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Kdancy
01-16-2007, 09:49 AM
Need a new harness for a 63 Cruiser. This is not going to be a
100 point show car. Thinking about using a Painless company
or similer harness. Anyone tried one of these aftermarket
brands and have advice for me ??

parky
01-16-2007, 11:43 AM
I am installing a new harness in my '62 Hawk. I bought it from Hotrodwires.com in Texas. The price is a lot less than Painless and the support is unbelievable. You can call the head guy anytime, nights, days, weekends and he will spend as much time as you want to insure success. You can choose from three different packages and even customize it yourself. The quality of the product is really good. I would do it again. Next time I might opt for the next size up so I didn't have to add circuits.
I think he manufactures kits for some of the bigger names and they tack on their profit.
The stuff is GM based and is well constructed.
bob

62 GT Hawk

JDP
01-16-2007, 04:49 PM
Try SASCO for a NOS factory harness.

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JDP
Arnold Md.
Studebaker On The Net
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64 GT hawk
64 Commander 2 dr.
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) #2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
63 Lark 2 door #2
62 Daytona HT/ 4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
60 Hawk
59 3E truck
52 Starliner
51 Commander

showbizkid
01-16-2007, 05:16 PM
FWIW, I took a look at Hotrodwires' site, and for about the same price, you can get a custom harness from Studebakers West that's made from OEM specs specifically for your car. That's what I did for my '63, and I'm very happy with the result.

A big "pro" of doing it this way is that all the connectors - instrument lamp bulbs, spade lugs, multi-conductor plugs for turn signals & taillight harness, etc. - are all installed and in the right places when you go to install the harness. If you go with a generic harness, you'll have to install all of these yourself.

Then, there's the time you'll spend in figuring out which wire you're going to use for which circuit, etc. With an OEM-style harness, you just follow the diagram and connect the colors.

My harness from Studebakers West cost $312, which is comparable to (maybe even a little less than) a generic harness. My taillight harness was chewed up so I got one of those too for another $69.

Before you go with a generic harness, I urge you to carefully consider what your time is worth, and the effort you'll expend in trying to make it work, as opposed to one that's just plug-and-play, and make for your car.

BTW, I just did up a wiring diagram for '63 Larks with color traces. It's on my blog; the address is below my sig.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

Dick Steinkamp
01-16-2007, 07:37 PM
I used an EZ wire harness in my hot rod...

http://www.ezwiring.com/

The advantages of an aftermarket harness are that you get a modern fuse block, relays, factory terminated wires at the fuse block. Our Studes are so simple electrically that it is not a major deal to figure out where the wires go. Whatever you choose, put a fuseable link/fuse/relay on the main feed. You don't want to burn that Cruiser down :(.



http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

curt
01-17-2007, 04:16 PM
I have ordered a harness from Studebaker West. Question: do they label the wire? I forgot to ask. Did you take the old harness out first and label the old wires as they were removed? Any Advice is welcomb.
An after statement, Eastern OK. is an ice disaster unfolding.

showbizkid
01-17-2007, 06:42 PM
quote:Originally posted by curt

I have ordered a harness from Studebaker West. Question: do they label the wire? I forgot to ask. Did you take the old harness out first and label the old wires as they were removed? Any Advice is welcomb.


SW doesn't label the wires, but they do use the factory color-coding on them. I spent some time with the wiring diagram and a multimeter figuring out what everything went to.

Mr. Biggs' advice on installation (if I can speak for you, Bob :D) is to cut the old harness at the firewall pass-through. Leave everything connected and work the engine portion of the harness through the grommet. That way, you've got the old harness still installed (more or less) and the new one right alongside it, so you can just match wires, unplug the old and plug in the new.

Someone else here (I think it was Matthew) suggested removing the front seat of the car, which I think is a great idea! That way you can lay flat to work under the dash.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com