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Cruiser64
08-22-2006, 08:42 AM
I posted this last night under 62beaters "split brakes" but have been advised to start a new thread as the cars are so different. I also read the 7/6 post but before I tear into it I thought I should gather as much info as possible (in other words, pick your brains some more:D


My '64 Cruiser power brakes with the single cylinder of death are
really starting to scare me. I did a complete rebuild oh, 5 years ago now; new rebuilt booster, new rebuilt MC, new lines, new WC's, rebuilt calipers etc. Now that single MC always made me a little jumpy so I'v been worrying over maybe swapping to a split MC, only I have never been able to find the TQ on the swap, if its up to me I will loose the power booster, go back to manual split disk/drum set up like on my mopars. Works, firm pedal, one less thing to sweat. what brought this on was bake fluid pouring out between the booster and MC so it looks like I am in for the repair anyway.

Keep up the good work. the tech talk has been a god send for me & my Cruiser cruiser. RR



64 Cruiser
72 Valiant Scamp440
70 Duster340

johnesmonde
08-22-2006, 10:57 PM
I have a '62 Hawk that had power drum brakes and a single reservoir M/C. When I installed a Turner disc brake kit on the front. I also changed to a dual M/C. This meant I lost the power booster. The new disc/drum brakes were terrible and I was very disappointed. The problem turned out to be the brake pedal. The original brake pedal was for power brakes and had a different fulcrum, shape and metering rod for the M/C than a standard brake pedal. When I found and installed a standard brake pedal and metering rod I had excellent standard brakes without the booster.

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

Lana_Cruiser
07-28-2007, 09:40 AM
RR, Did you ever resolve the single cylinder of death issue on your 64 Cruiser? Here's why, I have the EXACT same problem...drum all around, leaking between the MC & PA units. Were you able to find a Dual cylinder that would bolt on??


quote:Originally posted by Cruiser64

I posted this last night under 62beaters "split brakes" but have been advised to start a new thread as the cars are so different. I also read the 7/6 post but before I tear into it I thought I should gather as much info as possible (in other words, pick your brains some more:D


My '64 Cruiser power brakes with the single cylinder of death are
really starting to scare me. I did a complete rebuild oh, 5 years ago now; new rebuilt booster, new rebuilt MC, new lines, new WC's, rebuilt calipers etc. Now that single MC always made me a little jumpy so I'v been worrying over maybe swapping to a split MC, only I have never been able to find the TQ on the swap, if its up to me I will loose the power booster, go back to manual split disk/drum set up like on my mopars. Works, firm pedal, one less thing to sweat. what brought this on was bake fluid pouring out between the booster and MC so it looks like I am in for the repair anyway.

Keep up the good work. the tech talk has been a god send for me & my Cruiser cruiser. RR



64 Cruiser
72 Valiant Scamp440
70 Duster340

studegary
07-28-2007, 04:47 PM
Lana Cruiser - Be advised that you do NOT "...have the EXACT same problem..." Cruiser64 has a disc/drum set up whereas you state that you have an all drum set up. If you are referring to your '64 Cruiser, it came from the factory with a dual master cylinder while the '64 Cruiser with disc/drums came from the factory with a single master cylinder.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

1959 DeLuxe pickup (restomod)

r1lark
07-28-2007, 05:39 PM
quote:Originally posted by Lana_Cruiser

RR, Did you ever resolve the single cylinder of death issue on your 64 Cruiser? Here's why, I have the EXACT same problem...drum all around, leaking between the MC & PA units. Were you able to find a Dual cylinder that would bolt on??


quote:Originally posted by Cruiser64

I posted this last night under 62beaters "split brakes" but have been advised to start a new thread as the cars are so different. I also read the 7/6 post but before I tear into it I thought I should gather as much info as possible (in other words, pick your brains some more:D


My '64 Cruiser power brakes with the single cylinder of death are
really starting to scare me. I did a complete rebuild oh, 5 years ago now; new rebuilt booster, new rebuilt MC, new lines, new WC's, rebuilt calipers etc. Now that single MC always made me a little jumpy so I'v been worrying over maybe swapping to a split MC, only I have never been able to find the TQ on the swap, if its up to me I will loose the power booster, go back to manual split disk/drum set up like on my mopars. Works, firm pedal, one less thing to sweat. what brought this on was bake fluid pouring out between the booster and MC so it looks like I am in for the repair anyway.

Keep up the good work. the tech talk has been a god send for me & my Cruiser cruiser. RR



64 Cruiser
72 Valiant Scamp440
70 Duster340


Lana Cruiser,

After reading the posts a couple of times, it looks like you and RR have significantly different brake systems. RR’s car appears to be a disc brake system, since he mentions rebuilding the calipers. Yours appears to be a drum brake system, based on the comment “drums all around”. These two systems will take significantly different master cylinders.

Here is what I have used on similar cars:

[u]’63 Lark Daytona with disc brakes:</u> used a kit from Dave Thibeault that utilized a 1-1/8" bore master cylinder from a ’67-68 Dodge Monaco/Dodge Polara/Chrysler New Yorker/Chrysler 300/Plymouth Fury with Power Brakes and front discs. Here are some various numbers for this M/C:
Raybestos MC36259
NAPA UP36259
EIS E64874
SafeLine M64874
With this M/C, the adjustment of the booster push rod must be changed from the stock measurement to a new measurement of 0.900”. See the Shop Manual for the procedure on setting this measurement. A new brake line will have to be made from the M/C down to the junction block for the front brakes, and the original rear brake line disconnected from the junction block and properly plugged. The rear brakes connect to the front portion of the M/C, and will have to be tied into the existing rear brake line using the proper coupling. This would be a good time to replace all the brake lines and brake hoses if you are unsure of them. By the way, the ’64 Lark disc brake system will use the same master cylinder.

[u]’64 Commander with manual drum brakes:</u> used a Raybestos MC36237. This is a 1” bore M/C used on almost every drum brake AMC (manual and power brakes) car from ’64 thru ’76. Note that this car already had a dual master cylinder from the factory, but I chose to use an easily found replacement master cylinder versus rebuilding the original.

Will the Raybestos MC36237 work on a power drum brake car? I don’t know, since I have not tried this swap. The Studebaker Chassis Parts book calls out a different part number for a manual drum brake versus a power drum brake master cylinder, but both appear to be a 1” bore from references in aftermarket brake parts books. The difference is very p

Jackson
07-28-2007, 08:30 PM
I installed a dual MC on my 63 Lark R2 that came equiped with factory power disc brakes. Here is a list of all of the parts I used, all were from NAPA. 36307 MC, (2) 813-1204 lines, 131x3 fitting, 3220x4x2 fitting, 7909 fitting, 7910 fitting and 7933 fitting. The total cost for the all NAPA parts was under $90. I used the original brake light pressure switch and I had to adjust the original MC push rod to minimum.