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kpcoupe
02-24-2007, 08:51 PM
would it be ok to use 4130 steel for my floor boards or should i use something else?

ST2DE5
02-24-2007, 08:57 PM
I wouldn't think that would work very well trying to shape it. I have went to the salvage and got the top out of a old ford van it already has the stress grooves in it.

ST2DE5
02-24-2007, 08:57 PM
I wouldn't think that would work very well trying to shape it. I have went to the salvage and got the top out of a old ford van it already has the stress grooves in it.

kpcoupe
02-24-2007, 09:04 PM
i was more worried about trying to weld it to the original structure being that it has such a high carbon content. i don't know what the original steel is. what is best a cold rolled mild steel?

kpcoupe
02-24-2007, 09:04 PM
i was more worried about trying to weld it to the original structure being that it has such a high carbon content. i don't know what the original steel is. what is best a cold rolled mild steel?

kpcoupe
02-24-2007, 09:12 PM
i am just trying to save a little money i work in a sheetmetal shop for aircraft and can form just about anything, as far as my welding it is limited. everything on aircraft is held together with some sort fastener they are not welded. i just didn't know what kind of problems i would run into trying to weld together 2 different types of steel. i do like the idea of the van top that would work great for the flat areas.

kpcoupe
02-24-2007, 09:12 PM
i am just trying to save a little money i work in a sheetmetal shop for aircraft and can form just about anything, as far as my welding it is limited. everything on aircraft is held together with some sort fastener they are not welded. i just didn't know what kind of problems i would run into trying to weld together 2 different types of steel. i do like the idea of the van top that would work great for the flat areas.

KGlowacky
02-24-2007, 09:30 PM
With floor replacement experience(more than once) I would recommend prefab floors already formed to your car. Believe me making your own is many more houre than you think. If it just a repair patch then that might be different. Good Luck.

KGlowacky
02-24-2007, 09:30 PM
With floor replacement experience(more than once) I would recommend prefab floors already formed to your car. Believe me making your own is many more houre than you think. If it just a repair patch then that might be different. Good Luck.

Stude4x4
02-24-2007, 09:40 PM
If your trying to save money like I always do(cause I'm cheap):D. Build yer own. Especially working in a sheet metal fab shop, I'm sure you know how to make anything. 4130 isn't necessary 1015 or 1020 mild steel would be just fine. The 4130 will weld just fine to your original floor pan. Hope this helps.

Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4
http://varozza4x4.com
http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/157/5/81/52/505758152RLAddy_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/50/150/3/37/35/506033735XtAfdS_th.jpg

Stude4x4
02-24-2007, 09:40 PM
If your trying to save money like I always do(cause I'm cheap):D. Build yer own. Especially working in a sheet metal fab shop, I'm sure you know how to make anything. 4130 isn't necessary 1015 or 1020 mild steel would be just fine. The 4130 will weld just fine to your original floor pan. Hope this helps.

Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://community.webshots.com/user/Stude4x4
http://varozza4x4.com
http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/157/5/81/52/505758152RLAddy_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/50/150/3/37/35/506033735XtAfdS_th.jpg

Jessie J.
02-24-2007, 10:41 PM
If you would rather not spend the money on Classic Enterprise's pre-formed floorpans, and want to avoid having to form a lot of reinforcing ribs and stampings, another option is to just use a thicker gauge metal, 18 gauge mild steel sheet is what is used by most hot-rodders to fabricate replacement floor pans, as it is strong enough to be quite resistent to oil-canning and flexing, and is much easier to weld without the warpage and burn through that plagues working with thinner materials. Very little additional weight and being thicker, more resistent to rusting out.
The downside is it will not have all the formed channels that were in the original, so might cost a few points in concours judging, but other than that, how often is anyone going to be crawling around under your car?
I've used the other methods before, but this is what I'll be doing from now on, unless the vehicle is a something really rare and valuable like a '57 Golden Hawk, then I'd definately go with the CE products.

Jessie J.
02-24-2007, 10:41 PM
If you would rather not spend the money on Classic Enterprise's pre-formed floorpans, and want to avoid having to form a lot of reinforcing ribs and stampings, another option is to just use a thicker gauge metal, 18 gauge mild steel sheet is what is used by most hot-rodders to fabricate replacement floor pans, as it is strong enough to be quite resistent to oil-canning and flexing, and is much easier to weld without the warpage and burn through that plagues working with thinner materials. Very little additional weight and being thicker, more resistent to rusting out.
The downside is it will not have all the formed channels that were in the original, so might cost a few points in concours judging, but other than that, how often is anyone going to be crawling around under your car?
I've used the other methods before, but this is what I'll be doing from now on, unless the vehicle is a something really rare and valuable like a '57 Golden Hawk, then I'd definately go with the CE products.

Mike Van Veghten
02-24-2007, 10:51 PM
Hot wheels - ALL current steels and most aluminums are "alloys"!!!
Most all have more than one material in them, which makes them alloyed compositions.

For an answer to the original question.
While it can be welded with the "mig" method, it's best "tig" welded. It cannot be welded with gas...and be a good weld.
Excessive heat will ruin it and cause it to crack prematurely.
Mig welded...it may last a year...depending on how and where you drive. The rougher the road, the quicker the welds and around the welds it will crack.

Best bet...use something else.

I believe it's Classic Indusries...they make many floor pans, plus other things that rust badly.

Mike

Mike Van Veghten
02-24-2007, 10:51 PM
Hot wheels - ALL current steels and most aluminums are "alloys"!!!
Most all have more than one material in them, which makes them alloyed compositions.

For an answer to the original question.
While it can be welded with the "mig" method, it's best "tig" welded. It cannot be welded with gas...and be a good weld.
Excessive heat will ruin it and cause it to crack prematurely.
Mig welded...it may last a year...depending on how and where you drive. The rougher the road, the quicker the welds and around the welds it will crack.

Best bet...use something else.

I believe it's Classic Indusries...they make many floor pans, plus other things that rust badly.

Mike

64V-K7
02-25-2007, 06:11 AM
You ought to try this fellow. He's an ace at making everything and his finished product is a cut above Classic, but similar price. His floor pans are preformed ( bent) and fit like a glove. Heavier steel in structural parts also.
Last year, he was at York, with a table full of stuff

Leroy Cary
Cary's Fabricating Service
5270 Dennisville Rd.
Amelia va. 23002
<bakermaker@tds.net>

64V-K7
02-25-2007, 06:11 AM
You ought to try this fellow. He's an ace at making everything and his finished product is a cut above Classic, but similar price. His floor pans are preformed ( bent) and fit like a glove. Heavier steel in structural parts also.
Last year, he was at York, with a table full of stuff

Leroy Cary
Cary's Fabricating Service
5270 Dennisville Rd.
Amelia va. 23002
<bakermaker@tds.net>

ST2DE5
02-25-2007, 09:53 AM
I think a person needs to put it in his mind what he wants to do with the car. If he wants a show car or a daily driver that he is going to keep for a while. And the amount of funds he has to work with. I know all about rebuilding cars and raising kids holding down a job. Back when I started replacing floorboards and patch panels I couldn't afford to buy remanufactured stuff. And I don't think that many young Studebaker fans will able to purchace the new stuff. Maybe after the first one he does and get the experence and use the first one as a learning tool. Maybe the next one he does he will learn from his mistakes. I know I have got a real education from mine. And the next one he do's he might have a little more funds. We need to help our younger people with Studebakers all we can and realize they do not have the funds to a first class restoration on a car.

ST2DE5
02-25-2007, 09:53 AM
I think a person needs to put it in his mind what he wants to do with the car. If he wants a show car or a daily driver that he is going to keep for a while. And the amount of funds he has to work with. I know all about rebuilding cars and raising kids holding down a job. Back when I started replacing floorboards and patch panels I couldn't afford to buy remanufactured stuff. And I don't think that many young Studebaker fans will able to purchace the new stuff. Maybe after the first one he does and get the experence and use the first one as a learning tool. Maybe the next one he does he will learn from his mistakes. I know I have got a real education from mine. And the next one he do's he might have a little more funds. We need to help our younger people with Studebakers all we can and realize they do not have the funds to a first class restoration on a car.

Alexander Feiman
02-25-2007, 10:31 AM
check e-bay a sea of 53-64 front floor pans for $99.00 listed under #140089857822 - alf

Alexander Feiman
02-25-2007, 10:31 AM
check e-bay a sea of 53-64 front floor pans for $99.00 listed under #140089857822 - alf

kpcoupe
02-25-2007, 02:22 PM
YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN GREAT HELP. I WOULD PUT ORIGINAL FLOOR PANS BACK IN BUT THIS CAR HAS ALREADY BEEN MODIFIED WITH MUSTANG 2 FRONT END AND FORD 9 INCH REAR END. I DON'T SEE THE POINT IN TRYING TO KEEP IT ALL ORIGINAL SINCE IT HAS ALREADY BEEN HIGHLY MODIFIED AND I WANT IT TO BE A MODIFIED. I ALSO BOUGHT A 57 SILVERHAWK THAT IS ALL ORIGINAL THE ONLY THING MISSING IS THE ASHTRAY ON THE DRIVERS DOOR. I DID FIRE UP THE MOTOR THE OTHER DAY SEEMED TO RUN GOOD BUT I NEED VALVE CLEARANCE SPECS. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THEY SHOULD BE? SHOULD I CREATE A NEW POST FOR THIS?

kpcoupe
02-25-2007, 02:22 PM
YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN GREAT HELP. I WOULD PUT ORIGINAL FLOOR PANS BACK IN BUT THIS CAR HAS ALREADY BEEN MODIFIED WITH MUSTANG 2 FRONT END AND FORD 9 INCH REAR END. I DON'T SEE THE POINT IN TRYING TO KEEP IT ALL ORIGINAL SINCE IT HAS ALREADY BEEN HIGHLY MODIFIED AND I WANT IT TO BE A MODIFIED. I ALSO BOUGHT A 57 SILVERHAWK THAT IS ALL ORIGINAL THE ONLY THING MISSING IS THE ASHTRAY ON THE DRIVERS DOOR. I DID FIRE UP THE MOTOR THE OTHER DAY SEEMED TO RUN GOOD BUT I NEED VALVE CLEARANCE SPECS. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THEY SHOULD BE? SHOULD I CREATE A NEW POST FOR THIS?