PDA

View Full Version : Bearing Help



r1lark
08-24-2006, 08:49 PM
I bought these bearings off eBay. When I opened them up, this is what I found. I emailed the vendor, and he says the oxidation is on the back sides of the shells, and should easily come off with steel wool or sand paper. I am not sure I want to even try.

Would you use these?

http://racingstudebakers.com/coppermine/albums/userpics/10041/normal_DCP_0015.JPG


Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

1956 Hawk
08-24-2006, 11:15 PM
I don't see any problem as long as the bearing surface is okay. I would use steel wool on them as it is less abrasive.
David

rockne10
08-24-2006, 11:48 PM
Inner surface is critical, edges and outer surface should be cleaned. What is application?

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg
previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

r1lark
08-25-2006, 07:10 AM
quote:Originally posted by rockne10

Inner surface is critical, edges and outer surface should be cleaned. What is application?
Brad Johnson


Stude V8........

Paul

Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: http://hometown.aol.com/r1skytop/myhomepage/index.html

Mike Van Veghten
08-25-2006, 10:16 AM
Well....if they were mine...I "definatly" send'em back.

Being that there is the same steel backing under all of those coatings of copper, lead, babbit, what ever all is used...you have no idea how far the corrosion on the steel has progressed. It WILL eat right under the soft bearing material and you won't know it untill the engine is loaded a little and chuncks of bearinf material breaks off.............!

Send'em back, [u]do not use them</u>, that's my two cents worth.

Mike

CHAMP
08-25-2006, 10:28 AM
I agree with Mike It's to much work If those bearings fail, and could cause damage to crankshaft and other engine parts![8D]

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

JDP
08-25-2006, 10:29 AM
If it's a set in a size I can use and the price is fair, I'll buy them. the back surface will clean up with some oil and a Scotch Brite pan.

http://stude.com/sig.jpg
Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
63 Daytona HT
63 Lark 2 dr.
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT(parts car)
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
52 Starliner
51 Commander

ROADRACELARK
08-25-2006, 10:34 AM
Ditto on Mike's reply...If the vendor dosen't see a "problem" with them, let him use them in HIS engine..IMO :)
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

CHAMP
08-25-2006, 11:10 AM
What gets me is people selling these parts should clean these parts up before selling and they would have a better idea of the condition of the parts and their value! They might even get more money!:)

GARY H 2DR.SEDAN 48 STUDEBAKER CHAMPION NORTHEAST MD.

Dwain G.
08-25-2006, 11:49 AM
Hard to say how they would clean up just by looking at a picture, but they're probably not usable. Certainly not in an engine you plan to use a lot or run hard. If they are not a good quality tri-metal bearing to start with, I wouldn't want them anyway.
In cleaning, you cannot remove any material, yet any surface imperfection left behind on the backside will transfer to the bearing surface when the caps are torqued down. Bearing failure is then almost certain.

http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/9GQ2.jpg
Dwain G.

Mike Van Veghten
08-25-2006, 03:24 PM
Yea....cleaning a rusted bearing to sell as good parts........that's like putting a bandaid on a leg amputation........more damage to follow!!

Some don't seem to understand the way corrosion works. It doesn't matter (for the most part!) what's covering the base metal...the corrosion WILL continue it's propagation right around and UNDER "most" coatings. And bearing material is NOT a rust proofing material!

Mike

whacker
08-26-2006, 12:15 AM
Rust is metal. Once it gets into the oil, it will go through the entire engine. The abrasive metal will cause early wear and you'll be back into that engine before you know it. Last I checked, new repro mains were still $75.00 a set + shipping. It isn't worth taking the chance for that price.

StudeRich
08-26-2006, 03:14 AM
These are RODS, they are only $50.00, but they will be like the $75.00 Mains, just cheap imports. [xx(] Good USA Federal Mogual bearings are a little more than double that! [^]


quote:Originally posted by whacker

Rust is metal. Once it gets into the oil, it will go through the entire engine. The abrasive metal will cause early wear and you'll be back into that engine before you know it. Last I checked, new repro mains were still $75.00 a set + shipping. It isn't worth taking the chance for that price.


StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

hank63
08-26-2006, 08:19 AM
If you go to the trouble of pulling the engine apart, get pristine and perfect bearing shells. Crank bearing failures can be pretty spectacular and they are always expensive to fix.
I sure wouldn't fit in any of my engines.
/H