Part of my studeducation: Paint Jobs

[stude62]

I have a couple questions that I request your input on:

1) In general, for a 62-63 Lark, what do paint jobs run (ball park) for sedans with minimal suface rust (solid metal, just a few stone chips) - and and good chrome? I mean, am old enough to remember Earl Schieb, but I know that paint jobs aren't any car, any color, just $99 anymore! -and -

2) How do they match the colors so they mimic factory original?

Again, I'm new to all this, so I am eager to learn.



Stu K

"If not now, when?"

[Milaca]

I don't know much but I was quoted $6000 3 years ago for repainting a '64 Daytona hardtop that looked to be very solid. This was a quote from my neighbors body shop.


Brent's rootbeer racer.
MN iron ore...it does your body good.

[COMMANDERPINK1]

Hey Stu , dont take this in the wrong way, I work in the collision repair busines and it reminds of when people would call you up and ask over the phone what a repair would cost. No it wont be cheap. Theres so much involved in a price: metal work, previous paint work, removing of bright work, paint stripping, single stage or dual stage paint are just some examples. Then do you have your friend of a friend do it in his single car garage or the rod restoration shop two cities over? Take the car to a couple of respectible business and get some quotes and when you do decide on who does the work get a stone cold price and what work will be performed. GOOD LUCK

TOM

[Gunslinger]

They can match the factory colors...most shops...at least good shops, have paint manufacturer books going back many decades for paint colors with modern formulas to match them. Many shops can also computer match the color if a color code can't be found.

Also...expect hidden problems to show up once trim, old paint, etc., has been removed that was invisible prior to the estimate being given.

For any quality paint job there are three rules...preparation, preparation, preparation!




Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

[dean pearson]

I recently went with a friend to drop off his 50 furd truck at the body shop to get painted just to see what I am in store for when I get ready to paint my car.
When the shop owner walked the truck what he seemed to look at was how straight it was, how hard it was going to be to take apart plus he mentioned how much bondo was found in the stripping process could have an effect then plus of course the type of paint and number of coats, do you want a clear coat over that, on and on.

In the end he wanted to give his body man a chance to look it over and said he would get back with a price and time frame for completion.

Next day my friend got a quote of $6800.00 and six weeks to do the work due to the fact that they are a collision shop and work on projects like his in between other jobs.

After negotiating he got them down to $5500.00 by eliminating some frills that you don't need on a furd truck that is only for driving to Home Depot and back.

Please note that this is in Ca. where everything costs more.
Good luck,

Dean.

[j.byrd]

Hi, Stude62, a bit more inside from a past painter, when I first started painting in 72, a gallon of cheap brand black or white was $11.00 and a gallon of Ford "candy apple red" for a 66 Mustang was $45.00 here in Alabama. Premium brands were a bit more, but not too much more. The last bit of painting I did on my wife's daily driver was a small lower panel color to make her car two-tone to stand out from the other billion just like it and the cost for the QUART of color, the reducer, the activator and the clear topcoat and it's activator was nearly $250.00. This does not include tape, sandpaper, masking paper, electricity, misc. well, you probably get the idea. One of my friends paid nearly 4 thousand just for the can of color he chose, so it is really all over the place. Please try to understand there is a lot of expense the guy will have just getting supplies, not to mention his personal expenses to operate. It has gotten so "legal problem'd" and expensive that I have quit doing jobs for others. There is also absolutely no way a fellow can make an accurate estimate without seeing it. Even then, some things pop out unexpectedly. Good luck, paint it like you will like it and it will be preserved longer and bring more for the condition if you do have to let it go someday. Sorry for the length of this reply, just don't be shocked if it's pretty expensive. John

[1950 Champion RegalDeluxe]

Even with a professional shop, you need to make sure that you and they have a clear understanding in writing in regards to what you need or want done and how you want it done.

Many years ago I worked for a shop that had a great reputation still took a lot of shortcuts when it came to body work.

Metal replacement was often quoted, but rarely happened.

[V]

[55champion]

In the last 20 years I have done 12 cars,all of which got a new paint job at the end.My thoughts are that you can do a cheap paint job or a good paint job. The cheap one never really looks good and the good one is going to cost you.I agree with what has been said about the cost of materials ect. one thing you need to do is look at the shops work that has been done to other cars.
The same shop has done all my work and I have never been dissapointed. Price on the last car $5000. Quote on my 55 Sedan around $6000. Good luck with yours.

[stude62]

quote:Originally posted by COMMANDERPINK1

Hey Stu , dont take this in the wrong way, I work in the collision repair busines and it reminds of when people would call you up and ask over the phone what a repair would cost. No it wont be cheap. Theres so much involved in a price: metal work, previous paint work, removing of bright work, paint stripping, single stage or dual stage paint are just some examples. Then do you have your friend of a friend do it in his single car garage or the rod restoration shop two cities over? Take the car to a couple of respectible business and get some quotes and when you do decide on who does the work get a stone cold price and what work will be performed. GOOD LUCK
TOM

Not taken the wrong way - just need a ball park, not an actual estimate. Didn't know if was 1,000, didn't know if it was 8,000 or maybe 9,000.

I do know that if I keep this car will have to get the top, hood and trunk lid done.



Stu K

"If not now, when?"

[Swifster]

This is just my personal experience with people having a vintage car of any kind painted. What ever the car is, it's a Corvette. Why? Because when you pick up that car, the expectation is show car quality. No one wants waves down the side if the car. No one wants dirt and debris in the paint. No one wants overspray. No one wants the paint peeling off in three years.

As a previous post stated, preparation, preparation, preparation.

If you can find Dick Steinkamp's thread on painting the '63 Hawk that he had, it will give you great insite on what it took to do a 1st Class paint job. I think $6000 is cheap.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

[Milaca]

My dad didnt want to spend 5 or 6 grand at the neighbors bodyshop for repainting his 1966 Mustang, so he found another bodyshop that quoted him only $1800, and this included repairing some minor front fender rust! Keep in mind that this bodyshop has done and can do nice work. Well,the yellow paint was glossy....which made the existing paint chips very apparent and the lack of fresh paint at the bottom edges of the doors was quite noticeable also! The shop apparently didnt sand the old paint...they could have at least put some body putty in the chips! From what I now understand, this bodyshop offer various qualities or levels of refinishing, depending on how much you want to pay. So, make sure you know what you are getting when quoted so that you don't end up dissappointed like my dad.


Brent's rootbeer racer.
MN iron ore...it does your body good.

[jnormanh]

The Hot Rod guys, who are very particular about paint jobs would expect to spend not less than $10K, and that's with no body repair.

You could remove the trim and do whatever bodywork is necessary yourself, and MAACO would paint it for $500. It will look okay for a driver, but you won't bring home any trophies.

As a rule of thumb, I wouldn't spend more than 20% of the car's finished value on paint. A $10K paint job won't add much more value than a $500 job on a Lark.

Good chrome? If you have it all replated, maybe $2000.

[jclary]

Your other option is one I have seen on a TV program. I have Direct TV and on channel 281 there is a program called "Wheeler Dealer." This is a British program and the host finds a used car to "fix up" for resale. His mechanic is a kinda "Jack of all Trades" guy. I have seen them paint entire panels with aerosol cans.[:0] They look pretty good on TV, but I have often wondered what they actually look like up close. I have actually seen them use the can paint on high end cars. Due to the expense of paint, I am kicking around the idea of painting the "Beater" truck I am working on with a common industrial enamel. Rustoleum's hunter green has been around for half a century and will probably be around for a long time yet. If I go that route, anytime I need a touch up ... Lowes or Home Depot is usually around the corner.

John Clary
Greer, SC

Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
SDC member since 1975

[avantilover]

I made some inquiries of a shop here that does restorations (highest quality) and they said a high quality paint job will cost around 10-14k including paint and materials. This doesn't include rust work,panel beating,labour to disassemble etc.

John Clements
Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
Lockleys South Australia

[jimmijim8]

A $10K paint job won't add much more value than a $500 job on a Lark.



[/quote] This is the only thing that I agree with in this whole topic so far. {What is quoted above}. My view is there are plenty of places out there to offer a quality paint job for 2 grand or under. Don't expect the highest grade or type of paint and don't think your gonna take them in a turd and drive out with a gleaming hunk of candy. Firstly,I don't believe the majority or minority of cars need the most high tech, high price, supreme, gift from the gods, revered {by some} type of paint. There are quite a number of brands and types of paints out there. You get what you pay for doesn't mean that a basic enamel paint {bout the most inexpensive type of paint and probably what was originally used on your car] is going to look like crap on your car compared to paint costing 5 times as much. An incompetent{beginner, not very good painter} can slop up a car with any type of paint just as a competent one can produce with the lower cost stuff or the creme of the crop stuff. If your car is only in need of a paint job then good for ya. If it needs body work + paint, it's two different animals costing two different prices. You folks telling of paint jobs. Are you speaking of disassembly, body work,assembly or what? Lets be a bit more clear of the subject when someone is asking for an answer that requires only a basic answer. Someone paying 6000-and up for a paint only job doesn't mean that a 2000 enamel or acrylic enamel paint only job won't be as presentable. Maybe the enamel will fail sooner than the elite formula but you may never live to see it depending on your age. Just cause you overpaid for a nice paint job doesn't require you to rationalize to yourself its worth by passing on the info to someone that is asking a question and needs a real answer and not a real life experience someone had. If you have never painted a car or have little experience in the practice how can you offer this guy an answer that is truly of any relevance? No wonder some people get upside down in their cars. jimmijim

Stude Junkie+++++++Do it right the f$$$$ Time. Never mind. Just do it right. When youre done your done. You'll know it.