General Electric Questions

[drnittler]

For Studes and others from the 50's and 60's, if headlights, tail lights, brake lights do not work, what do I look for?
Notes:
My headlights are new.
My tail light bulbs and sockets are ok.
Wires are connected.
Dash light works and dimmer indicator, on the dash, works.
What else is there to check that all these problems have in common?
All I can figure is the headlight switch and dimmer switch.
Please advise.
Thanks.

David G. Nittler

[BobGlasscock]

The brake lights are not associated with the light switch, so I would look for the common power source to the light buss. I would think that this place would vary on different models, so the year and model of the car would help. For the rest of the lights it could be the switch. I think that the determining factor would be found by electrical diagnosis starting at a light socket and working back towards the source.

'50 Champion, 1 family owner

[drnittler]

It is a 50 Ford car.

David G. Nittler

[warrlaw1]

Studebaker drivers have seldom seen the tail lights of a 50 Ford. What do they look like?

[Skip Lackie]

As BobG said, the brake lights are usually on a completely different circuit from the rest of the lights. Their wiring does, however, go through the directional signal switch (but the headlight and taillight wiring doesn't). Assuming your Ford has a pressure-activated brake light switch like Studes did, you need to find that switch, which is tapped into a brake line close to the master cylinder. Remove both wires and touch them together. If the brake lights come on, then it's the switch that's bad. If they don't, you have a wiring problem, either between the battery and the switch, or between the switch and the brake lights. It also could be a fuse, of course.

A small 6v or 12v bulb in a socket with two bare wires hanging from it is handy to check for power. For example, touch one wire to the frame or any handy ground, and touch the other to one and then the other of the wires going to the brake light switch. The bulb should light on the one coming from the battery. If it doesn't, then that's the bad wire. The same can be done on the wires to the light switch. The heaviest one is usually the hot feed from the battery, and should be hot all the time. The other contacts are often marked H=head, T=tail, etc. They should light the bulb when touched and the light switch is in the correct position.

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[drnittler]

Progress is being made. I have one dim light and one bright light. So at least the dimmer switch is ok. No tail or brake lights so far.

David G. Nittler

[gordr]

Look for bad grounds at all the lamp assemblies.

Look for a bad or missing ground between the body and frame, or where the positive terminal of the battery is supposed to connect to ground.

The positive battery cable probably goes to some point on the engine block. There should be a short thick ground wire or braid from some point on the engine block to the frame, and also from the frame to the body.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Bud]

I would say to start looking for corroded connections and bad ground connections. If I remember correctly, the 50 Ford didn't come stock with turn signals, though they were an option. The brake lights use the same switch as our Stude's. Also check the ground connection between the engine block and the frame and or body. The car is 60 years old so corrosion is a big problem. Bud

[drnittler]

Thanks. You are right, signals were an option.

David G. Nittler