Just finished installing upper and lower control arm bushings. But,two questions: how am I supposed to toeque these as they are tight locations? The shop manual for the upper cap screws says 50 to 55 FOOT pounds, on a grade 8 3/8 inch bolt, I don't think so Tim. The bottom shows 65 FOOT pounds for a bolt with a 3/4 inch head. I have full vehicle weight on my turntables and even bounced both sides of car to help it settle. Thanks for the help!! Lou Cote [8D]
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A arm Torque specs?
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You need a ratcheting torque wrench. They are pretty inexpensive these days. I still have my beam type too but rarely use them simply because having a ratchet is so much easier. You probably will only need one so get a good brand 1/2 inch drive unit so you can use it for other stuff like torqueing down lug nuts so you dont warp brake rotors.
If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....
65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
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65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
63 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC
45 Agricat
67 Triumph T100
66 Bultaco Matadore
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Yes I do have a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench, but this is a complete car engine in place ,front clip is on etc. This is on my 62 Hawk. There is no room to get a torque wrench on the front cap screws on the lower control arms. The uppers are even tighter for room, BESIDES torquing a grade 8 bolt of 3/8 size to 50 FOOT pounds seems to me to be wrong. A typo in the shop manual? Thank YOU !!! Lou Cote [8D]
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This reminds me of when I had to torque my head bolts down on the engine. These little buggers are, I believe a couple sizes larger than 3/8(I'd have to go and look again on that one), but the manual called for 65 ft lbs. These bolts are alot tougher than I thought, in addition I place full trust on the manual when it comes to torque specs in this instance, because odds are some very smart people figured these numbers up at the factory, they had to. If I didn't go by the specs, I'd have the potential for some blown headgaskets or something else disasterous happening. In your case if the head snaps, either it's not grade 8, the torque rating was too high, or somebody really errored at the factory in the manual, which could be really bad. You gotta remember these torque ratings, particularly if it's keeping something critical fastened, or keeping something properly rotating, also keep the suspension from making a mess all over road [].
I also have used those grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers all over the engine, I love the finish on the bolts with the black paint .
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1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)
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