Black Painted parts

[jtjim]

I am beginning a complete clean and paint in the engine compartment of my 64 Avanti. I am not sure of the gloss value of the black painted parts. I think it should be a semi-gloss. Is that right? I want to do this right the first time. Also, the area behind the grill is currently white. Was that area ever painted black?

1967 Riviera, 1964 Avanti R/2, 1953 Champion-R/1,4spd, Two 1967 Studebaker Gravely tractors

[Skip Lackie]

If you are talking about the black paint on things like starters and alternator brackets, Eastwood sells an Underhood Black that has the correct amount of gloss.

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[Studeman]

I have covered this many times before. The "ORIGINAL" paint used on these parts was a pretty cheap GLOSS black lacquer. It never was very "glossy" or have any depth at all. But did have a good SHINE- when first applied. It did deteriorate rapidly though. Especially when painted on rough un-finished surfaces under the hood in the heat. This is why everyone says theoriginal was semi-gloss.. Look at a properly stored NOS air cleaner or other "black" parts . I have one from a '55 and it's very glossy... but not by todays standards.

In the IM's and Zone Meets that I have attended and Judged at, they typically don't differentiate in the depth of the gloss. If it's the right color- and looks nice...NO POINTS OFF.

For my own restorations, I use gloss black urethane.. which is far glossier than 40 year old original black lacquer. So far, I haven't lost any points. I do flatten it slightly for the Dash and interior window-surrounds. This is a "safety" issue with reflections while driving. But, other than that- I use gloss black all the time.

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[tluz]

I've been using Rattle-can Rust-o-leum Gloss Black from Home Depot. It looks fine now, but I suspect it won't stay that way too long.

[Retired]

My Avanti. I used a good grade of gloss black rattle can paint with periodic coats of liquid autmobile polish, looks good for years. The master cyclinder was never painted but, I painted mine, polish the bare metal cover and copper instruction tag.

Richard

[StudeMichael]

I have found that gloss black Rustoleum tends to "dark grey" over time.

[WCP]

I agree with Studeman. Just look at factory photos of the Avanti assembly, and you will see the level of gloss evident. Black urethane, although very glossy at first, will eventually take on the initial factory appearance, after a few chassis rubdowns, if you drive the car much. The finish will withstand a lot of highway abuse.

[Warren Webb]

After I clean up an engine compartment I give it a shot of a tire shine product that gives things a nice clean shine that looks good. This takes the dull black & looks new again.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

[jtjim]

I used to spray a little armorall and wipe off the underhood area on my black GT Hawk. It made it look great. The only trouble is that it is a silicone product and if you try to paint anything later you have a problem. I received some information from the Avanti Owners magazine saying that the paint should be semi-gloss. I guess it is up to the individual. Thanks for the input.

1967 Riviera, 1964 Avanti R/2, 1953 Champion-R/1,4spd, Two 1967 Studebaker Gravely tractors

[barnlark]

I know we're discussing Avanti parts paint here, but since Ray discussed other years and their parts, I'll add this: I have two original parts that arrived recently in their original boxes, so they were stored safely since 1960. One is a '60 40 amp generator. It's not flat, but not gloss. It's what I would call semi-gloss with a very slight shine to it. The other is a 4 barrel air cleaner. It's not black gloss by today's standards, either. It's pretty much the same sheen as the generator, maybe a little more shiny. I bought a '64 taxi radiator in the factory crate for my car, too. It was closer to flat than it was gloss. Still what I would call semi-gloss, though; less shiny than the generator, though. A high heat black engine paint seems to be the right color and sheen, if you get the right one.
I see many radiators on the concours with a pretty high gloss paint job. They look really nice, but they aren't the factory sheen. If no one is docking points for the gloss, I'd paint it to your liking and make it it uniform. I painted power steering pumps low gloss, fan blades low gloss, valve covers gloss, oil pan low gloss, horns low gloss. To my eye, that seems to match the original '60 parts I've found. The Delco regulators come in the box with a higher gloss compared to everything else. I'm in division 8, but I try to keep the original color specs in my engine bay. They wouldn't dock points in my division for the incorrect sheen, though. All of it being a non-factory high gloss may actually do better.

If Studeman has had success with the gloss, I'd go with that. They're all winners.

[Skip Lackie]

Without wishing to belabor a minor detail, it's likely that not all items were painted the same. Things like starters and generators came from suppliers like Delco and Auto-Lite, and were not repainted by Studebaker. I have purchased several of those NOS in their original packaging, and the underhood black from Eastwood is a good match for those items.

Things like power steering pumps and air cleaners also came from outside firms and were installed without being repainted. As Barnlark noted, some of them were painted a somewhat more glossy black.

Radiators were supposedly painted (if at all) with a very thin finish that didn't restrict their heat-transfer ability. Certainly they weren't as glossy as what you see on many restored cars today.

Most of the black-painted items actually made by Studebaker that I've bought in their original packaging were painted with a thin but glossy finish. But as Ray has noted, none were done with a quality, automotive-finish type job. Their finish faded rapidly.

Bottom line: gloss back looks the best, and probably won't cost you any points if you get your vehicle judged.

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[DEEPNHOCK]

Well!
I am authentic by proxy!
I painted some parts in the kitchen, some in the shop, some in Florida, Illinois, Georgia...
Heck, I even painted some parts in motel rooms[:0]
Just like studebaker did
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Skip Lackie

Without wishing to belabor a minor detail, it's likely that not all items were painted the same. Things like starters and generators came from suppliers like Delco and Auto-Lite, and were not repainted by Studebaker. I have purchased several of those NOS in their original packaging, and the underhood black from Eastwood is a good match for those items.

Things like power steering pumps and air cleaners also came from outside firms and were installed without being repainted. As Barnlark noted, some of them were painted a somewhat more glossy black.

Radiators were supposedly painted (if at all) with a very thin finish that didn't restrict their heat-transfer ability. Certainly they weren't as glossy as what you see on many restored cars today.

Most of the black-painted items actually made by Studebaker that I've bought in their original packaging were painted with a thin but glossy finish. But as Ray has noted, none were done with a quality, automotive-finish type job. Their finish faded rapidly.

Bottom line: gloss back looks the best, and probably won't cost you any points if you get your vehicle judged.

Skip Lackie
Washington DC