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50 chmp automatic bands

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  • 50 chmp automatic bands

    Dose anyone know the operation to adjust the bands on my dg 150 three band automatic. the book says to use a tool thats specific to the studebaker , its some kinda screw in guage. Anyway, is there a way to set up the bands with-out this tool Thanks R.C.

  • #2
    Adjust the front band [applies in reverse] to 45 INCH/ POUNDS and backoff 4 TURNS. Tighten the center and rear bands to 45 INCH/POUNDS and backoff 3 TURNS. Then tighten lock nuts to 25 FOOT POUNDS. Lou Cote [8D]

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    • #3
      Hello Rebertsamx,

      Here's the best info for taking care of your DG tranny. It's a great transmission and if you can tell, I am very partial to them.

      Instructions on changing the oil:
      1) Warm up the tranny by driving a few miles if possible
      2) Drain the pan by one of two methods: A)by removing the oil pan drain plug B) For more thorough draining remove the drain pan and clean out heavy sediment that collects and clean the wire mesh filter at the same time.
      *Next up is to Drain the Torque converter
      3)Remove the cover plate on the bottom of the T/C housing
      4)Put tranny in Neutral,
      5)Rotate T/C until you see the drain plug
      *I like to rotate the T/C with a big screw driver wedged between the T/C to flex plate bolts
      6)Remove T/C drain plug and let fluid empty
      7)Replace the T/C drain plug, firm tightness
      8)Replace the T/C cover plate
      9)Replace the oil pan drain plug
      10)Now read and follow the instructions below, copied from another post I did.

      FILLING THE DG TRANNY
      Use DexIII -merc or better, as the new technology ATF's are very good and there's no bad issues with using this new stuff with old auto-trannys (because modern trannys are increadibly similar on the insides to our old 50's trannys, when you look at the basics of clutch packs, bushings, the stuff that matters when it comes to oil.)

      9 liters is the max (+/- a little)-this ONLY applies if tranny AND torque converter totally empty. If during a rebuild, your TC is prefilled with a quart or two when you re-install the tranny (highly recommended), then how much you will need to add will be lower -please be aware of that. If you end up putting in 10, I'd be worried as that is definitely above what the shop manual specifies and it's above the amounts that I have ever seen put in.

      With completely empty tranny and T/C, here's fill up procedures:
      1. Add 6-7 liters prior to startup.
      2. Start engine, immediately put tranny into Drive or Low (either works perfect, idea here is to 1) fill brake band actuators, 2) apply low gear brake band to decrease splatter that gets on dipstick making it hard to read or giving false readings)
      3. Add an additional quart within first 30 seconds with car running.
      4. Check dipstick for level (engine still running)
      5. Add additional oil (engine still running)
      6. Repeat steps 4-5 until level is just below full.
      7. drive car around block -double check to see if level has changed.
      8. Continue driving 10-20 minutes) until engine/tranny at HOT operating temp, then make final oil level check. If overfilled, suck some out, if under-filled top it off.


      OTHER NEED TO KNOW INFORMATION FOR NEW DG TRANNY OWNERS
      **OCCASIONAL BRAKE BAND ADJUSTMENT IS CRUCIAL -follow procedure below (copied from another post I did -easier that way) Modern cars do this automatically, our 50's cars don't. If you do lots of stop and go driving, where more shifts occur, expect to do this more often, for most it's probably a once every 10,000 -20,000 check.

      This is all covered in the shop manual, I'd highly recommend you and anyone working on the DG to get one, if you don't have it already:
      There are three bands, the most forward band is the reverse, the middle is low and the rear is the forward band. All of them are adjusted the same, with a lock nut and an adjustment screw. The low and forward bands are reached via the driver side and the reverse is reached from the passenger side. The idea is to loosen the lock nut and then adjust the band until it is close but not binding on the planetary gear drum. Studebaker specifies a special "band adjustment tool" which is a rare, very rare, item. I have one that I got off ebay, so I made up some instruction to do it without it based on counting the turns of the screw. So far those who have done it, say it works very well -I also did this method for a number of years prior to getting the tool.

      So here it is, the shade tree way of doing it,
      Stude DG series (150, 200, or 250) brake band adjustment:
      Loosen the lock nut (3/4 socket) and tighten the adjusting bolt (5/16 open end socket)
      Best Regards,
      Eric West
      "The Speedster Kid"
      Sunny Northern California
      Where the roads don't freeze over and the heat doesn't kill you.
      And an open road is yours to have -only during non-commute rush hours 9am-4pm and 7pm to 7am (Ha, ha, ha)
      55 Speedster "Lemon/Lime" (Beautiful)
      55 President State Sedan (Rusty original, but runs great and reliable)

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