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Lark8girl
11-25-2009, 11:08 PM
The heater control valve is stuck, and has a slight leak out the top on Lark VIII girl's 1960 Lark.
Can this be taken apart, cleaned and rebuilt at home or is it best to replace with a rebuilt unit?

thank you,
Husband of Lark VIII girl

JDP
11-25-2009, 11:27 PM
quote:Originally posted by Lark8girl

The heater control valve is stuck, and has a slight leak out the top on Lark VIII girl's 1960 Lark.
Can this be taken apart, cleaned and rebuilt at home or is it best to replace with a rebuilt unit?

thank you,
Husband of Lark VIII girl



You can buy a repair kit which is nothing more than a rubber disk, but it's hard to take apart and put back together without the tabs breaking off.

JDP/Maryland

studebakerkid
11-26-2009, 08:28 AM
Non of my rigs have the original valve or a rubber flap replacement. I use a ball valve installed inline. You just open or close it when the weather changes when you are checking your oil level. I had the original heater control valve quit on me about an hour before a hot date almost thirty years ago. One of these days it might show up in the field when I plow the firebreak.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

unclemiltie
11-26-2009, 02:19 PM
The original heater valve on the 60 Lark is not the Ranco style valve where you can replace the round disc. This one can be taken apart and cleaned if it is not frozen to bad. Take it off and soak it in some WD40, Kroil, Rust Buster or other such product for a couple days before attempting to work on it. You will have to remove the rivet or bolt from the lever on top, then you will be able use wrenches to remove the top fitting. I have ruined some getting them apart and others have cleaned up nicely. Are you sure it is not the cable going to the valve that is frozen? Try removing the cable from the valve on the right front fender apron and see if you can move the valve by hand. These original valves are getting hard to find and are getting pricy. Most vendors sell a replacement valve.

Milt

1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
1961 Hawk
1964 Convertable
1967 Avanti
1961 Lark 2 door
1950 Commander Starlight

Lark8girl
11-26-2009, 08:32 PM
Thanks for your reply Milt.

Will try your solution.

As part of my Diag. I did unhook the cable and it was operative , and I lubricated it.

Looks like a cool trip to South Bend for the foundry tour.

Husband of Lark VIII girl.

jclary
11-26-2009, 08:54 PM
I am one of those folks who operates on the theory that if somebody put something together...I can take it apart and put it back together. Sometimes this gets me into trouble. Out of curiosity...I took one of those old valves apart to see how it was made.The actuating rod that runs through the valve is sealed by a very tightly packed fibrous material that is impregnated with graphite as a way to make it permanently lubricated. I don't think that "permanent" really meant 50 plus years! I have freed them up by using a penetrating oil and retightening the packing nut on top of the valve. That is where you have to be careful. You can crank on the packing nut to where it causes the thing to bind and not operate. If you are working on a driver, you can use a ball valve and attach the cable to the handle and still operate it from inside the car. It just takes a little mechanical ingenuity to attach the cable. I have done it on big trucks.

John Clary
Greer, SC
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Lenny R2
11-26-2009, 10:37 PM
What size ball valve would i get i need it for 3/4 heater hose on a 62 Champ.

Lenny
Atlanta Ga.

Tom B
11-26-2009, 11:09 PM
Strange as it seems, anything larger than 1/2 inch is wasted. For heater control, 3/8 probably would be enough.

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Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
....On the road, again....
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

jackb
11-27-2009, 08:11 AM
.....and if you're not driving the car in cold weather: bring a sweatshirt or light jacket...and disconnect the system or once you set the ball valve or aftermarket in-line valve in your plumbing, you can always close the air intake and do a fair job regulating hot air into the seating area...

jimmijim8
11-27-2009, 09:28 AM
The packing might be the same stuff that is available from a hardware store or plumbing supply. I had some that was Like a 1/8 to maybe 3/16 thick , plenty long length of like dark gray twine impregnated with graphite. It is used for packing under the nut that encircles the stem of many brass valves such as your garden hose valve on the outside of your home and larger. I think it is possibly used as a universal replacement if you can not find the original size packing. Just wind it around the stem enough so as to seal the area [8D]under the retaining nut. Hope this may help.[8D]Anybody know about this?[?] jimmijim

Stude Junkie+++++++Do it right the f$$$$ Time. Never mind. Just do it right. When youre done your done. You'll know it.

jclary
11-27-2009, 11:21 AM
quote:Originally posted by jimmijim8

The packing might be the same stuff that is available from a hardware store or plumbing supply.


I agree that the original material is likely very similar. However, if you take one of these apart it becomes obvious that they were originally packed very tightly in some type of manufacturing jig. The plumbing string type packing might work as a supplement as long as you leave most of the original in place. I have just recently noticed that the one in my truck has seized again to the point that I have broken the end of my cable wire. Time for a little seasonal maintenance.