front brakes

[stelma]

can anyone help me find brakes for my 1961 studebaker lark? i have 11" drums on it i don't know if someone put these on from a different type of studebaker or if i have a rare one. i just bought the car from a older gentleman and he said the car was on the road a year ago but the car seems to have been sitting for a lot longer than that. i started with the master cyl. wich he included with the car and put on new wheel cyls. and know the shoes need to be replaced. all the local parts stores say their computers call for 10.5" brakes but i know how to read a tape mesure and i have 11" drums can any one help me? or mabe explain why i have these brakes on my lark and where did they come from?

[mbstude]

The only place to get new front shoes for a '54-66 V8 Stude is from the Studebaker vendors. (www.studebakerparts.com is a good one). Wagner discontinued them for whatever reason, even though you can still get most any other brake shoe for a Stude.

Oh, and welcome.

[Carl Purdy]

I always take my drums and shoes to a Clutch and brake place and have lining put on and drums turned. They fit the shoes to the drums. But you have to keep the shoes and drums together.

7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2

http://ozarktrails.tripod.com/

Studebaker Diners Club

[Dick Steinkamp]

1954-1966 Studebakers (including Larks) with drum brakes with a 6 cylinder engine had 10" front and 9" rear drums. With a V8 engine, they had 11" front and 10" rear drums. There are no 10.5" drums.

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[stelma]

quote:Originally posted by mbstude

The only place to get new front shoes for a '54-66 V8 Stude is from the Studebaker vendors. (www.studebakerparts.com is a good one). Wagner discontinued them for whatever reason, even though you can still get most any other brake shoe for a Stude.

Oh, and welcome.

thanks for the info!!!! this is my first studebaker and so far my wife and i really love it! i haven't got to the back brakes yet but they are next. so i don't have a rare stude, people are just looking in the wrong place. that's what happens when auto parts stores hire high school kids that know nothing but how read a computer screen. i'm looking foward to getting this bad boy on the road, as soon as i do, i will post some pics. looking forward to informing everybody on the progress.thank you everybody for the help

[buddymander]

Welcome to the forum!!

[doug]

If you are not familiar with tapered axles, get the proper puller before you start on the rear drums.

[StudeRich]

Ditto, what my friend Doug said!

IMPORTANT!
Buy, borrow or rent a COMMONLY available three legged tapered axle puller or the equivalent round style, that pulls on all 5 studs, even better! Before you even think about a rear brake job. [:0]

Stude. Club Members and Stude. Vendors have them for borrow or RENT! [^]

These are an absolute NECESSITY on any pre-mid 1965 Stude. with tapered axles.
Also get the paper Book or CD version of the Original Factory Issue Shop Manual, Chassis Parts Catalog and Body Parts Catalog for your year of Stude. and you will always have the correct info handy. [^]

And Welcome to our Forum and Club, membership info is at the top of the Main Forum Page.

StudeRich

[sbca96]

quote:Originally posted by stelma
that's what happens when auto parts stores hire high school kids that know nothing but how read a computer screen.

Some can't even do that, I find myself getting behind the counter and
using their computer to get parts for my modern cars!

Idiocracy is coming!

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[mbstude]

I went into the local O'Reilly's today to get some stuff for my Stude. Of course, I did work there for a year so I know where all the books are.

[StudeRich]

quote:Originally posted by mbstude

I went into the local O'Reilly's today to get some stuff for my Stude. Of course, I did work there for a year so I know where all the books are.

BOOKS GOOD! Computer, UGH! [}] [xx(] [xx(]

StudeRich

[Swifster]

I sent the guy an e-mail regarding the rear drum puller. He seemed pretty happy the other day. I hope he reread this thread and my e-mail before tackling the rears.

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

[57studechampion]

Tom if you are refering to me, 57Studechampion I did read it all and agree DO NOT attempt without the right puller. It sure makes it easier. Remember not to take the axle nut completely off until it breaks loose of the brakes. If you do watch your knucles and anything else in the way.
Don

[Swifster]

quote:Originally posted by 57studechampion

Tom if you are refering to me, 57Studechampion I did read it all and agree DO NOT attempt without the right puller. It sure makes it easier. Remember not to take the axle nut completely off until it breaks loose of the brakes. If you do watch your knucles and anything else in the way.
Don

Don, I was referring to the OP. He said the back brakes were next...[B)]

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Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2161.27)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)