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rear fender alignment c/k

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  • rear fender alignment c/k

    Is there an overlap in the panels, fender to body, at the tail light end of the quarter? Did the two panels ever meet flush a this point, or is it OK to have one noticeably above the other? If one is above the other, is this a place to use some sort of sealer? Thanks for the help. I'm getting closer. / 55 commander K in Ontario, Canada.
    Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

  • #2
    Can you post a picture of the area you are having a problem with?

    The fender overlaps the body and is bolted down under the stainless trim cap. At the tail light end, the cap ends about 1" or so before the end of the panel. The top surface of the fender should align with the body and the 2 panels just butt tight against each other at that spot. There is a visible seam there just above the top of the tail light body. The fender should not be higher or lower than the body at that point. Studebacker put some sort of caulk in the gap but it wasn't really to hide the seam. I think it was more to keep muck from the wheels that spashed up from coming out.

    Jeff in ND

    '53 Champion Hardtop

    Jeff in ND

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    • #3
      Thanks, Jeff. I have opened up a photobucket account and have the pics of the whole restore, so far. Just learning how to export them. The first time is a killer. Will get on it right after work You have answered the biggest puzzle: at the seam just above tail light housing the two panels should line up at the same level. Re: photobucket, I can try to post one picture to the forum, but can I also make a link so everyone can see ALL the pictures, without slowing down everyone's computer?
      Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

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      • #4
        Remember, that is a production car and not everything came out perfect.
        Klif

        55 Speedster
        63 Avanti R2
        63 Lark R2
        55 Speedster/Street Machine
        63 Avanti R2
        64 Convertible R1

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        • #5
          Use the taillight housing that you are GOING TO USE on that side... to position the rear of the quarter.

          Here's how I put them on:
          1) run a bead of 3M- Fast 'n Firm Body Seam Sealer along the outer edge of the lock-pillar, and the inner edge of the quarter where it snugs up against the pillar (both sides of the gasket). Be SURE to use the gasket that was originally located here- or a new one. This is held by the (3)large-washered bolts located behind the body-plugs on the jamb of the pillar.



          2) Put another bead of sealer along the face of the body-shell where the (2) screws hold the top-front of the panel (where the T-strip goes). I keep the sealer near the level of the clips. The (2) screws are installed from the inside of the shell- below the quarter windows.(see above pic)

          3) Put a SMALL bead of sealer on the "T"-strip and squish it against the body in the proper position. While it's held in place, put another SMALL bead on the outward face of the "T"-strip



          4) Put a MEDIUM-size bead of sealer along the OUTER edge of the body-shell where the quarter sits on TOP of the shell (outside the row of clips) Then smaller beads around each clip-hole.

          5) Put a small bead of sealer near the TOP-REAR of the body shell- where the 2-panels meet.

          6) Install the quarter by tipping it outward at the bottom about 10-degrees. Hang it on the top of the row of clips- and install a few screws through the slotted holes- just to hold it in place. Be sure the rear of the quarter is outside the small taillight mounting panel.

          7) SLOWLY lower the quarter and align it with the FRONT edge of the lock pillar. Press the quarter into the sealers.

          8) Install the FRONT bolts on the lock pillar- and the (2) screws under the quarter window- DO NOT TIGHTEN.



          9) Align the front corner of the quarter with the lock-pillar, and adjust the HEIGHT of the quarter so the T-strip fits flush. Tighten the FRONT INNER SCREWS, and the FIRST screw under the fender moulding.

          10) SNUG the BOLTS that go through the lock-pillar- carefully aligning it with the shape of the door, and matching the rocker (if there)... if the rocker is missing- temporarily hold it in place and use it as an alignment marker. Install the FRONT-LOWER fender-bolt located UNDER the car body. Use shims to adjust to match the rocker panel.



          11) Move to the REAR of the quarter- and install all the bolts that hold the quarter panel to the rear taillight-mounting panel. DO NOT TIGHTEN them until you have aligned the quarter panel with the taillight housing YOU WILL BE USING ON THAT SIDE... do NOT assume all the housings are the same size and shape! THEN Tighten the bolts..

          12) Install and snug all the quarter-panel top screws.

          13) Snug ALL BOLTS and SCREWS.






          Ray


          Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
          Ray

          www.raylinrestoration.com
          Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

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          • #6
            Wonderful. Thanks, Ray. I have the CE T strips and new SI repopped tail light housings. I have the rubber seals and new baffles. I collected a few fenders but the originals have been repaired with CE panels and are going back on. I may have to re and re the fenders at final fit and finish stage so I won't use any sealer until I know all is well. I'm still unsure about the mating of panels from the end of the stainless to the tail light housing, but I'll use the housings I intend to keep on it for fit.
            Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by warrlaw1

              Wonderful. Thanks, Ray. I have the CE T strips and new SI repopped tail light housings. I have the rubber seals and new baffles. I collected a few fenders but the originals have been repaired with CE panels and are going back on. I may have to re and re the fenders at final fit and finish stage so I won't use any sealer until I know all is well. I'm still unsure about the mating of panels from the end of the stainless to the tail light housing, but I'll use the housings I intend to keep on it for fit.
              They just butt-up against each other. The OEM fit isn't great because of the overlap. You can do a little hammer/dolly work there to get a nice level gap, but the seam needs to remain. I seal that gap with F/F Seam Sealer.. just prior to sealing and painting the car. Press it in real good, and wipe off the excess... wait about 1-hour for it to skin-over ... and then start the painting.

              Ray


              Specializing in Studebaker Restoration
              Ray

              www.raylinrestoration.com
              Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

              Comment


              • #8
                10-4, Ray! My retired hotrod buddy who has been so patient has been doing almost everything solo. He's a Mopar man and this is his first Stude resto. I supply the parts and equipment, he does the work, then re-does it, then... you get the idea. When he gets discouraged I come here for insight or I get him a new toy. He now owns a "Roto2000" rotisserie, and for Christmas I just bought him the 7 piece set of "Dura-Blocks". I have uploaded pics to photobucket and I'll get them posted, soon, I promise. Thanks for the help.
                Dave Warren (Perry Mason by day, Perry Como by night)

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