alt_4_Stude.002.jpg