View Full Version : power steering

02-24-2007, 06:05 PM
I am putting power steering on my 62 hawk, with pics from another 62 application. I know that it had it before, I bought it the main parts were stripped, so I got another pump. Hooked all lines rebuilt control valve reassembled,took snap ring out of ram to blow seal out at about 1000rpm turned L then R all the way, it seemed that turning to right stop then with extra effort the steering wheel went another 1/8 turn then fluid shot out around where the pittman arm connects to control valve am not sure if reach rod is properly adjusted the power steering is working properly and the ram seal will not blow out probably because it leaks at the right turn. What do I do now ? How do I know the reach rod is properly set? Thanks for any suggestions

John Kirchhoff
02-24-2007, 10:56 PM
Did you rebuilt the control vale yourself or did someone else? Sounds to me like maybe one of the seals was installed backwards or else it was cut when reassembling it. The grooves in the spool are quite sharp and could have cut it. Also may have accidently reinstalled one of the old ones...they're hard to tell apart. As far as the reach rod goes, the best way to fine tune it is to drive the car and check the position of the steering wheel. Can't remember for sure, but I think one turn of the reach rod rotates the steering wheel about 1/4 turn.

02-25-2007, 03:39 AM
The length of the reach rod should be specified in the manual. Sounds like you need to rebuild the control valve again.
It's more than just a matter of centering the steering wheel, so it looks right. The Ross box has a "tight spot" at center. The worm gear pitch changes, away from center, to give a different rates for straight ahead and parking. The reach rod needs to be the right length. The pitman arm has to be on the shaft in the right position. And, the tie rods should be adjusted to the same length.
Mike M.

02-25-2007, 07:43 AM
Far from an expert here, but the nut holding the spring on the end of the spool valve, controls the amount of pressure in the system. AFAIR, you don't tighten this very much. Check the manual.

Here's a webpage on rebuiding one


02-25-2007, 08:06 PM
I am no expert on these seals so maybe in the confusion of geting everything together and installed,connected one seal could be in backwards. So when I remove the spool as I look at the seal one side is hollow the other is solid when correctly installed should the hollow side be faceing inward and the solid side be faceing the washer

John Kirchhoff
02-25-2007, 09:36 PM
Yep, the hollow side should be on the oil side. The oil is forced between the two seal lips and the pressure forces the lips against the sealing surface. The higher the pressure, the tighter they fit.

02-27-2007, 09:33 PM
Thanks for the help, now one problem I have done everything to the tee and still cant blow that seal out of the ram there is a bit of oil on the piston rod but no drips and no apparent leaking so I may just put the new what I took off and call it done. What do you think ? The fluid strongly swirls in the resevoir is this right?

02-28-2007, 02:47 AM
I take it you are talking about while you are working on and moving the Ram that you see oil movement in the reservoir, right? If so that would be normal, when everything is assembled, completely full, bled warm etc. it should NOT move that harsh.

Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

John Kirchhoff
02-28-2007, 11:23 AM
If the seal on the power steering cylinder doesn't leak, I'd leave well enough alone. If it does leak, remember there's a little cir clip that has to be removed first since it's purpose is to keep oil pressure from pushing the seal out. My seal came out very easily but I did have it loose from the bell crank. You'll want to turn the steering wheel all the way and then hold it until the seal comes off. You'll probably hear the relief valve on the pump buzz and there's a good chance it will stop buzzing after the seal pops loose since the oil will then have some place to go (on the ground).

It's normal to see the oil in the pump reservoir moving any time the engine is running. Power steering pumps are positive displacement gear or vane type pumps and are going to be moving oil any time they're turning. When you aren't turning the steering wheel a relief valve lets the pressurized oil return to the reservoir but when you do turn it, the oil is then routed through the steering cylinder up front. Oil displaced from the cylinder is then forced back into the resevoir. So in short, the oil in the reservoir is going to be moving all the time regardless of whether you're turning the steering wheel or not.

02-28-2007, 11:51 AM
I'm not gonna get into how to do what here, but I WILL add this bit for consideration. Thru the years, I've encountered these PS rams that have a definite worn spot on the ramrod, right about in the neutral position (middle). This is because going down the road, what little steering correction is needed tends to concentrate most of the wear to about an inch or so of the rod.
In a "perfect world" this wouldn't be a problem.[}:)] However, on this planet - there's lots of grime and dust that this rod's exposed to. This grit works where the rod works most against the seals. Consequently, over time, you get a worn spot. This can mean leaks as the seals get old and hard.[xx(] Us older guys know about leaks and worn rods after lotsa miles![}:)]
What I've used to combat this is the plastic bellows/boots that so many 4-wheelers are proud to have you see on their jacked up trucks! One of these (of appropriate size) fitted to rod end and cylinder body and the grit of this imperfect world is kept at bay.... from your PS system anyway.:(

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

John Kirchhoff
02-28-2007, 01:56 PM
Great idea Mr. Biggs! I never thought of using the boots. Often times hydraulic cylinders will wear on one side only due to the shaft flexing. This usually occurs on an application like the Stude cylinder where both mounting points are on the same side. When ever pressure is applied, the rod bows a a bit putting more stress on that side. You'd think that since they're a two way cylinder, it would bow equally whether extending or retracting, but it doen't seem to work that way. I suspect it's because when retracting, the shaft in a hydraulic cylinder reduces the area on that side of the piston resulting in less energy transmitted which means less bowing. I've seen this in cylinders of every size including a 2 1/2" shaft on an old scraper I have. Once the chrome plating wears off, the rougher steel wears out seals in a hurry.