What happens when you lube tapered axle ends

[showbizkid]

During my recent brake job, I incurred an extra press labor charge due to the need to swap out a hub on my new rear brake drums. (This is not a complaint - this stuff happens. No big.)

The reason? Someone, somewhere, had lubed their tapered axle end to ease hub/drum reinstallation, with the result shown below:



That hub eased right on when the axle nut got torqued down, alright - and split the keyway right out in the process. I'd read about this here before, but never seen it!

A good lesson for newbies (like yours truly [)])


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[showbizkid]

And for comparison, here's what it's supposed to look like.




[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[rockne10]

[jallen]

Is it possible that these hubs were over tightened, and the
splitting keyway had nothing to do with grease? My book says
170 ft.lbs., it would be easy to exceed if you didn't use a
torque wrench.

[Bud]

Someone that is unfamiliar with Studebakers may have used an impact wrench instead of a torque wrench when they installed the rear drums. I've seen several Stude hubs that were split and I don't know if it was due to grease or overtightening. It's tough to tell after the hub has been on the axle for many years. Bud

[Invalid User Name]

Thanks for posting this. You will probably never know how many beginners you kept from making this mistake - myself included.


Doug
Venice, Florida
1950 Champion
9G F1

[Tom Bredehoft]

I'm not sure a bit of overtightening would do that. The specs say 170, then turn the castle nut to the next slot for the cotter key. That could easily put it over 200. I'd say it would take grease to do it. Or possibly repeated wheel hop.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
....On the road, again....
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[GEEMAC]

I have been with the understanding that the tapered shaft should never be greased when restalling the drum but clean and dry?MAC

[MyStude_Baker]

You are right. Grease should never be used on tapered rear axles because they slip and split. Thanks for the photo and warning. I have to do my rear brakes next.

1951 Commander Land cruiser

[Dwain G.]

Agreed, axle and hub should be clean and dry. But this damage looks more to me like it was caused by an improperly positioned axle key.

[studeski]

Dwain is right. The key was installed wrong.

Studeski

Claude Chmielewski
Studeski

http://www.studeski.com

Fillmore, Wisconsin
47 M-16 Truck
62 GT Hawk
63 Lark
64 Commander Wagonaire
50 Champion Regal (parts car)
63 GT Hawk R2
[img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]

[showbizkid]

How do you install the key wrong? I want to avoid doing that!


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[studeski]

My friend Keith alerted me to this thread. Here is what he wrote. He made it convenient for me as I type real slow.

To cause the damage as shown in the photos, the key would need to ride up the radiused part of the axle taper, as the drum was tightened. This is what caused the distortion bump, in the area where the seal rides.
A hub that was overtightened would crack lengthwise with the key, but would not produce a bump like that.
Lastly, A hub that was not properly seated, or with the nut slightly loose, can crack from driveline torque, noticeable when going from forward to reverse. This is a familiar sound on a Studebaker, if you listen to a few. If left like that, failures can occur.

Also, the key needs to be positioned with the tapered end facing the axle, on the inside end. If the key is not positioned that way, it can dig into the axle shaft, causing a stress raiser. A nick on that part of the axle shaft, could eventually cause a crack of the axle itself, leading to eventual breakage.

The best way to avoid the key riding up, is to install the key after the drum is seated, just before the nut is tightened. Sometimes this may be a little tricky, if the axle threads are burred slightly.

When I do it, I leave the key stick out about 1/4" and use a brass drift to position the key flush with the outer end of the hub.

If you paid somebody, to do the work and they had the key slip forward damaging the hub, you should ask for a refund.

Claude Chmielewski
Studeski

http://www.studeski.com

Fillmore, Wisconsin
47 M-16 Truck
62 GT Hawk
63 Lark
64 Commander Wagonaire
50 Champion Regal (parts car)
63 GT Hawk R2
[img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]

[tomhoo]

This topic brought a smile to my face. Yep, me too. Been there, done that.

[StudeRich]

quote:Originally posted by showbizkid

How do you install the key wrong? I want to avoid doing that!

I can simplify it for you Clark: the Axle Key goes with the beveled end (taper) down and INBOARD also DRY! ...when the axle slot is facing UP.

I like simple!

Some of you may want to remember also that the Axles did change about 1957, the keyway is longer in the older axles on assemblies and loose axles, so you must have the LONG or Short Axle Key to match. [:0]

After 40-50 years, a '63 just MAY have, a '55 Axle Assem. or Axles in it, unless you knew it from birth!
The older axle housings have the plugs to remove & install kerks to grease Brgs. and a drain plug on the Diff.

StudeRich