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  • NOS overdrive

    Is there such a thing as an NOS overdrive? I can get a used one and don't really have a problem with that, but am just curious. I checked a number of online vendors with no luck.

    To install an overdrive box:

    What advantage is there to changing out the transmission as well?

    I have heard that there are complications with the clutch in doing this, but according to the shop manual, you never get to the clutch and common sense agrees with this. The transmission should just slip out of the clutch plate.

    Seems like it would be somewhat easier to just switch out the od box alone. Slip off the u-joint and driveshaft and replace.

    To repeat old information, ALL of the electrical works. It goes into free-wheeling but does not slip into gear.

    I don't have any way of lifting the car in order to comfortably get under it for working, so that is a consideration for me. I would like and/or need to be able to do this from floor jack height in a one-time exercise. Or take it to a shop and have them do the actual work with parts I have obtained.

    '50 Champion, 1 family owner


  • #2
    Bob, you could (well, maybe4 not YOU personally) change out the OD section of your tranny while it's in the car, but I sure wouldn't try to do it that way. It's too easy (comparatively speaking) to just remove the whole tranny and swap the OD section on the bench.

    You say the electrical all works and the tranny freewheels, but won't go into OD. Who diagnosed the electrical? Who's passed judgement on the mechanical part(s)?

    Have you had the solenoid off and bench tested it? Either way, I'd bet there's a 99% chance you're NOT gonna find NOS.


    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1963 Cruiser
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President two door

    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

    Comment


    • #3
      Bob, thanks for the last comment about not finding an NOS one. That's what I figured.

      I am a fairly good shade tree mechanic, but don't have the nicer shop devices and fancy tools. Just sockets and a really nice 4 lb. sledge.

      I diagnosed pretty much everything, with some minor advice from a couple of members of my local SDC and from the forum.

      I started out at the voltage source for the kickdown switch, found that to be bad and replaced it after ohming it out. Checked voltage after installation and it was correct.

      Went on to the relay and it was good. Decided it was too hard to get to the solenoid, so used the "short the governor wire to ground" process and found the solenoid to be good. It clunks on the way in and clicks on the way out.

      That left the governor, and since I already had the wire to it off, I left it off and don't know the condition of the governor.

      The BW manual, and the Studebaker manual, says that the solenoid pushes a pawl into the the od box which then 'changes' the function of the box gearing. On the box, I don't know all the correct terms nor the sequencial function off the top of my head. When the pawl goes in, it creates freewheeling and the od will then engage for drive.

      The drivetrain does go into freewheeling, but when the accelerator is depressed, the engine returns to the appropriate rpms for 3rd gear.

      Forgot to mention, I have checked the shift lever movement and the cable movement and they are both correct and full.



      '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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      • #4
        Bob, you say: "The drivetrain does go into freewheeling, but when the accelerator is depressed, the engine returns to the appropriate rpms for 3rd gear."

        Without that governor connected (or, if it's connected but not functioning correctly), nothing's gonna happen simply because it enters freewheeling as it should. That solenoid has to be energized and move the OD pawl to effect the higher gearing. If you haven't tried this, attach a jumper to the governor wire and bring that jumper up thru the floor somehow, to where you can physically ground it to something metal while you're driving. Then get going in OD - ground the wire and then let off of the gas to see if it drops into OD. If it does, you have proven the governor is malfunctioning.
        Release the wire from the ground you're holding it to and the car should drop out of OD.

        Maybe youi've tried this already, and if so - never mind.[:I]



        1957 Transtar 1/2ton
        1963 Cruiser
        1960 Larkvertible V8
        1958 Provincial wagon
        1953 Commander coupe
        1957 President two door

        No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

        Comment


        • #5
          I wonder if the solenoid arm that engages it might be broken. [?] I know, unlikely.

          Matthew Burnette
          Hazlehurst, GA

          Comment


          • #6
            Sorry about not making that part clear, Biggs. That is exactly what I did with the wire 'to' the governor. Took it inside so I could ground it easily while driving.

            Matt, I am to the point where I think it must be mechanical and am willing to trade the box. I don't want to do a repair job that involves the internals when I could more easily change the box.

            Once again, if I had a way to lift the car up and hold it while I worked at my leisure I would be more willing to do a different method of getting it to work.

            '50 Champion, 1 family owner

            Comment


            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by BobGlasscock



              I started out at the voltage source for the kickdown switch, found that to be bad and replaced it after ohming it out. Checked voltage after installation and it was correct.

              Went on to the relay and it was good. Decided it was too hard to get to the solenoid, so used the "short the governor wire to ground" process and found the solenoid to be good. It clunks on the way in and clicks on the way out.

              That left the governor, and since I already had the wire to it off, I left it off and don't know the condition of the governor.

              .........

              The drivetrain does go into freewheeling, but when the accelerator is depressed, the engine returns to the appropriate rpms for 3rd gear.


              Bob, don't give up yet! You checked the voltage at the switch, but are sure the wires are on their proper terminals? Next you say the solenoid clunk/clicks, can you hear it while driving? You say when the accelerator is depressed, the engine returns to the proper rpm... How far depressed? The fact that it freewheels, tells me that most likely you have an electrical problem

              Jon Krimm
              1962 Lark Sedan

              1961 Champ

              Comment


              • #8
                When did it last work properly? Did the car sit for a long time? I only ask because Rose's Hawk wouldn't go into OD for the first 1000 or so miles we drove after it sat for more than 10 years. After changing the gear oil and just driving it it went into overdrive one afternoon, but wouldn't kick down and disengage. Finally after a few hundred more miles it would kick down out of OD as well. Also, do you have a 6 volt solenoid or 12 volt?

                Fred

                **I'm not the best speller...FireFox catches most of my mistakes, but I use IE at work**

                Comment


                • #9
                  Bob, make absolutely CERTAIN that the overdrive lockout lever on the left rear side of the OD housing is back FULLY against its stop when the control handle is pushed in. If it's a little short of being on the stop, you will get freewheeling, but the OD will not engage.

                  Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                  Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by 62SY4

                    [quote/]
                    Bob, don't give up yet! You checked the voltage at the switch, but are sure the wires are on their proper terminals? Next you say the solenoid clunk/clicks, can you hear it while driving? You say when the accelerator is depressed, the engine returns to the proper rpm... How far depressed? The fact that it freewheels, tells me that most likely you have an electrical problem

                    Jon Krimm
                    1962 Lark Sedan

                    1961 Champ
                    Wires are on the correct terminals per manual.
                    Can I hear it while driving? Well, I'm deaf, so not sure. Definitely when it's sitting though.
                    I feather the accelerator extremely gently and slowly.


                    '50 Champion, 1 family owner

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      quote:Originally posted by ozarkman

                      When did it last work properly? Did the car sit for a long time? I only ask because Rose's Hawk wouldn't go into OD for the first 1000 or so miles we drove after it sat for more than 10 years. After changing the gear oil and just driving it it went into overdrive one afternoon, but wouldn't kick down and disengage. Finally after a few hundred more miles it would kick down out of OD as well. Also, do you have a 6 volt solenoid or 12 volt?

                      Fred

                      **I'm not the best speller...FireFox catches most of my mistakes, but I use IE at work**
                      I remember your post from way back when about the fluid and have intended to try that. It sat for about 35-40 years.

                      It's a 6 volt system.

                      '50 Champion, 1 family owner

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by gordr

                        Bob, make absolutely CERTAIN that the overdrive lockout lever on the left rear side of the OD housing is back FULLY against its stop when the control handle is pushed in. If it's a little short of being on the stop, you will get freewheeling, but the OD will not engage.

                        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                        I checked that movement a long time ago because I suspected the cable was stuck or bent. I removed the cable and the lever moved from front to rear extremes smoothly. I re-attached the cable and got the same movement from both under the car and with the T-handle.

                        '50 Champion, 1 family owner

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Bob, is this the Champion in your sig. line? It's a six, right?


                          Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                          K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                          Ron Smith
                          Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?
                          Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
                          K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
                          Ron Smith
                          Where the heck is Fawn Lodge, CA?

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                          • #14
                            Yes it is, Ron.

                            '50 Champion, 1 family owner

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                            • #15
                              I have seen the pawl that that solenoid moves, be broken. The one I saw (and I've heard of others) had split where the solenoid's shaft fits into it. Everything worked except that when the solenoid actuated, it couldn't shift said pawl to effect OD.
                              Wish I had an appropriate tranny layin' about here. Only one I have for an earlier car is for a Commander and that wouldn't help you one bit.[V]
                              I'm kinda miffed at a local guy who rodded a 50 I sold him and then junked the complete rolling chassis after I told him the thing wasn't worth much. I was HOPING he'd ask me if I wanted it back, but instead he gave it to a scrapper guy.[xx(]


                              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
                              1963 Cruiser
                              1960 Larkvertible V8
                              1958 Provincial wagon
                              1953 Commander coupe
                              1957 President two door

                              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

                              Comment

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