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Champion51
02-12-2007, 09:39 PM
Hi all you Stude buffs!

My front signal/park light sockets are corroded and not making proper contact with the retaining cylinder that holds them. Because the cables are not spring-loaded I am getting sporadic contact with the twin terminals on the bulb base. If you wiggle, push or pull on one or both cables the lights work. This socket can only take an 1158 bulb, which is a rare thing to boot. Have already tried to build up the pigtail terminals with solder, and it worked (somewhat), but that's mickey-mouse and not predictable.

I was able to get a socket assembly that will take the 1154 bulb (as used in the rear park/stop/taillight setup), but cannot make it work properly on the front. When either the signal or park light is activated, the candle power is extremely weak, maybe 1/12 of what it should be. Also the slots which accommodate the tabs on either side of the socket shaft make the shaft a little too thick to fit in the retaining cylinder mounted on the side of lens-retaining fixture.

Has anyone encountered this problem and have a fix for me. Replacing the original sockets with new ones would be the answer, but although shown in the catalogue, NAPA says they aren't available anymore. Perhaps NAPA in USA still carry them? I would prefer to stay with sockets that take the 1158 bulb, but the other alternative is making that 1154 work. Has anybody converted their front-end over to the 1154 socket and bulb? Imagine the setup is the same in 47-52 models.

Once this problem is solved, I'll be up and running and not bugging the world anymore. Thanks everyone for any help you can give.

Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

Roscomacaw
02-12-2007, 10:10 PM
The springs are obviously rotted away in those original sockets. If as you say, the later bulbs won't fit, then you need to do what you must to adapt later sockets to accept the bulbs that WILL work.

That said, have you considered adding secondary lite fixtures to the front bumper or someplace? Turn signals were still a bit of a novelty in '51 and aftermarketers offered "kits" with seconday lite fixtures as well as add-on TS switches.:D

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Champion51
02-12-2007, 10:41 PM
Actually Bob, these sockets never did have springs. The terminals on the cable ends sat firmly on the 2 little posts in the base of the socket, no room for movement at all. And that is the problem. Why they didn't design the front end sockets like the back-end, I don't know. I do know, that I want spring- loaded cables in the sockets this time around. I'm also wondering if possibly they used the same numbering system on 12V bulbs as the 6V. It could be, that the old bulb I am working with is a 12V and thus the dim lighting. Also possible that the bulb is not actually an 1154.

Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

gecoe
02-13-2007, 01:07 AM
Are you sure about the lack of springs originally? I find it kind of hard to believe since the front turn signal/park light sockets on my 50 Champion were equipped with springs. Granted, they weren't very springy anymore but they were there. I found the usual Stude vendors carried the sockets and replaced them.

Gerry
NE Colorado

Mike
02-13-2007, 03:35 AM
Rhode Island Wire has some parts to rebuild the old sockets. Look under "Supplies", "Washers, Buttons, and Springs": also "Junction Blocks, Fuses, Sockets, and More" @
http://www.riwire.com/ .
Mike M.

N8N
02-13-2007, 06:26 AM
Unless the socket is actually rusted through, I'd just rebuild it - there's a number on my web site for a repair kit you can buy at your FLAPS. I think it is a Ford socket if I remember correctly, just throw away the socket and reuse the rest of the pieces :)

If the plastic thing is still good in your existing socket, so much the better - you probably really only need the "dots" and the springs as well.

If you have a good soldering iron, you cam even make your own contacts simply by flattening the end of the wire on a steel or iron surface and filling it with solder.

good luck

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Roscomacaw
02-13-2007, 04:09 PM
Maybe I'm wrong[B)] I'll go look at some 51 HL buckets I've got lying about.;)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Champion51
02-13-2007, 09:30 PM
I've managed to file the inside of the sleeves that hold the socket enough to get a standard bayonet-style, double-contact, indexed, J slotted socket to slide tightly and securely inside the sleeve. I had an old 1154 bulb kicking around that fit perfectly and worked perfectly (for about 1 minute before it burnt out). Not ready to give up, I took one of my expensive 1158 lamps, dremeled off one of the opposing side posts and put it in. It works great. Don't know how long it will last, as it is only holding on with one post - but I guess time will tell. I'm going to pick up another 1154 bulb and see if it will work without failing as it is the correct bulb for that socket.
If it does fail, then I'll have to continue my search for a socket with opposing posts, that will take the 1158. For anyone that's interested, check out lamp sockets at Cole-Hersee at colehersee.com. Part 26106, I believe, is the one I need, but I'll have to find an auto store that carries them. Have already checked out the Studebaker vendors with no luck.

Dave D.
'51 4-dr Champion
Smithers, B.C.
Canada

starlightchamp
02-14-2007, 02:48 PM
I have an original box of 1154 bulbs, Heavy duty, 6 volts, GE. The box held ten and eight are left.
If you want two or three, I'd be gald to send then assuming you can't find them locally.

Also, when I fixed my 50 Starlight front sockets, I took the holder socket apart and removed the rivet like brass connectors. There was along each wire a spring , then the phenolic
insulating disk and the rivet like contact. The wires were toast with cloth insulation nearly extinct. To replace the wire, I cut of at the contact leaving about 1/4". Then using visegrips
and squeezing the contact shaft at the dimple, I was able to extract stands of the old wire.
Another trick that worked was to cut the old wire flush and drill out the strands. Then solder in new wires, thread through the insulating disk, add the springs and insert into the barrel
holder. Made like new.

1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/125/368321841_7d3a05da00_t.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/185/367175252_40e3cec1d9_t.jpg