Leaf spring bushings and fan clearance

[Relark]

Somwhere I saw a post suggesting using poly bushings from a Jeep to replace the rubber bushings on the rear leaf springs. Anyone have more info on this? Also, I have a sbc in a '59 Lark. The waterpump to radiator clearace is only 1". I only have room for an electric fan in front of the radiator. It wants to overheat in heavy traffic. It keeps up OK so long as I am moving, it even shuts off around 20 mph. I used '66 Stude V8 motor mounts (sbc), does the '66 have a longer engine compartment? I'd like to install a 6 blade fan and shroud in the normal position. Has anyone ever moved the rad forward for more clearance?

'59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

[studebakerkid]

I dopped my leafsprings and had nylon eye bushings made and yes I have shimmed a radiator forward but hoe much you can go depends on your grill and hood latch.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[studebakerkid]

If you have clearance you should be able to gain an inch. Another thought could be to step up your waterpump speed or install and aftermarket highperformance wateer pump that flows more volume or you could even add a ssecond smaller electric fan on the inside of the radiator.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[s2dwagon]

There are short shaft water pumps available for SBCs. Maybe, if you aren't already using one, you could gain enough space by going that route.

Later,

Scott

[sweetolbob]

For the record, The short shaft pump will gain 1 1/8" in clearance but will probably require other pulleys and brackets.

If necessary though it is a valid solution.

Bob

,

[N8N]

I am pretty sure that the long water pump wasn't introduced until the very late 60's or early 70's, so any Chevybaker would have had the short water pump stock, if you have a newer engine that is likely your problem

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[doug]

The 65-66 chevybakers have a longer engine compartment (radiator spaced forward) to make room for the chevy six. I'm not sure about the '65 models. The radiator saddle (?) is different than early Larks.

[Relark]

I'll check it out a little later today and see if the short shaft pump will clear the blower belt. As I remember, the fan would then hit the belt. That would be great if I could use a Flex-O-Lite fan with a shrould.
I've read that when the coolant flow through the radiator is increased, the coolant doesn't have enough time to transfer the heat to the air but I don't know this from experience. Restrictor washers are sold to replace the t-stat to limit flow speed on circle track cars, but maybe on the street it's a different situation. So, a higher volume short-shaft pump may be the answer, hopefully.

Art

[Relark]

Putting a straight edge across the waterpump pulley, I have 1 1/2" plus, measured to the radiator. I ordered a 14" Flex-O-lite fan and 1" spacer from Jegs. That should give me a good 1/2" clearance at the bottom. The engine tilts back more at the top, so with careful planning, I can tilt the radiator forward at the bottom 1/2" for additonal clearance. The short shaft pump would put the fan into the blower drive belt. I imagine I could get a shorter blower snout and drive pulleys, but the cost may be prohibitive.
Any info on gaining cooling through a higher volume pump?

[sweetolbob]

Art

I can't speak as an expert on the subject but my understanding of the purpose of a high volume water pump is to increase the flow and therefore pressure in the system to be sure all areas of the block get a good flow of coolant.

That will fall apart if you move the coolant to rapidly through the radiator as poor heat transfer will occur. My guess is that most well designed pumps are set to provide better cooling without the radiator problems in a normally designed cooling system.

Here's the one I put on the 355 SBC (non-blown) in my Avanti.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67265/

So far my problem has been getting it to heat above 145 deg with a 195 deg thermostat. Of course it's 20 deg in the pole barn and I've got a large aluminum radiator. I had to block off 80 % of the radiator to get it hot enough to set the timing.

At the price from Summit it could be an inexpensive experiment.

Good luck, Love the car.

Bob

,

[Relark]

quote:Originally posted by sweetolbob

Art

I can't speak as an expert on the subject but my understanding of the purpose of a high volume water pump is to increase the flow and therefore pressure in the system to be sure all areas of the block get a good flow of coolant.

That will fall apart if you move the coolant to rapidly through the radiator as poor heat transfer will occur. My guess is that most well designed pumps are set to provide better cooling without the radiator problems in a normally designed cooling system.

Here's the one I put on the 355 SBC (non-blown) in my Avanti.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-67265/

So far my problem has been getting it to heat above 145 deg with a 195 deg thermostat. Of course it's 20 deg in the pole barn and I've got a large aluminum radiator. I had to block off 80 % of the radiator to get it hot enough to set the timing.

At the price from Summit it could be an inexpensive experiment.

Good luck, Love the car.

Bob

,

Thanks Bob, Good lookin' iron you have there, too! 20F around here in central FL is very rare. I'll try the Flex fan first, it stays around 190F (85-90 outside temp.) if I can keep it rolling around 30mph +. The alum. pump sounds like the next step if I need a little more cooling. The extra volume pump may be intended for a larger radiator, but it's cheap to find out......

Thanks, Art

[ChampTrucking]

Art. I have a 6 blade flex fan on my Lark with a T-Bow fan shroud/short high volume pump and 3 row radiator and still have the same cooling issues you have.You have to watch the fan pitch very carefully because one with steeply curved blades WILL hit the blower belt.I found out with the first fan.The fan I have now is off a friends prior race car motor. My blower is for a short water pump BTW. The darn blower puts too much heat into the motor. I was asking about the electric fan as a way around the problem. Maybe both fans would do it?

[Relark]

That explains my clearance problem. My blower is the long snout, I didn't remember the short shaft waterpump style. The Flex fan arrived yesterday along with a 1" spacer, I'll need a 2" to clear the blower belt. That puts it right into the radiator. Didn't have time to pull the rad. to see if it can be moved forward. Orig. Stude fan is flatter, will try that first. Also the elec. fan will hit the grille mounted on the front of the rad.! Lots of planning here. I'll contact Weiand to see about changing the snout.
Mo' money.... Weather here in central FL cool and rainy, I guess wife shouldn't mind if I pull her new Crossfire out of the garage to work on the Lark. Ya think?

[ChampTrucking]

LOL Well we are getting light snow up here. Hoping for a few inches so I can plow up some money.

[Relark]

I just came back from the Zephyrhills FL, car show, there were three vendors selling aluminum radiators. I talked to all of them, learned a lot. One recommended Stewart Performance for high flow water pumps. He said high flow is important, but flow slows way down at low speed. This is due to the pump being a centrifical design, rather than positive displacement. He claimed Stewart makes a hi-flo that pushes more water at low to idle speeds. (Google Stewart Performance, they have an Adobe format article about cooling systems that is very long and informative.) I did purchase an aluminum radiator from a Dillon Rad. representative, found his suggestions and experience very helpful. The price was right, $135 out the door, USA made and no epoxy, nice welds, crossflow style. He mentioned the cooling tubes in old style rads. weren't as efficent and probably my rad was pretty corroded inside. The width is right on, no mounting ears, but will mount on top and bottom channel. I'll keep ya posted.
BTW wife frowned on moving the Crossfire out of the garage...Don't wanna die from mysterious food poisoning......Art