Edelbrock Carb on '64 Cruiser, Help!

[Shane]

I'm going to put a Edelbrock #1403 500CFM on the 289. I've read the posts on this to get an idea, my buddy was telling me this should bolt right on without a spacer? My other question is the stock air filter to use it without cutting it up to fit, or would it be just as well to use after market unit that will fit and if so what should I look for? Thanks for your help.... Shane

<div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

[valleyguy]

The throttle linkage will hit the manifold so you
have to either raise the carb up a bit with a spacer or
cut some metal off the lower part of the linkage.

Joe D.

[Kurt]

The air cleaner won't fit either. You could modify it to fit, I suppose. I bought an edelbrock air cleaner at the same time I bought the carb.

66 Commander R1 Clone
51 Commander 4dr

[Studeman]

http://www.raylinrestoration.com/TechnicalPages/Carb/carbconversion.htm

Definately use the spacer. DO NOT cut up an OEM 4-barrel air cleaner. 2-barrels are cheap, but you will likely need an aftermarket for better air-flow. Our car would bog at high-speed due to the small airhorn of the original air cleaner

Ray


Specializing in Studebaker Restoration

[DEEPNHOCK]

Shane,
Ray has a good treatise here....
I can add a little to help you with your 'choices'

You only need the base spacer if you have an old WCFB intake.
(98.675% of all Stude 4bbl intakes are WCFB's...with only the choke stove tube differentiating them)
The secondary openings on an AFB intake (and the butterflies on the carb) are larger than a WCFB.
This will cause the butterflies to hit the smaller holes on the WCFB intake.
A thicker carb mount gasket spacer/heat insulator set (or an adapter plate) will lift the carb up enough to clear the butterflies.
But....
The turbulence created by the 'step' on the secondaries is not going to help HP.
Best thing to do it remove the intake...Scribe the opening with the bigger size on the secondaries...
Then grind, or mill open the intake manifold secondary bores.
Then the carb can set all the way down.
Then....
Look at the throttle linkage plate on the AFB.
There is a stamping seam line where the drop down part of the arm is (that is used for an automatic trans kickdown linkage cable on GM and other brands.
Grind, or cut along that press brake edge and remove the lower part of the lever.
That will eliminate interference with the heat crossover part of the intake casting.
While the intake is off...
Flip it over and take a long punch and knock out the choke stove tube 'plug' (it should have the u-loop tube running in and out of the plug).
It comes out from the inside to outside.
Then take a 5/16" x 1" carraige bolt..
Grind a touch off of each of the square parts under the head so it will 'almost' slip it into the hole and put on a flat washer and steel lock nut (no nylon lock nuts, ot lock washers).
'Stake' or spot weld the nut to the bolt so it can't come loose.
A dab of JB Weld under the carraige bolt head would not hurt, either.
Make sure to set the throttle linkage so the carb is resting fully on the idle stop on the carb.
Then, it is just a matter of wiring up the choke
(12 volt 'switched' power), setting your new AFB air cleaner, and hooking up your vacuum line
(to the 'ported' nipple on the LHS* of the carb *passenger side)
HTIH
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Studeman

http://www.raylinrestoration.com/TechnicalPages/Carb/carbconversion.htm

Definitely use the spacer. DO NOT cut up an OEM 4-barrel air cleaner. 2-barrels are cheap, but you will likely need an aftermarket for better air-flow. Our car would bog at high-speed due to the small airhorn of the original air cleaner
Ray

[Shane]

Thanks for the info fellas its time to rip into her!

<div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

[Rerun]

Jeff has said it well. I would add just one thing. Get a pair of intake manifold gaskets that block the center exhaust crossover. With the electric choke, you don't need the crossover. The carburetor will run cooler and be less prone to vapor lock.

Jim Bradley
Lewistown PA
'78 Avanti II

[DEEPNHOCK]

Be aware that if you do choose to block off the heat crossover passage in the intake manifold, it is mandatory that you either wire open, gut, or remove the heat riser valve on the RHS.
Also, you will need to put in a thin stainless strip to reinforce the backside of the fibre intake gasket blocking the heat crossover, or it will eventually burn out.



I like to install the gaskets on the intake like this, and let them 'set up' overnight.
Then smear a little grease on the gasket surface before bolting on the intake manifold.
This will allow a little wiggle room to help align things, and it 'might' make the intake gaskets survive a few removal/installation cycles..
(Think racer......or future CASO)

The latest composite gaskets I have seen have a small hole in the heat crossover spot... Ignore that when adding the block off strip.
Note that will NOT work if you are using steel intake gaskets.
HTIH
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Rerun

Jeff has said it well. I would add just one thing. Get a pair of intake manifold gaskets that block the center exhaust crossover. With the electric choke, you don't need the crossover. The carburetor will run cooler and be less prone to vapor lock.

(edited to fix aggregious typo's[V])

[Shane]

Jim and Jeff,

Excellent, I had know idea. I've printed all this info to go step by step. Thanks very much fellas. Jeff email sent on carb.

<div align="left">My first stude '61 champ in 1987</div id="left"> <center>Shane</center><center>Kennewick, WA</center>

[Chucks Stude]

One little aside, make sure that the old choke heater tubes are out of the way. They will sometimes prop open the secondaries just enough to affect the idle. Learned this at the school of hard knocks.

[DEEPNHOCK]

That is a good point.
I usually knock out the U-loop (w/plug) from the inside, and save it, rather than cutting them off, or beating them flat..
Then, 'if' you want to go back...you still can.
The carraige bolt seals the hole and it clears the linkage OK..
(and it looks neater)
Six of one, a half dozen of another...
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Chucks Stude

One little aside, make sure that the old choke heater tubes are out of the way. They will sometimes prop open the secondaries just enough to affect the idle. Learned this at the school of hard knocks.

[Studeguru]

who sells those gaskets with the center hole blocked?

[Tom Bredehoft]

I had the heater block off gaskets, reinforced with stainless, on my '55. After maybe 300 miles I had occasion to remove the manifold. It had a couple of tablespoons of water (condensation) in it. I put a 1/8 hole through each side to let the condensation out. Just my experience.

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
....On the road, again....
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars