Stripped pan threads

[Guest]

I'm getting close to starting my 63 Lark project's rebuilt Stude V8.
Poured in the oil and noticed a one drip per minute leak from the drain plug. I'd used a tad loose-fitting nylon type washer replacing a thin and broken metal one. At the rate I'm going, it might be a week or two before I fire up the engine and my clean stainless (salad) bowl now catching the drips might be 5 quarts full by then.
The plug doesn't tighten. You know that feeling that tells you "I'm stripped" and so I'm leaning towards draining the new oil and covering the bowl in a saran wrap until I can tap the hole and seat a new plug. My plug takes a 7/8" wrench.
I've not had to do this before and am wondering if there's any danger in getting shavings inside the pan? Is it generally tapped to the next size up? Or, since I'm only going to change the oil anyway after the break-in, just deal with it then? WWYD?
Thanks!

[sweetolbob]

Tom

If it were me, I'd tap the hole with grease on the tap, put a piece of greased rag on the end of a piece of bent bailing wire to reach into the hole and pick up anything that remains.

Should be good to go. The only better solution is to drop the pan.

There are also repair plugs sold at your local FLAPS.

Bob

,

[rockne10]

If it is indeed stripped!
The threads the plug screws in to are located in a slug of steel that is spot welded to the bottom of the pan. A plug that has been too tight for too long can cause those spot welds to break; then all you are doing is spinning the slug.[V]

Hope not, but I've seen it happen.

[Alan]

The thread should be a 3/8" taper pipe. Doorman has a oversize plug that has 2 slots milled across and pick up the proper copper gasket while you are at it.

[Dwain G.]

Check the threads on the drain plug first. Usually the threaded plate in the pan is much harder than the plug.


HEY, you're not Wilbur!

[63t-cab]

If you do tap a new size,use a magnet to attract the metal bits.

Joseph R. Zeiger

[jcstude]

Tom, I have used washers from the late 70's 350 Olds diesel V-8s that have a rubber-like substance on them that makes a good seal once you get the treads sorted out. Not sure if they are still available, but my dad used a bottle stopper (the kind that has two little 'finger wings' and a plunger) to temporarily stop the leak until he could retap the pan.

Good luck,
Lew in Escondido

[Mike]

The late Stude pans I've seen use a nut plate, spot welded on the inside of the pan; like "rockne10" describes. The nut plate isn't sealed to the skin of the pan, like the bungs are on most other cars. The drain plug screws into the nut plate and a flange on the plug is pulled against an "O" ring gasket and the outside skin of the pan. Plug threads are parallel, not tapered; and don't seal.
I've heard a story that some factory rejected plugs, with the flange not square to the threaded portion, have gotten loose, and are being sold as nos. It's worth a look, to make sure you don't have one like that.
Mike M.

[Guest]

Thanks! The leak has slowed and I think I'll top the sump and leave the plug there for the first run.

[BRUCESTUDE]

Tom-
I agree with Dwain; check the threads on the plug first, I've cured the same issue with a new plug (and gasket).

Bruce