Anyways to tighten up the steer?

[stude62]

I've been driving my 1963 Lark a bit, and I'm wondering if there are any way to tighten the (non-power) steering?

There's about three inches of play, left to right when traveling in straight line. The result is that I spend a lot of time compensating. It can distract a driver.

My mechanic said that the pieces parts all look good when its up on the rack. I just want to eliminate the sawing while driving aspect.

Stu K


'63 Lark Regal, "Miss Rose"

[kamzack]

I'll wade in here cautiously for fear of gettin beat up.
First thing to look at is bellcarnk pin. All things can look good looking at them. One should have a body in the drive seat and one look at steering components as steer wheel is moved back and forth. If the bellcrank moves up and down at all, that can translate to excess steering movement. Lark suspensions have a number of moving parts that can have a bit of wear which can add up to excessive play, as you've described. Grip tire parralell to ground see how movement in tie rods, grip vertically for wear in kingpins. Look for movement in the reach rod(from pitman arm to bellcrank) Additionally, there's is an adjustment on the steering box that can reduce the play. It's on the engine side of the box and is a nut with a set screw in the middle. I suggest having a real good look at suspension components first.
Hope this helps,
Kim

[doug]

The slop in my '63 is the center pivot on the cross member. It causes a lot of free movement and needs to be replaced. It should be easy to lift the front end and find out where your free play is coming from, steering box, tie rod ends or center pivot (or all). You might check with another mechanic.

[showbizkid]

Stu, check my blog - I just did this job, adjusting the steering box play. You can find the link with photos here.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Thanks for posting that Steering blog. I missed it when it was first posted and it's something to look at in both of my cars.

quote:showbizkid Posted - 04/23/2010 : 10:41:08 AM Stu, check my blog - I just did this job, adjusting the steering box play. You can find the link with photos here.

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

www.studebakersandiego.com

Allen


1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[Jerry Forrester]

Do <s>what I do</s> what I saw someone else do. Let half the air out of the right front tire. This will cause the steering to pull to the right. Then you can keep all the slack took up by constantly pulling down on the left side of the steering wheel. Problem solved.[]
Hope this helps.

Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia

[stude62]

Thanks to all. Clark, I copied the Studeblogger page and give that to Jeff. I'll let you know how it comes out

Stu K


'63 Lark Regal, "Miss Rose"

[blackhawk]

quote:Originally posted by stude62

Thanks to all. Clark, I copied the Studeblogger page and give that to Jeff. I'll let you know how it comes out

Stu K


'63 Lark Regal, "Miss Rose"

Stu,

It doesn't take much play in the center steering bellcrank to translate to a lot of play in the steering. When you take the bellcrank bracket out to repair it, make sure it has needle bearings between the pin and bracket, not bushings. If it has bushings, I suggest that you find a bracket with bearings from an earlier Studebaker and rebuild it instead for use in your car. The bushings wear quickly even if regularly greased. The brackets with bearings instead of bushings stay tight without play for a long time. It is well worth your time and money to switch to a bracket with bearings instead of bushings. Studebaker switched to bushings in 1963 and continued using the bushings to the end as far as I know. However, 1963 was a transition year for this part. The '63s used bellcrank brackets with bushings before car serial numbers 63S-2098 (6-cyl models) and 63V-1773 (V8 models), and again after car serial numbers 63S-6108 and 63V-5141. Brackets with bearings were used on and between those serial numbers.

Dale Haggstrom
Fairbanks, Alaska

[showbizkid]

If you get the reconditioned steering pin from SI, they put bearings into 'em. That's what I did. Make sure you save the special long Zerk fitting for greasing the pin to re-use - new ones of that length are surprisingly hard to find.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[kamzack]

One can also use the bushing type housing by having the ends machined to accept torrington bearings. The bearings are common and not expensive.
Kim

[sgriggs]

Question about the steering gear adjustment procedure referenced here. I have a '62 Champ pickup with a Ross TA-12 gear. The Stude Truck shop manual I have says that before performing the adjuster screw adjustment, you should check for and, if necessary, adjust steering post end play. The process for compensating for steering post end play involves removing shims from between the gear case and top cover--what looks like a fairly time-consuming project. In people's practical experience with these Ross gears, is that not something that is usually required to correct on-center gear lash?