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View Full Version : 64 Daytona electrical problem (previously carb)



Glenn Hansel
09-26-2009, 04:38 PM
It did turn out to be a problem with the points. There was basically no gap. When I widened the gap a couple of times to get it about right, it fired right up!!!

Question: What is the right gap for the points on a 64 Daytona with a 259 V8?

In addition, the condenser and points were replaced by a mechanic only 300 miles ago. However I can wiggle the distributoe shaft slightly (not just the rotor, the whole shaft wiggle a bit). Here is a theory about what went wrong, but I would like your input (excuse me if I don't use the right lingo):

The distributer shaft bushing(?) is worn. This is causing the points to go out of "alignment" thereby having an adverse affect on the engine's tune, until finally it runs so badly it quit. What do you guys think?

1. If it is the shaft bushing (or bearing), how easy a fix is this for a shade tree mechanic like me or is this best left to a professional?

2. Would I buy a rebuilt distributor shaft or what is the procedure for this (if in fact you guys think this may be the problem)?

Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for helping me through this. I was getting discouraged. I am glad I replaced just about everything in the fuel delivery system, as it was needed. By the way, the new carb I installed looks great.

Warren Webb
09-26-2009, 04:47 PM
The shaft bushing wear is typical for Prestolite distributors. Any repair will no doubt be temporary. The best solution is to get a Delco, preferably one from a 60 or 61- a "window" distributor. Much more reliable & longer lasting.

With points, the gap is .016 or between 26 & 33 degrees dwell.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

Dick Steinkamp
09-26-2009, 05:53 PM
quote:Originally posted by Glenn Hansel

It did turn out to be a problem with the points. There was basically no gap. When I widened the gap a couple of times to get it about right, it fired right up!!!


In addition, the condenser and points were replaced by a mechanic only 300 miles ago.





If the mechanic didn't lube the distributor cam when he replaced the points, the fiber block part of the points that rubs on the cam will wear quickly (about 300 miles :)). When that fiber block wears, the point gap gets smaller until it is zero.

If the dist is not totally worn out, I'd replace the points, properly lube the distributor cam, and give it a go.



Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/63%20Daytona%20done/PP026-1.jpg

maxpower1954
09-26-2009, 09:56 PM
Glenn; I know the car isn't yours, but the best long term solution is to score a Delco window type distributor from a 60-61 Lark V-8
(shouldn't be hard to find) and convert it to electronic ignition...the Petronix #1181 works very well. The quality of points and condensors has been moving steadily downhill for years;
do your friend a favor and just get rid of them. I've had electronic ignition on my Avanti for 14 years and 30,000 miles and haven't touched a thing. Good job tracking this problem down! Russ Farris

http://www.amazon.com/Pertronix-1181-Ignitor-II/dp/B000N2U5E6

jallen
09-27-2009, 04:55 AM
There is a member that uses the name "Bud"
who might be able to rebuild your distributor for you. If you pull the
distributor BE SURE to mark the direction
the rotor is pointing. Good Luck, still
waiting to see pictures.

Bud
09-27-2009, 08:36 AM
I can rebuild the original Prestolite distributor for you. I have all of the parts necessary to do a complete rebuild including advance weights with bronze bushings.If you want to use a Delco distributor, I would recommend the earlier non window unit as they are plentiful, work as well or better than the window distributor and they are a bunch cheaper. The big problem with the Prestolite distributors was the non bushed advance weights wearing and causing timing problems. I've installed the upgraded advance weights in my Prestolite distributors with good results. With any Stude distributor, a couple of drops of oil in the oil cup on the side of the distributor every 1000 miles or so will lengthen the life of the upper bushing considerably. Bud

jnfweber
09-27-2009, 04:32 PM
quote:Originally posted by maxpower1954

Glenn; I know the car isn't yours, but the best long term solution is to score a Delco window type distributor from a 60-61 Lark V-8
(shouldn't be hard to find) and convert it to electronic ignition...the Petronix #1181 works very well. The quality of points and condensors has been moving steadily downhill for years;
do your friend a favor and just get rid of them. I've had electronic ignition on my Avanti for 14 years and 30,000 miles and haven't touched a thing. Good job tracking this problem down! Russ Farris

http://www.amazon.com/Pertronix-1181-Ignitor-II/dp/B000N2U5E6
E-bay has a Delco distrubutor from a '71 Corvette, complete with cap & wires for around $40 including shipping. Auction ends at 19:42:16 PDT today, 9/27. It looks VERY good. Would this drop into a 289? If so, it would be a good buy, and easy to install a Petronix ignition. Check out this URL:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/late-60s-early-70s-Delco-Remy-Distributor-1111015_W0QQitemZ180410166310QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessori es?hash=item2a0148ac26&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

Jack in Montana

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2655/3929344720_e7394136ee_m.jpghttp://farm3.static.flickr.com/2470/3928561331_f424396fab.jpghttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3489/3928561353_c4664768c6_o.jpghttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3513/3929344782_9096654180_o.jpghttp://farm4.static.flickr.com/3501/3928561375_d0190be0ea.jpghttp://farm3.static.flickr.com/2620/3939051288_206475de93.jpg

jallen
09-27-2009, 04:48 PM
AFAIK, NO Corvette distributor will work
in a Stude V8. Also, any used distributor
will more than likely need a rebuild to
operate in a satisfactory way.

Roscomacaw
09-27-2009, 07:34 PM
This Corvette distributor wouldn't even begin to work. Delco used the top section of their late 50s, - early 60s distributor and adapted it by implementing a base, drive gear and oil pump drive shaft that would integrate with Studebaker's V8. But one will not even begin to swap from a GM engine to a Stude engine or vise versa.

http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/30906179/aview/58_Avatar.jpg
1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

Roscomacaw
09-27-2009, 07:38 PM
This Corvette distributor wouldn't even begin to work. Delco used the top section of their late 50s, - early 60s distributor and adapted it by implementing a base, drive gear and oil pump drive shaft that would integrate with Studebaker's V8. But one will not even begin to swap from a GM engine to a Stude engine or vise versa.

http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/30906179/aview/58_Avatar.jpg
1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

jnfweber
09-27-2009, 10:15 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

This Corvette distributor wouldn't even begin to work. Delco used the top section of their late 50s, - early 60s distributor and adapted it by implementing a base, drive gear and oil pump drive shaft that would integrate with Studebaker's V8. But one will not even begin to swap from a GM engine to a Stude engine or vise versa.

http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/30906179/aview/58_Avatar.jpg
1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door


After looking in the Avanti shop manual, I can see the difference. It would be pretty hard to adapt the bottom end. This distributor may work in '65-66 GM engines and later Avanti II's.

Glenn Hansel
10-02-2009, 02:45 PM
1. What do you guys think the best solution would be, putting in the Delco or putting in the Delco distributor and converting to electronic ignition?

2. About how expensive would each of the options be?

3. Would the distributor shaft need to be replaced or just the distributor, cap, rotor, etc?

4. Could a basic shade tree mechanic like me do this job (with help from someone who knows how to set the timing once I've got it in place)?

Sorry for my ignorance - I'm used to driving newer vehicles and diesels. Any help will be appreciated.

BRUCESTUDE
10-02-2009, 10:49 PM
I sent my '64 Daytona's worn out Prestolite dist. to a Portland, Or. co. that rebuilt it. It didn't take too long, and it looks and works great! They can install a Pertronix in it also. Here is their website:
http://www.philbingroup.com/rebuilt/distributors.htm

Glenn Hansel
10-03-2009, 04:00 PM
Brucestude, maybe your solution is the easiest? and most cost effective?

I'm pretty ignorant on this. Do I just remove the distributor or will the shaft come out with it also? Does anyone have a procedure for what I need to do since the shaft bushing is apparently out of commission on this car?

Thanks

maxpower1954
10-04-2009, 12:19 AM
Glenn, the distributor is all one unit. It's gear driven off the rear of the camshaft. Below the helical gear is a long shaft that turns the oil pump. Some one will probably post a picture of a removed distributor to give you some idea.

I know it's not your car, but a Studebaker Shop Manual reprint (around 50 bucks)is the best invesment you can do.i't answers answer 90% of your questions on work like this. It's very well-written (for the most part) and I can't imagine working on my Studebakers without it. The section on distributor removal, installation and setting the timing is very concise. You can get it from Studebaker International, among other vendors. And it can stay with the car, for the next happy owner to use.

I think the most cost-effective plan would be to find a Delco window-type from a 60-61 Lark V-8. Shouldn't be hard to find, and they don't have the wear problems of the Prestolite. 50 bucks is about average. On reflection, I wouldn't bother with the expense of converting it to electronic ignition, since your friend doesn't drive the car much - just use the best points and condenser; NAPA would be my choice instead of Autozone, ect. I used Delcos for years on my GT and Avanti before I converted to Mopar electronic. I actually have a Delco distibutor here, ready to drop in the next Lark I buy with a worn out Presto...Russ Farris

Roscomacaw
10-04-2009, 02:14 PM
The earlier Delco is just as good as the window - it's also alot more plentiful and cheaper. Most window Delcos for Studes go for $100+;)

http://imagehost.vendio.com/a/30906179/aview/58_Avatar.jpg
1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

Glenn Hansel
10-04-2009, 05:30 PM
I should have read Dick Steinkamps advice more closely. My guess is that maybe the mechanic that replaced the condensor and points did not lube the distributor, but that is only a guess. I will try to lube the distributor cam first. I saw where you can add oil on the distributor.

1. What is the proper way to lube it?
2. How often should it be lubed?


If that doesn't work, I will look into ordering another distributor.

Thanks again for all the great advice.

Glenn Hansel
10-04-2009, 05:34 PM
Also, if possible, let me know if there is a preferred weight oil to use.

By the way Dick, you have a nice looking Studebaker.