Still no ignition - frustration city!

[Guest]

62 Stude V8 in my 63 Lark sedan, rebuilt and not started yet. Installed a Pertronix module but never got a spark from the coil wire.
Ran some tests on the module, per the company and it looked like the Ignitor was bad. I mailed it back to them.

With nothing to do for the car in the meantime I decided to dig thru my distributor box and found a P'lite with a decent looking set of points. The gap was .013 or close enough, I cleaned it up, put a few drops of oil in, hooked things up and still no spark.

Removed the new Flame Thrower coil and replaced it with a good used 12v coil I had. Still no spark from the coil wire. Looks like the coil isn't getting voltage to begin with, right?

Where should I be looking now?

[bige]

Simple test is to run a jumper wire to the + side of the coil to the + side of the battery. Do that and you eliminate all but the coil and condenser as problems.

I'm going to ask a silly question...you are sure the distributor is turning when you crank. Busted timing gear keeps the cam from moving, Just a random thought.

ErnieR


R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006________________ 1988 "Beater" Avanti

[Guest]

Thanks Ernie - No silly questions asked of me; I'm a rank amateur at this.
I installed an aluminum cam gear in the rebuild and yes, the dist. is turning.
Will try the jumper test, thanks!

[bige]

BTW, car won't shut off with the key if you get it started with the jumper. You need to pull the wire off to shut it down. You won't hurt anything doing this. I drove 75 miles with my '65 Plymouth hotwired that way when I lost my keys on the beach. Long term the points would not last as long with a full 12 to the coil all the time.




R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006________________ 1988 "Beater" Avanti

[Guest]

Dang, I tried the hotwire and still nothing!
I have the center wire coming out of the coil about 1/4" away from a good ground.

Using a remote switch on the solenoid's S terminal and battery side. Bud suggested I remove the wire from the I terminal of sol.

[StudeRich]

quote:Originally posted by tomnoller

Dang, I tried the hotwire and still nothing!
I have the center wire coming out of the coil about 1/4" away from a good ground.
Using a remote switch on the solenoid's S terminal and battery side. Bud suggested I remove the wire from the I terminal of sol.

Tom;
That test was to check the Pink resistance wire, it gives 6-9 volts in that mode, you want to reconnect it now to get 12V if you are using the key switch, if you are hot wiring it to the batt. it does NOT matter.

You must have too much paint on the block so the Dist. is not grounded you also should have the ground wire from the right engine mount to the frame, but it only effects body mounted items like lights if the batt. is grounded well to the block.

StudeRich

[StudeRich]

quote:Originally posted by tomnoller

Dang, I tried the hotwire and still nothing!
I have the center wire coming out of the coil about 1/4" away from a good ground.
Using a remote switch on the solenoid's S terminal and battery side. Bud suggested I remove the wire from the I terminal of sol.

Tom;
That test was to check the Pink resistance wire, it gives 6-9 volts in that mode, you want to reconnect it now to get 12V if you are using the key switch, if you are hot wiring it to the batt. it does NOT matter.

You must have too much paint on the block so the Dist. is not grounded you also should have the ground wire from the right engine mount to the frame, but it only effects body mounted items like lights if the batt. is grounded well to the block.

You DO have a good Prestolite dog bone shaped ROTOR in there right, and good contacts inside the Cap including the center carbon rod, it may be NEW but N/G you know?

StudeRich

[Dick Steinkamp]

Tom,
If you have a test light or voltmeter...

#1 make sure you have power to the coil (either with or without the jumper direct from the battery)

#2 see if you have intermittent power to the - side of the coil when you are cranking the engine (as the points open and close). If you do, either the coil or the condenser are bad. If you don't you have a short in the distributor, or the disty isn't properly grounded.



Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[bige]

Well...

You are going to the + side with 12 volts right?

And you are confident of the coil.

Once you put the jumper wire on disconnecting the wire from the solenoid has no effect. It will affect trying to start without a jumper wire that's where the full 12 volts comes from while you are cranking.

The other part of the puzzle is something to fire the coil. That occurs when the points open or when the lobe passes the Pertonix module, that's why I asked about the distributor turning. With the jumper still connected, cap off, spin the engine and see if there's a little spark from the points. If there isn't a spark the condenser may be bad on your points distributor.

Next silly question...how about the wire from the coil to the distributor cap? Another longshot but if you are checking at the distributor end you are not eliminating the coil wire as the culprit.

ErnieR


R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006________________ 1988 "Beater" Avanti

[Chucks Stude]

I had the wire from the coil to the points break inside the insulator on the distributor. Took forever to find.

[Jerry Forrester]

Corroded points???

...............................................

I am in the process of getting parts and pieces gathered up for the May 2010 South Bend Swap meet. How about you?

Jerry Forrester
Forrester's Chrome
Douglasville, Georgia
Be sure to check out my eBay store

http://stores.ebay.com/CHROME-CHROME-CHROME

for your shiny Stude stuff.

More pix of Leo the '55 Pres HT here...http://tinyurl.com/2gj6cu

[buddymander]

Run a jumper cable clamped around the distributor base to battery negative post, just to eliminate a bad ground problem. IF you ground the negative wire coming from the coil and then unground it, a spark should jump from the coil wire.

[bige]

Usually the base clamp would be enough to ground the distributor. Remember, there's supposed to be a gasket between the distributor and the block so paint between base and block isn't an issue.


R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006________________ 1988 "Beater" Avanti

[buddymander]

Yes but when folks are jacking with the timing, sometimes they leave the bolt loose enough to prevent ground.

[curt]

I think the distributor point gap is too small. What is the spec?
The small wire entering the distributor, check for being grounded.
Condensor, just replace it.
My two cents worth, good luck.