View Full Version : Replacing Cork floats on Fuel Senders

Henry Votel
01-16-2007, 09:22 PM
Back in December Brad of bradnree posted a question about fixing or replacing the old cork floats on his fuel sending unit. I was in the same place wondering how to replace mine for my 1954 Champion Coupe as they were sinking and giving bad readings.

I did not find much from internet browsing, but I found a tidbit. Thought I would give my son Henry B. a chance to improve his computer skills by taking pics of the repair and making up the web page on this exercise.

Anyway, it was fun and it works very well for under $8.00.


Henry Votel
Forest Lake, MN

01-16-2007, 09:35 PM
Great step by step article!


DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)

01-16-2007, 11:38 PM
Very nicely done article and information that many of us may need. This would make a great article for TW.

Don Wilson
53 Commander Hardtop
64 Champ 1/2 ton
Centralia, WA

01-17-2007, 12:33 AM
Yep, need to archive tips like that, or we'll have to reinvent the wheel in the future.

Arnold Md.
Studebaker On The Net
My Ebay Items

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52 Starliner
51 Commander

01-17-2007, 01:31 AM
Excellent article, thanks Henry and Henry Jr.! [^][^]
This is a fix needed by many owners.

Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

01-17-2007, 02:14 AM
Henry Jr., I'll give you an A on the report and webpage. You'll also recieve another 100 points extra credit for the excellent quality and presentation.:D

Sorry, just couldn't help it(LOL).:D;) This is one of those things that needs to be on the Technical Data page off the home page. Perhaps Mr. Shaw could talk to you boys? Or perhaps vice-versa. Really, excellent job. We all need this kind of ingenious help. After all, there's a lot of aging corks out there (LOL)!:D Oh dear! I just can't help myself tonight![:I]

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

01-17-2007, 05:52 AM
It is so good to get the younger and future generation involved!!! My 48 Champion is in need of this repair. I will be making a copy of this. Thanks Henry and Henry!!!:)


01-17-2007, 04:11 PM
Super presentation. I know too much heat soldering will not only heat the float too much ( and burst) , but also will melt the floats solder.

01-17-2007, 06:51 PM
A permanent link to Henry's how-to has been added to the SDC Tech Tips page: http://www.studebakerdriversclub.com/techtips.asp

60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
Woodbury, Minnesota

01-17-2007, 06:55 PM
Many moons ago, don't ask how many[:I], I was into making jewlery. In that case, with silver solder, we would have to deal with soldering around precious stones. There is a product called Kool Jool (I think[8)]) that was very helpful. It wasn't expensive. All one had to do is spray it around whilst soldering to reduce the heat on the stone. It would prevent cracking them (something emeralds, rubies, turquoise,etc are prone to do). This might help with keeping the float from bursting or melting it's solder. Kool Jool is available at any hobby store that supplies jewlery needs.

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

01-17-2007, 09:22 PM
Great fix!

One question: By twisting a loop in the wire, you shortened the length between the float and the sender; as I see it, this alters the travel of the wire, altering the operation of the sender... correct? And if so, what is that effect?

My guess is this would make the gauge more sensitive to fuel movement...

Any other ideas?

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

01-17-2007, 09:28 PM
Thanks Bob!!:D

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

01-17-2007, 10:15 PM
Nice work, Henry. Thanks for taking the time to post it. I really don't think you need to solder it; evidentaly Ford doesn't.

If one is going to solder the float, though. It would make matters easier to "tin" the wire with solder beforehand. Shine it up real well with steel wool, tin it, and then when you go to solder it to the float, a quick dab with a hot soldering iron and you are done.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Henry Votel
01-17-2007, 10:21 PM
Hi Robert,

Good question. The wire originally was bent at a 90 angle, (see pics) to hold the cork floats. After removing the cork floats I made the loop from the 2-1/2 to 3 inches of wire where the corks were mounted. Then I had to twist the loop into position to hold the float as in the original configuration. The float sits very close to the original cork location. The wire was not shortened. Take a closer look at the pics.