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John Kirchhoff
01-11-2007, 04:30 PM
Dick, I'm really impressed with the wet sanding jobs you do on your cars. I think I saw that you use 1200-1600 grit sandpaper but what do you use to back it up with? Your hand, a foam sanding block or your wife's old wedding dress....wait, better nix that last one, women are kind of funny about such things. :(
Thanks!

Dick Steinkamp
01-11-2007, 04:56 PM
I'm a rookie. I don't know the "right" way to do it. I just double the paper over a couple of times and use my hand with very little pressure. Lots of water. The surface will smooth out, the paint will have an even color, but it will be foggy dull. You'll need the polishing compound step to get some gloss. Use the finest paper you can to get the job done. 2000 may work. 1500 should for sure. Watch the edges. The sandpaper can burn through them quicker than the flat surfaces.

If it has the possibility of being real nice when it's done, ask a pro the "right" way to do it. :D

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/131/354114035_77d8c46a5f_m.jpg
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

dave smith
01-11-2007, 05:41 PM
you should use rubber sanding blocks, available at most parts houses
or auto paint stores, start with 1200 then 1500 then 2000 grit.
adding some dishwashing soap to the water helps a bunch. then rubbing compound.

skyway
01-11-2007, 06:14 PM
The use of a block is hard to argue against.

That said, My former body man, a true magician, now 82 years old, always insisted that the best sanding block was the flat of your hand, with all 4 fingers and thumb raised off the surface. No finger sanding ever, no matter how long the flat of the hand method took.

It seems to work, too.

DEEPNHOCK
01-11-2007, 09:25 PM
Cheap Sandpaper Trick 101...
You should take a full sheet of sandpaper and fold it into quarters.
Then tear one of the folds halfway across.
Fold the one side over first, so the abrasive is always against the back of the sandpaper.
http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/FoldingSandpaper.jpg
Folding it this way keeps the abrasives away from each other and your sandpaper will last a LOT longer.
I save my old, worn, Bondo scrapers and cut them down to slip into the first fold. Acts as a backer to keep the flat surface flat for flat panels like doors and hoods. Bare hands work ok, but your fingertips are lumpy (to a hood);)
Jeff[8D]



quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

I'm a rookie. I don't know the "right" way to do it. I just double the paper over a couple of times and use my hand with very little pressure. Lots of water. The surface will smooth out, the paint will have an even color, but it will be foggy dull. You'll need the polishing compound step to get some gloss. Use the finest paper you can to get the job done. 2000 may work. 1500 should for sure. Watch the edges. The sandpaper can burn through them quicker than the flat surfaces.

If it has the possibility of being real nice when it's done, ask a pro the "right" way to do it. :D

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/131/354114035_77d8c46a5f_m.jpg
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
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Dick Steinkamp
01-11-2007, 09:50 PM
How about circular vs back and forth motion (no comments from the peanut gallery [:0])



http://farm1.static.flickr.com/131/354114035_77d8c46a5f_m.jpg
Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

bradnree
01-11-2007, 09:54 PM
I sand by hand and have for years. I use 1200 wet-dry on rust and rough areas with a spray bottle of water. Keep the paper clean with water. I use 1500-2000 on the painted areas. I then use an air driven polisher with an agressive cleaner and an air polisher finally with a polish. Use any good cleaner and any good polish-wax. My wife is trying to get pics to photobucket.com to show you before and afters of a '52 Commander I purchased 6 weeks ago and a '47 Champ I purchased on 1/10. I did the champ in a very small area to see what color it really is, and it is light gray. Is there any photo storeage on line that is easy to use so we can share the pics ????????????????????...........Brad

DEEPNHOCK
01-11-2007, 09:55 PM
No circles.. All straight lines with a cross pattern.
Put masking tape on all sharp panel edges and still try to stay away from them.
Wet, wet, WET. Take an old dishwasher bottle and put a few drops of dishwash detergent in it and fill it with warm water. Squirt the water from your bottle on an area and start to work. Keep it wet. Rinse often with the hose to check progress.
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

How about circular vs back and forth motion (no comments from the peanut gallery [:0])

52ragtop
01-11-2007, 11:40 PM
Wet Sanding 101:

1:ALWAYS use a block or "holy pad" (1/4: rubber pad with holes in it)
1A: NEVER NEVER NEVER use just your hand! (no comments Calvin) <G>
2:ALWAYS use clean water and a little dish soap (scratches won't be as deep)
3: ALWAYS block in a straight line and DIAGONAL, but NEVER in circles
4: ALWAYS use a rubber pad to "squeege" the water off and SEE what you have
4: ALWAYS use 3/4" masking tape on "high edges" (so you don't sand off too much color, then "burn" (buff) though the high edges
5: ALWAYs fold the sand paper in 1/2, then tear it, then fold in 3rds, This will also wrap around holy pad (see #1)
6: when ever COLOR sanding, NEVER use anything less the 1200 grit, 2000 grit is better.
7: when wet sanding primer for final time in preperation for color coat, NEVER EVER use anything MORE then 400 grit (and the surface will be TOO smooth for paint to stick
8: when wet sanding OR blocking mud work (filler in contoured areas) ALWAYS use a round hard rubber hose and block DIAGONAL to the contour
9: ALWAYS pay CLOSE attention to what you are doing! even 2000 grit will take a LOT of color off, and you will end up with thin paint
10: when buffing, MAXIMUM RPM is 2400, use 3M Super Duty Compound
11: ALWAYS keep the buffer moving fairly fast!DO NOT STOP in one area
12: NEVER put your weight into the buffer, let the weight of the buffer do the work
13: ALWAYS follow up with a good coat of wax, DO NOT worry if the wax can says "for clear coat paints" That does not matter
14: DON'T be cheap, buy a couple of buffing pads, GOOD ones (I like the 2 sided ones)
15: ALWAYS after using compound, change pads and use a high speed polish

I can probably do this in my sleep, I've done it so much, and I'm sure I left a step or two out, but the basics are lots of soapy water, lots "water logged hands" and a LOT of patience, and you can make poor paint look pretty decent.

If you are doing your own body work, (I'll leave out my feelings about that) <G> remember one thing BLOCK it, BLOCK it, and BLOCK it some more!

Jim

tstclr
01-12-2007, 07:15 AM
As an example on how you can achieve excellent results from wet sanding, check out this 69 Charger and guess what he used to paint it:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/paint/DSC02763.jpg

Pretty glossy, no flaws:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/paint/DSC03734.jpg
What did he use? He painted the car with Tremclad rust paint (aka Rustoleum in the U.S) using a foam roller! There is a thread on Moparts.com that is over 80 pages long talking about this method. It is amazing! In a nutshell, you mix the paint with about 15-25% mineral spirits, roll it on lightly, wait a minute, and go over it again with the roller. After two coats, you wetsand it and apply another coat. Because it goes on so thin, you need to do several coats. After the final coat, you wetsand and polish. The owner of the Charger has less than $75 invested in painting the car. No overspray, no respirator. There are several other examples on the site of cars painted this way. Maybe not appropriate for an R2 Hawk, but sufficient for a driver/local cruise night Lark! Apparently the finish is rock hard and is difficult to scratch. Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but I found it quite fascinating. I'm going to try it on a junk fender this weekend for a kick.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/larkavitar.jpg
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/64daytonaavitar.jpg

bradnree
01-12-2007, 08:32 AM
Thanks for the tip....Brad
quote:Originally posted by tstclr

As an example on how you can achieve excellent results from wet sanding, check out this 69 Charger and guess what he used to paint it:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/paint/DSC02763.jpg

Pretty glossy, no flaws:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/paint/DSC03734.jpg
What did he use? He painted the car with Tremclad rust paint (aka Rustoleum in the U.S) using a foam roller! There is a thread on Moparts.com that is over 80 pages long talking about this method. It is amazing! In a nutshell, you mix the paint with about 15-25% mineral spirits, roll it on lightly, wait a minute, and go over it again with the roller. After two coats, you wetsand it and apply another coat. Because it goes on so thin, you need to do several coats. After the final coat, you wetsand and polish. The owner of the Charger has less than $75 invested in painting the car. No overspray, no respirator. There are several other examples on the site of cars painted this way. Maybe not appropriate for an R2 Hawk, but sufficient for a driver/local cruise night Lark! Apparently the finish is rock hard and is difficult to scratch. Didn't mean to hijack the thread, but I found it quite fascinating. I'm going to try it on a junk fender this weekend for a kick.
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/larkavitar.jpg
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/64daytonaavitar.jpg

John Kirchhoff
01-12-2007, 10:26 AM
You folks are a wealth of information! Thanks!

JDP
01-13-2007, 12:10 AM
Here's the thread on roller painting

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

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