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View Full Version : A 4 core radiator to fit a 54 coupe.



Nelsen Motorsports
10-05-2009, 08:02 PM
I am looking for where to find a good 4 core radiator to fit in the tight space under the hood of a 54 coupe, we have just started the engine for the first time, but the stock radiator which was used on a flathead 6 isn't exactly what we want to to rely on to cool a 383 Chrysler. We are on a tight budget and don't want to spend too much, but we need a good radiator for the hot Georgia summers. Can anyone help me in where to find a radiator.

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss29/NelsenRacing/n1558086144_30050401_419-1.jpg
Alex Nelsen
1954 Champion Coupe
Lizella, GA

Gunslinger
10-05-2009, 09:29 PM
Instead of a thicker radiator, get a core with more fins per inch. If the stock radiator has twelve fins per inch, get one with eighteen fins per inch. It will greatly increase the cooling area and is more efficient at transferring heat than an additional row. If you engine bay is space challenged already, then this is a way of increasing cooling efficiency without compromising space. A fan shroud should be installed as well.

Any good radiator shop should be able to order one as cores are sold by size.

If that big block Mopar still makes for heating problems, you may need to consider electric fans.




Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

buddymander
10-05-2009, 09:58 PM
What did you do for steering to clear that oil filter?

Nelsen Motorsports
10-06-2009, 05:13 AM
quote:Originally posted by buddymander

What did you do for steering to clear that oil filter?


The car has a Nova subframe welded on.

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss29/NelsenRacing/n1558086144_30050401_419-1.jpg
Alex Nelsen
1954 Champion Coupe
Lizella, GA

Mike Van Veghten
10-06-2009, 09:54 AM
4 "core"....that would be about 10 inches thick...!

A 4 "row" radiator...should fit just fine.

Take a few measurements...call your local shop...they've probably got something that'll fit and work. If not, one of the many aluminum radiator shops should be able to come up with something for you.
You've got all the time into the engine and subframe work...don't shortchange things now with a cheap radiator.

Mike

Nelsen Motorsports
10-17-2009, 11:34 AM
Is there anybody who can give me dimensions for the radiator so I can consult a shop.

http://i558.photobucket.com/albums/ss29/NelsenRacing/n1558086144_30050401_419-1.jpg
Alex Nelsen, 15 year old Studebaker nut.
1954 Champion Coupe
Lizella, GA

mbstude
10-17-2009, 11:37 AM
Just get your measurements from your old radiator. If you don't have it, measure the radiator support that's in the car. :)

Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, GA

Jeff_H
10-17-2009, 01:39 PM
Here are some pix of the old rotted non-repairable rad I had in my '53 K for a while. The core is rotten and the tanks so full of patched cracks the rad shop didn't want to recore it. I found a good one that I have in the car now.

Front:

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/radiatorfront2small.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/radiatorfrontsmall.jpg

Back:

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/radiatorrearsmall.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/radiatorrear2small.jpg

I've kept it for dimensional/pattern purposes like your question....

The dimensions are:


http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/1953RadiatorDimensions.jpg


Basically, the core is 15" high x 24-1/2" wide or so. There are steel end plates on the ends
that make up the last 1/4" or so and also have the flange for mounting to the core support.

There are 3 bolts each side (not shown on drawing).

The overall height from the bottom of the bottom tank to top of top tank is 19-1/2". From
the bottom to the top of the cap is 20-1/2".


Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/devilstowerthumbnail.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

Alan
10-17-2009, 04:11 PM
Speedway has an aluminum double pass 19" X 24" No. 917-340-24 for $179. Weld on some 1" aluminum angle pieces on the ends and drill the Stude holes in the brackets.

StudeRich
10-17-2009, 04:15 PM
Thanks for the dimensions, that will be helpful to someone. :)

I take it that this is for a Champion 6 like yours, so everything is close to a Commander 8, C or K Model like most members have, except the Inlet and Outlet diameter and location then, right? [?]

Then another detail on '54's is; the top tank is a different shape, because it is a different brand on 1954's, more rounded. [^]

StudeRich

Jeff_H
10-17-2009, 06:20 PM
quote: take it that this is for a Champion 6 like yours, so everything is close to a Commander 8, C or K Model like most members have, except the Inlet and Outlet diameter and location then, right?

The rad came from the picked over remains of a '53 Commander "C" body coupe in a old 'yard. Paid $40 for it in about 1994 or so. Probably spent >$150 on it keeping it from leaking before I gave up on it :(

It might not have been the original radiator from that commander, no way to know. The drivetrain in the '53 K is not stock. The replacement rad I got had the same dia necks on it so all my hoses fit up fine. The pictured radiator is a '53 C/K radiator as opposed to a sedan one so it should serve for dimensions for a '54 given the same front end sheet metal. [^]

Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/devilstowerthumbnail.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

JeffDeWitt
10-17-2009, 09:31 PM
I don't see the radiator that Alan mentioned but they have a Ford/Mopar universal radiator and the 24" one is $139.

However these are side tank radiators, and of course our Studes have top and bottom tank units. As long as you could get it mounted and connected would there be a problem with using a side tank radiator in a Stude?

Jeff DeWitt
http://carolinastudes.net
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/Jeff_DeWitt/IM001571-1.jpg

mweiss
10-17-2009, 09:36 PM
alan, I am concerned that the speedway radiator will be too high at the corners. The 53 and 54 coupes had the chamfered top radiator, as Jeff H drew it, and there is only 17 inches at the sides to the top of the fender bosses that bolt to the radiator bracket(Although thereis 20 inches clearance at the center). I think the hood might not close because the corners of a 19 inch radiator may be too high... Have you used this radiator in a 53 or 54? thanks

ok

Alan
10-18-2009, 02:01 PM
Manny, Yes but the only problems come from using the stock fan shroud. The horn relay has to be moved and a notch cut in the lower left side for clearance for the lower radiator hose. Haven't tried to put a hood on yet.

mweiss
10-18-2009, 08:48 PM
thanks alan; whether the corners of the radiater hit the hood is key. I have been looking for a radiator to cool the twin turbo 289, in a 53 coupe. I had some overheating problems before, with a custom Griffen on a 259 in a 53 coupe, so a generic crossflow dual flow might be an answer. I will ck with speedway tomorrow re the addl specs, and it may be worth a try, for only 179.Can you not set the hood in place to see if it clears? What are you using for the top hose? did you use a swivel thermostat neck, or a straight up housing? thanks-manny

ok

StreetRodConcepts
10-19-2009, 09:32 AM
We had a custom Alum. made for the 53k we are working on from AFCO.

mweiss
10-20-2009, 07:34 AM
I'd be interested in the details of the custom afco. Do you have an order number or way I could identify the radiator with AFCO if I were to try and have an identical one made. Was the price reasonable?- thanks- m weiss

ok

StreetRodConcepts
10-20-2009, 08:23 AM
Yes the price was reasonable. I will work on an order number, radiator should be here this week I think. I will take pics when I receive it

John Brayton
10-24-2009, 07:19 PM
Hi,
We're working on the same radiator issue with our 53 Coupe. Hope you will post pictures and data. I'm sure you will be helping MANY of us avoid the trial and ERROR approach. Thanks!

john brayton

Pat Dilling
10-27-2009, 11:46 AM
quote:Originally posted by John Brayton

Hi,
We're working on the same radiator issue with our 53 Coupe. Hope you will post pictures and data. I'm sure you will be helping MANY of us avoid the trial and ERROR approach. Thanks!

john brayton


Ditto what John said. I am looking for a cross flow I can go over the top of to get cool air from in front of the radiator for my EFI air intake.

Pat

Pat Dilling
Olivehurst, CA
Custom '53 Starlight aka Stu Cool
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n194/stucool53/StuCoolsmallerSigpic.jpg
LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=33611

John Brayton
10-27-2009, 08:15 PM
Hi All,

I've been corresponding with Griffin Thermal Products in SC. They can build a new aluminum radiator for $650. I know this sound a bit $$$$$ but I'm unwilling to jeopardize all of our efforts in building this "new" 53 Coupe by installing a marginal radiator (and we're installing AC). I sent them a 53 radiator today for specs and hope to have a new one back by December. Will post more as this progresses.



john brayton

StreetRodConcepts
10-27-2009, 08:20 PM
Quick update: custom AFCO radiator should be in next week. I will get pictures up as soon as I can. Along with the above post we are runnin A/C also. Vintage Air supercooler. It gets a little hot here in Texas

sweetolbob
10-27-2009, 09:30 PM
Pat

Look at the vette radiators. My 54K has a late 80's and the EFI air fits over the top. It took a few mods but it fits and works great.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/stude004.jpg?t=1256696889

Bob

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/P1000416.jpg?t=1227109182, http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/031-1.jpg?t=1254424814

mweiss
10-28-2009, 12:15 PM
bob- you obviously were able to move the radiator back to some extent. I found the bellcrank for power steering( from a later hawk), won't allow that, unfortunately. Incidentally, how do you lock the hood down? AN pins at the corners?

It looks like, by my measurements, there is barely 19 inches at the sides of the radiator opening, at the bracket, before striking the inside of the hood there, at the sides. I am interested in how the AFCO fits. I couldn't get their custom guy to call me back, but I did leave a message. Also, I have an order number for a Griffen to fit the 53, so that no one else needs to send them a radiator, they actually have all the dimensions already-

I am mocking up for an AFCO 80127 NDP stock radiator, which is just a tad less tall than the one Alan recommended above, and only 234$- I will let everyone know if that bumps the hood, in the next few days thanks- m. weiss

ok

StreetRodConcepts
10-28-2009, 01:08 PM
Take a look at our website. If you go to the photo gallery and look under the engine and chassis pics. There are pictures of the AFCO in the car. We made a couple changes and sent it back, when it gets here i will get more pics.

http://www.street-rod-concepts.com/gallery/index.php?dp=1953+Studebaker+Hardtop+%28current+project%29+%2A%2A%2AUpdated+10-16-09%2A%2A%2A%2FChassis+and+Engine/

mweiss
10-28-2009, 04:38 PM
Thanks street=rod; what's the welded aluminum stub in the center , front,of radiator, an attachment point to the front end sheetmetal? Thanks for the photos- m weiss

ok

StreetRodConcepts
10-28-2009, 06:49 PM
The aluminum piece you speak of is the upper mount for the A/C condensor (did not come on the radiator, we added it at the shop)

mweiss
10-29-2009, 08:15 AM
I find that the top front corners of a 19X24 inch cardboard mockup of the radiator do bump the inside of the hood, only a few millimeters , but enough to be a problem. I have photos, am working on trying to figure out the system for posting them here. The sides of the radiator do need to be chamfered, as the AFCO, to clear, I believe. I would like to know if Alan has done something to make his work.

ok

Michidan
10-29-2009, 09:27 AM
Guys, I have been following this with some interest. Am currently installing a Griffin generic size crossflow pro series in my 52. A different car altogether of course.
But due to the room needed by the motor and fan, the radiator had to move forward a bit. So hood clearance becomes a problem.
Because I am now forward of the support hoop (U shape) between the fenders, I find I have all the room in the world to go in a new direction - down! I can just lower the radiator as much as I want until the hood clears. Mounts have to be custom anyway, so no problem.
Even if the radiator was still within the stock U shape support, I figured I could easily lower the radiator (if needed) by cutting the bottom of the U out and moving it down some. Sure it requires some fab, as well as consideration of where the fan and shroud will go. but that is part of the fun of building a modified.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g293/loraxdan66/signature3.jpg
www.studebakerhardtop.com

Alan
10-29-2009, 10:50 AM
Manny, Dan hit it on the head. Nothing just fits with out mods. I lowered mine and rounded the ends slightly, but the front end is totally off my 53K right now and have got 3 other projects going for Arizona now.

mweiss
10-29-2009, 05:32 PM
I understand.Dan's car has more room up there. I enjoy the fabrication part, it is just neater to minimize that sometimes. The Radiator bracket actually supports and locates the front fenders, and in my case, for once, I have a perfect fit and gap for the hood, fenders, doors , all that, so I really don't want to jeopardize that and fab a new bracket, if possible. Also, I hate to get the radiator lower, the big sway bar I have will either impinge,or be in the way, and the front of the 53 is low enough as it is.Coming forward with the radiator also starts to affect space for the grille in the 53, and I wanted to use that for cold air intakes. So if one can get a good double pass in the confines of the original radiator U- bracket, it is definitely better. I like Alan's approach of rounding the corners of the radiator, something I have been considering, and for which having a TIG around might be good. Alan, did you round the corners with a swedish screwdriver, or do something with more finesse?The 19X24 will actually fit well, in the bracket, with a little modification of the bracket, and rounding or chamfering the top corners by only a 1/2 inch or so.... thanks-manny

ok

Alan
10-29-2009, 08:19 PM
Bob up there in pic. no 3 has one that is cut a little more than I would but close. And when you make the angle brackets for the sides it does not do anything to the radiator support. Plus a good band saw is all you need after putting some cut lines on the tanks.

Kdancy
10-31-2009, 07:46 AM
quote:Originally posted by StreetRodConcepts

Take a look at our website. If you go to the photo gallery and look under the engine and chassis pics. There are pictures of the AFCO in the car. We made a couple changes and sent it back, when it gets here i will get more pics.

http://www.street-rod-concepts.com/gallery/index.php?dp=1953+Studebaker+Hardtop+%28current+project%29+%2A%2A%2AUpdated+10-16-09%2A%2A%2A%2FChassis+and+Engine/

What type fan are you going to use with this? Shouldn't this same set up work in a 57 Golden Hawk?

StreetRodConcepts
10-31-2009, 09:05 AM
we made an aluminum shroud for the back of the radiator w/ dual 10" fans....i believe, i will check and make sure when I get to the shop on Monday

StreetRodConcepts
10-31-2009, 10:00 AM
The fact that I couldnt remember was driving me crazy, so I came up to the shop, it is a dual 12" set-up.

mweiss
11-04-2009, 03:09 PM
FSR radiator , ordered thru bryke.com, arrived in two working days, 18 inches tall, 24 inches wide, has pair of flanges at bottom, total distance top of cap to bottom of lower flanges is 18.5 inches, leaving at least 1/2 inch between inner hood and the cap.http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac324/mrobertweiss/DSCF0715.jpg

This obviates all the bandsaw cutting, and much of the fabrication. 225 bucks and 10 or 15 bucks to ship, so this isn't that far off from the 180 that Alan's cost, and the shipping was a bit less, actually. thanks- m weiss

ok

mweiss
11-04-2009, 04:50 PM
here's a picture of the mockup of a 19 inch-tall unit, that demonstrates the very minimal bunking the corners will do. The unit previously pictured will provide enough clearance, and an additional inch can be had by trimming the rather unecessary small flange at the bottom of the unit. http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac324/mrobertweiss/DSCF0686.jpg

ok

StreetRodConcepts
11-08-2009, 09:18 AM
The rad. we had made for the 53 is in. Will get pictures up this week.

John Brayton
11-08-2009, 12:25 PM
Hi All,

The folks at Griffin Thermal Products in SC. are building our radiator from the sample I sent. The cost is $556 plus shipping.

Regards,

john brayton

Kdancy
11-08-2009, 06:15 PM
quote:Originally posted by John Brayton

Hi All,

The folks at Griffin Thermal Products in SC. are building our radiator from the sample I sent. The cost is $556 plus shipping.

Regards,

john brayton

John, please keep us updated on this. Are you running AC? What type fan are you going to use?

mweiss
11-09-2009, 11:39 AM
I have the same custom griffen radiator in a 53 with AC vintage air, clutch fan from Thibeault; it works fine, other than close clearance for a power steer bellcrank. It's a well constructed, perfect fit.They charged me 600$ 18 months ago for the same thing, so 550 is cheaper.

ok

John Brayton
11-09-2009, 07:28 PM
Hi All,

I believe Manny and I will have very similar components under the hood. My 53 coupe will have power steering (Manny has given me good advice on that) and air conditioning. I have not chosen the AC/fan unit yet but will share the info when I know more.

Regards,

john brayton

Pat Dilling
11-09-2009, 11:42 PM
This is exactly what I am looking for!! Bravo! I am looking forward to seeing how you will mount it in place.

Thanks!

Pat


quote:Originally posted by mweiss

FSR radiator , ordered thru bryke.com, arrived in two working days, 18 inches tall, 24 inches wide, has pair of flanges at bottom, total distance top of cap to bottom of lower flanges is 18.5 inches, leaving at least 1/2 inch between inner hood and the cap.http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac324/mrobertweiss/DSCF0715.jpg

This obviates all the bandsaw cutting, and much of the fabrication. 225 bucks and 10 or 15 bucks to ship, so this isn't that far off from the 180 that Alan's cost, and the shipping was a bit less, actually. thanks- m weiss

ok


Pat Dilling
Olivehurst, CA
Custom '53 Starlight aka Stu Cool
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n194/stucool53/StuCoolsmallerSigpic.jpg
LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=33611

Kdancy
11-10-2009, 04:57 AM
quote:Originally posted by mweiss

I have the same custom griffen radiator in a 53 with AC vintage air, clutch fan from Thibeault; it works fine, other than close clearance for a power steer bellcrank. It's a well constructed, perfect fit.They charged me 600$ 18 months ago for the same thing, so 550 is cheaper.

ok

What is "close fit" ? Does the bellcrank work ok? I am interested in this set up for a 57 GH.

ralt12
11-10-2009, 09:20 AM
Here's a Ron Davis radiator in a '53 C/K. Like Pat's car, it's Chevy LS-powered, but doesn't use the Corvette bits. Right now the car is apart for painting. In front of the radiator are the AC condensor and the oil and trans coolers.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/ralt12/IMG_2186.jpg

'53 Commander
Art Morrison chassis
LS6 ASA/4L60E

mweiss
11-10-2009, 10:30 AM
kdancy, I have two 53 coupes, one completed, another I'm working on. In the completed car, the bellcrank was 1 or 2 mm away from a weld seam at the bottom tank of the griffen radiator. That radiator was a duplicate of the original, similar to the one that the folks posting above sent theirs in for , to copy. The PS bellcrank is bigger than the original 53, to accomdate the ram, thus the close fit. I filed a few more mm off the bellcrank(not the ram portion) to achieve needed clearance for vibration, movement, heating, etc.... so far the radiator is ok, I just inspected it closely after 1200 miles on the car.

The FSR is going in my new car. I didn't want the same problem with the griffen, and I aslo wanted to not pay over 600 bucks again. The FSR is double pass, so I think that will help my cooling issues as well. The Griffen was not a DP unit.I used the original shroud and a clutch fan in my first car, won't again. the bottom had to be cut out for the ram PS unit.Thus, not exactly a good seal there. I think I can improve cooling with a custom alum tight shroud on the FSR DP unit.Routing the radiator hoses will be more flexible without the stude shroud.

Ralt 12, I contacted Ron Davis, about a month ago, several times,but they were terrible about geting back to me. He quoted 867 $ for a DP radiator with two fans and custom shroud. I just couldn't get them to email or get back to me with queries that I had about fitment, so I figured they weren't interested. He had nothing in his files on a prior similar unit for the 53 coupes, so I am wondering what exactly you got from Ron Davis, what are the dimensions of your radiator, Double pass, etc ? -thanks- m weiss

ok

Kdancy
11-10-2009, 11:57 AM
I was curious about the "double pass" and "cross flow" statements and found this ====
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Cooling/More_Cooling_Suggestions/

When upgrading to a better radiator or choosing a new one, shear surface area is what you want for the highest cooling capacity. This translates to more tube surface area.

Double and triple pass radiators are not as efficient as single pass radiators and are not recommended for street use. They require significantly higher pressures to work correctly.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/tech_tips/Tech_Tips_5.htm

quote:Double pass radiators require 16x more pressure to flow the same volume of coolant through them, as compared to a single pass radiator. Triple pass radiators require 64x more pressure to maintain the same volume. Automotive water pumps are a centrifugal design, not positive displacement, so with a double pass radiator, the pressure is doubled and flow is reduced by approximately 33%. Modern radiator designs, using wide/thin cross sections tubes, seldom benefit from multiple pass configurations. The decrease in flow caused by multiple passes offsets any benefits of a high-flow water pump.

Gross flow radiators are superior to upright radiators because the radiator cap is positioned on the low pressure (suction) side of the system. This prevents the pressure created by a high-flow water pump from forcing coolant past the radiator cap at high RPM. As mentioned in the radiator cap section, an upright radiator should be equipped with radiator cap with the highest pressure rating recommended by the manufacturer. The system will still force coolant past the cap at sustained high RPM.

ralt12
11-10-2009, 12:32 PM
Better data-
The Ron Davis radiator is 25 1/4' wide, and 16 3/4" tall. I added the picture to see how the depth worked; it depends on if you count the fans. I'd have to dig out the bill for the radiator to see exactly how much it cost and which configuration it is. But it wasn't the least expensive thing I wanted to use.
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/ralt12/IMG_7105.jpg
http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s283/ralt12/IMG_7104.jpg

'53 Commander
Art Morrison chassis
LS6 ASA/4L60E

mweiss
11-10-2009, 02:16 PM
KDancy: One of the conceptual issues is how long you want the coolant to remain in the radiator. Double pass radiators do not, by and large, require high flow water pumps; the triple pass ones apparently do. However, having the coolant spend more time in the radiator , being cooled, such that more actual coolant volume is receiving the benefit of that 'double pass', is the whole idea. The radiator 'gurus' that I discussed my stude issues with, like Ron Davis Inc, FSR, Griffen, all seem to feel the double pass radiator if a more efficient cooling device, street or racer.

Ralt 12, thanks for the additional data. When I talked to ron davis, we were going to do the 16 by 25 design, as well. It looks like you have the 2 12" fans I was discussing with them as well. What model Spal fans do you have on there?- as I know the Davis people will use only spal, they feel spal is the only mfr who reliably and consistently have their CFM correctly stated.

-thanks- m weiss

ok

Pat Dilling
11-11-2009, 12:35 AM
My main reason for wanting the double pass cross flow radiator is not so much for extra cooling, but to get both inlet and outlet on the passenger side and to get it low enough to run my air intake over the top of it. My engine is not difficult to cool and never runs above 205-210 even on 105+ days in traffic with the AC on. Normally it is steady on 180. Looks like that FSR piece will do the trick for me.

thanks everyone for a great discussion and info sharing.

Pat

Pat Dilling
Olivehurst, CA
Custom '53 Starlight aka Stu Cool
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n194/stucool53/StuCoolsmallerSigpic.jpg
LS1 Engine Swap Journal: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal.php?action=view&journalid=33611

mweiss
11-19-2009, 03:25 PM
I have checked fitment of the FSR radiator pictured above, and it fits perfectly in the available space. The radiator cap clears the left front hood corner, and I may trim down the bottom radiator barcket flange a few millimeters as well. No cutting or modifications seem necessary; I will have to weld some bracketry to the sides, but that looks straightforward. thanks- m weiss

ok

John Brayton
11-22-2009, 09:57 PM
Hi All,

We just received the Griffin radiator and it is NICE. The final cost was $545 plus $55 for shipping. It fits perfect and I'll post photos when we start the body/chassis assembly. If you need photos before you can contact me at johnbraytonz@comcast.net

Regards,

John Brayton

Kdancy
11-23-2009, 05:37 AM
John,
How is it different from the stock radiator? Do you have a part # now that they have built one?

mweiss
11-23-2009, 08:25 AM
K Dancy: My griffen order number was 104833, on 06/19/08; this is an exact duplicate of the original radiator, except for a few minor details. You can go up to 1 1/2 inch thick core tubes, from 1 inch. I am busy putting an elctric spal unit behind this radiator; the large opening I had to make at the bottom of the original shroud for a bellcrank is probably allowing too much air to blow by the radiator with the motor's clutch fan- thanks m.weiss

ok

studebakerkid
11-24-2009, 01:46 AM
If you havent ordered the radiator yet you need to make sure that it has the newer style radiator cap neck. The old style use in 54 was longer and you can only get caps rated to 7psi.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

Mark57
11-24-2009, 08:32 PM
One just showed up on eBay... :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1954-STUDEBAKER-RADIATOR_W0QQitemZ120497411412QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessor ies?hash=item1c0e349554

<h5>Mark
'57 Transtar Deluxe
Vancouver Island Chapter
http://visdc.shawwebspace.ca/ </h5>

http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x153/MarkH57/zonemt1a.jpg

mweiss
11-30-2009, 02:23 PM
Installed a spal 30102130 dual 12 inch fan assy over the holiday, in front of the Griffen copy of the stock 53 radiator. The fan can be seen at: http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=30102130 and a couple of photos of the installation are on photobucket: http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac324/mrobertweiss/DSCF0113.jpg The bellcrank at the bottom remains an issue, with a powersteering application from the later models( this is a 60 61 lark setup). The fan assy requires some modifying, and is attached to the griffen radiator reveal bracket in a straightforward way. The problems all devolve around the bottom, where the ram, left and center portions of the bellcrank attached to tie rod ends and valve assemby respectively, intrude.At full right turn, wheels locked, I was forced to trim out a small piece of the shroud grille, but it does seem to clear. There is a nice contoller chip as well that is available to use with this fan assembly, seems to be quite functional on testing, at least. It's not hot enough here at this time, to really assess effectiveness, but the temp at the water manifold drops from 186 to 170 in 20 seconds with both fans running, at ambient 65 degrees. http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac324/mrobertweiss/DSCF0111.jpg

The FSR radiator previously pictured is for a another 53 project, and I probably will use a different, staggered dual fan assy for that. Thanks - m weiss

ok

woodysrods
12-03-2009, 02:36 PM
So. Is the FSR the bomb? What is the part # and who do we order this thru?
Does evryone agree that this is the "BEST" choice????

Brian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae283/woodysrods/Concunully004.jpg

mweiss
12-03-2009, 03:50 PM
No the FSR works fine, but it has inlet and outlet on the passenger side, 'chevy' style. It is good for certain reasons, for my purposes with that project. Different car. If you want a stock-appearing great aluminum radiator, the Griffen reproduction is super, with inlet and outlet in exactly the correct locations , as original. The spal 30102038 unit is definitely not a 'best unit', for a fan, but I did make it work. Many persons may not need that much CFM. The Griffen is a great radiator, and is the closest to stock you can get, at least with an all aluminum radiator, and short of recoring and repairing an original. The FSR fits in the space available, and doesn't seem to require any cutting, etc, is double pass, and allows connections to be made all on one side. Thanks- m weiss

ok

woodysrods
03-31-2010, 06:28 AM
Just to keep this topic alive. Does anyone else have any imput before I get to this stage of my project?[:p]
Brian

Brian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae283/woodysrods/Concunully004.jpg

DEEPNHOCK
03-31-2010, 07:05 AM
Is their name spray painted on the fins?
I remember Ol' Dave Lester getting knicked a few points at a meet for 'paint overspray' on the radiator,
when it was the company logo stencil spray painted on there....
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by woodysrods

Just to keep this topic alive. Does anyone else have any imput before I get to this stage of my project?[:p]
Brian


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/1937CEBearfootingArtwithLabelgif-1.jpghttp://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/SDClogo4forum.jpghttp://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/StudebakerTruckFarmerStickerA-1.jpghttp://www.racingstudebakers.com/avatar_01.jpghttp://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/GatorDadBigjpg-1-1.jpg

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

mweiss
03-31-2010, 09:25 AM
this is how the fsr looks.remember, inlet and outlet chevy stle, on the right side.http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/ac324/mrobertweiss/DSCF1003.jpg

ok

D Davis
04-16-2010, 08:18 PM
I would like a try at this. I read some of the above posts and I notice that there is another company that is not mentioned. The company is Performance Rod & Custom (PRC). They build some very nice custom radiators and the owner is a Studebaker enthusiast. They build customs for anything, you provide dimensions and they can usually build it.
Some of the people they build radiators for are, Jay Leno, Willy Nelson,and George Barris. They also built all of the aluminum radiators for the Boyd Coddington show... They will offer you good service and a quality product. In fact here is a special deal. I do not normally say anything about PRC in forums but I see all of these other names mentioned and how some posts say buy this or that and make it fit. Alex, If you buy a radiator from PRC and don't like the way it fits or functions, as the owner, I will send a call tag for the radiator and refund 100% of your money. In fact if you are going to South Bend and can wait that long I will deliver the radiator to you. Check out our web site www.prchotrod.com Thanks, Duane

DEEPNHOCK
04-16-2010, 08:32 PM
Can't get much better than this!
Jeff[8D]



quote:Originally posted by D Davis
&lt;snip&gt;
Alex, If you buy a radiator from PRC and don't like the way it fits or functions, as the owner, I will send a call tag for the radiator and refund 100% of your money. In fact if you are going to South Bend and can wait that long I will deliver the radiator to you. Check out our web site www.prchotrod.com Thanks, Duane

N8N
04-17-2010, 07:35 AM
Duane, great to see you here. It's always cool when a vendor shows up, it shows that they care about their product after the sale. Do you have a pattern for a 53-55 C-K or would you need a stock radiator to copy? That was the problem that I ran into a few years back when I thought I'd need a new radiator, the guy that Dave Lester recommended was happy to build me a new rad but he wanted me to send him my old radiator for a pattern and I didn't want to have the downtime and couldn't find another radiator to send him. I ended up having my stock rad rodded and resoldered, but I don't know if it's going to be adequate for an R-1 in DC heat with A/C.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

woodysrods
04-24-2010, 05:13 PM
Okay! Have we ageed that the FSR is the best way to go? or is all the voting and comparing not done yet[?] I would hate to have to send this comparison shopping out to those shopping girls on the food network[}:)] Want o purchase rad very soon[:p]
Brian

Brian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae283/woodysrods/Concunully004.jpg

leyrret
04-25-2010, 06:13 AM
I took another mounting route using 160.00 side tank alum. rad I purchased off ebay. Instead of mounting to the side I placed radiator in opening on insulators and fabricated holds on top to hold it in place similar to later radiator mountings. Cheap and it works well. This is on a 56 Hawk.

woodysrods
04-25-2010, 09:58 AM
Terry do you have pictures and make of radiator?
Brian

Brian Woods
woodysrods@shaw.ca
1946 M Series (Shop Truck)
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/ae283/woodysrods/Concunully004.jpg

leyrret
04-28-2010, 05:14 AM
If I can find the receipt as I don't remember the name of the seller. It was a generic no name of proper size
to fit in opening. Here's one that looks identical with same dimensions for only 120.00, ebay #260590338956. It has mounting channels on top and bottom. As crude as it sounds I used 2x2 wood blocks(painted good so as not to rot)with a layer of rubber to insulate. (Proper size rubber blocks would be better). They fit in the core support and the radiator channel fit down over perfectly. Made up a couple retainers on top to hold it in place. Cools car fine. Only drawback. For some reason they didn't figure it needed a draincock. Probably made in China.