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  • Avanti Frame Rail, Replace or Splice?

    Well it looks like I'm going to purchase a set of frame rails. I would have rather found a replacement frame, but I'm not willing to wait forever to find one. Does anyone have experience replacing or splicing in a new rail? I've been told that instead of replacing the entire rail that it's best to splice in a new piece somewhere near the rear passengers seat.


    Thanks
    -Shaun

  • #2
    Shaun

    Just my opinion which could be changed by the more knowledgeable forum members.

    I would think that the most difficult thing to do with replacing the total frame rails would be to jig them properly so you have a perfectly level and parallel frame after welding in a home shop environment.

    I would think the best place to join the frame would be in front of the rear spring/body mount and I think that is what I would do. I'd be sure to stager the joints from side to side and also extend the bottom plate even further. Then before joining the frame parts add doublers to span the joints. I know that will stiffen a fairly flexible frame but I would think the area around the spring mounts is relatively rigid due to the size of the spring mounts/body mounts anyway.

    JMHO

    Bob

    ,

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    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by jenovi

      Well it looks like I'm going to purchase a set of frame rails. I would have rather found a replacement frame, but I'm not willing to wait forever to find one. Does anyone have experience replacing or splicing in a new rail? I've been told that instead of replacing the entire rail that it's best to splice in a new piece somewhere near the rear passengers seat.


      Thanks
      -Shaun
      I've been waiting a month for two guys that wanted to buy the pair of stripped Avanti parts cars with frames. I told Sal to give the one more day to make up their minds, if they don't I'll have two frames in Ca. for sale, I can't wait forever for tire kickers. If the frames become available, they'll be rollers with a Lark rear and stock front suspension for 2K each.

      JDP Maryland
      Disclaimer:
      None of the discussions of my Studebakers are a invitation to buy nor a promotion to sell, I'm just sharing the hobby the way I practice it.
      JDP Maryland

      Comment


      • #4
        Based on my own experience, the LAST thing I'd want to do is replace an entire rail. WAY too easy to mess it up and have problems forever. I'd rather section in a piece than do a whole rail. Of course, you have to make darn sure the rest of the frame is solid before you try splicing.

        I would recommend making JDP fish or cut bait on the frames he has (and has promised to do above). For me, I would MUCH rather buy and travel or ship cross-country than splice or section.

        Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
        Parish, central NY 13131

        GOD BLESS AMERICA





        Comment


        • #5
          Shaun
          If you do decide to splice the original chassis with another one it might be more cost effective for you to purhase a good Lark frame rather than the rails. It might end up cheaper/easier as all the bits are attached ( except the rear saddles).
          Just a thought
          pb

          Comment


          • #6
            Avanti frames with a Lark rear?

            -Shaun

            quote:Originally posted by JDP

            quote:Originally posted by jenovi

            Well it looks like I'm going to purchase a set of frame rails. I would have rather found a replacement frame, but I'm not willing to wait forever to find one. Does anyone have experience replacing or splicing in a new rail? I've been told that instead of replacing the entire rail that it's best to splice in a new piece somewhere near the rear passengers seat.


            Thanks
            -Shaun
            I've been waiting a month for two guys that wanted to buy the pair of stripped Avanti parts cars with frames. I told Sal to give the one more day to make up their minds, if they don't I'll have two frames in Ca. for sale, I can't wait forever for tire kickers. If the frames become available, they'll be rollers with a Lark rear and stock front suspension for 2K each.

            JDP Maryland
            Disclaimer:
            None of the discussions of my Studebakers are a invitation to buy nor a promotion to sell, I'm just sharing the hobby the way I practice it.

            Comment


            • #7
              Shaun

              Here's a post on the Avanti/Lark frame topic.



              You should be able to find what you want.

              Bob

              ,

              Comment


              • #8
                [quote]Originally posted by jenovi

                Avanti frames with a Lark rear?

                -Shaun

                As the previous post suggested the Avanti frame is based on Lark frame.
                You could convert a Lark convertible or 2 dr frame using your existng Avanti brackets.
                By only splicing a new rear on to your existing frame then any appropiate Lark chassis should be ok, ie it would open up the range of chassis you can use as it is only the rear section you require.
                The advantage is that all the spring hangers etc are already on the chassis and it is a whole lot easier to do.
                Of course you will need to cut the very end of the frame and add the frame saddle that the Avanti requires but that is a 10 min job .
                pb

                Comment


                • #9
                  Any time you work on a frame the dimentions have to be correct in 3-D (3 dimentions), width, highth & depth or you'll end up with junk. Body shops today have computer measuring equipment that has the dimentions programed into the system, however, since Studebaker was last made way before this equipment was available it is not in the program.

                  Frame dimentions need to be exactly square or a diamond condition would occur. That is, if you were looking from above, all dimentions are even taken in an "X" measurement. This is fortunate for us because our frames are symetrical (all dimentions are the same from side to side and referance holes are in the same locations), vs some modern cars are asymetrical and must be measured on a laser or modern computer assisted measuring system. Now too the frame has to be level or set in a horizontal (or datum) plane.

                  The only other possible way of doing a rail splice or section with any certainty would require a ridgid jig made first. The time and expence of doing that with the chance of something going wrong makes a full frame swap as JDP suggests the only real solution.

                  60 Lark convertible
                  61 Champ
                  62 Daytona convertible
                  63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
                  63 Avanti (2)
                  66 Daytona Sport Sedan
                  59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                  60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                  61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                  62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                  63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                  63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                  64 Zip Van
                  66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                  66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                  • #10
                    Exactly right, Warren. Too easy to mess up, even by experts.

                    Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
                    Parish, central NY 13131

                    GOD BLESS AMERICA





                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by JDP

                      quote:Originally posted by jenovi

                      Well it looks like I'm going to purchase a set of frame rails. I would have rather found a replacement frame, but I'm not willing to wait forever to find one. Does anyone have experience replacing or splicing in a new rail? I've been told that instead of replacing the entire rail that it's best to splice in a new piece somewhere near the rear passengers seat.


                      Thanks
                      -Shaun
                      I've been waiting a month for two guys that wanted to buy the pair of stripped Avanti parts cars with frames. I told Sal to give the one more day to make up their minds, if they don't I'll have two frames in Ca. for sale, I can't wait forever for tire kickers. If the frames become available, they'll be rollers with a Lark rear and stock front suspension for 2K each.

                      JDP Maryland
                      Disclaimer:
                      None of the discussions of my Studebakers are a invitation to buy nor a promotion to sell, I'm just sharing the hobby the way I practice it.
                      OK, waited long enough, I have two Avanti frames available in California.

                      JDP Maryland
                      Disclaimer:
                      None of the discussions of my Studebakers are a invitation to buy nor a promotion to sell, I'm just sharing the hobby the way I practice it.
                      JDP Maryland

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Shaun

                        Do yourself a favor and grab the best one that JDP has. It will save all the work and issues described above and you won't look back in a few months and say "I wish I wooda"

                        An Avanti deserves a great frame and you can do the same thing I am doing with the frame I'm getting next week. I'm going to modify and rebuild the second frame while I put miles on the car.

                        When it's done I'll lift the body and set in on the new, improved frame.

                        The only down time will be the short time to move the body from one frame to another.

                        Bob



                        ,

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                        • #13
                          Do you have a perfectly flat and level table to do this on? Have you done this type of repair before? Tape measurements DO NOT cut it on frame repair anymore! By the time you are done, you will have a lot more invested than finding a frame assy.

                          Jim
                          "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                          We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


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                          • #14
                            I patched up a rusty frame once. It is not easy, and i just welde bottom plates on and patched holes in the sides. I cant imagine even trying to do a whole rail, or even a section without some jigs of some sort. Eventually I parted a car with a good frame and swapped it. Best thing I ever did for that car. Be patient. Go buy one of JDP's frames.

                            66 Commander R1 Clone
                            51 Commander 4dr
                            1962 Champ

                            51 Commander 4 door

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                            • #15
                              quote:Originally posted by 52 Ragtop

                              Do you have a perfectly flat and level table to do this on? Have you done this type of repair before? Tape measurements DO NOT cut it on frame repair anymore!
                              Agree 100%. If you ever saw a jig table in a chassis-builder's shop, you would be sufficiently intimidated into just buying a complete frame. That or go to a modern collision shop and look at their frame rack and gauges[:0]

                              I did collision work for 20 years with a Bear frame rack and even I would opt for a replacement frame.

                              Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
                              Parish, central NY 13131

                              GOD BLESS AMERICA





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