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Jett289
08-29-2009, 12:19 PM
I have a 289 v8 that was rebuilt several years ago by a reputable studebaker guy.. The engine sat for many years before being run.. Now after about 12,000 miles its still using a fair bit of oil.. It doesnt show any blue smoke when accelerating but shows blue when de-acceterating.. Dooesnt leak any oil and goes through about a litre every 500 or 600 miles.. Aything specific I should look for ?? Thanks very much for any of the responses..

Love my Lark

maxpower1954
08-29-2009, 01:22 PM
That's bad valve seals. The smoke when de-accelerating is the clue. Russ Farris

Jett289
08-29-2009, 03:29 PM
Im not to mechanically inclined but that was my first thought as well.. Thanks very much ..

Love my Lark

ST2DE5
08-29-2009, 07:23 PM
See if you can find 30 weight Rotella and a quart of Lucas. See if it makes any difference.. It sure did on my old truck.

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd185/51stude/StudebakerPlant.jpg
7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2

Dick Steinkamp
08-29-2009, 07:52 PM
It's so to change out those valve stem seals that I would just go for it. I'd recommend the Ford seals shown on Nate's Interchange Pages...

http://members.cox.net/njnagel/files/Interchange.pdf

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/63%20Daytona%20done/PP026-1.jpg

Jett289
08-30-2009, 01:51 AM
Dick I think your right and that is what I will look at doing for sure .. Thanks for the help.. Probably see more of me on here now that I have a drivable Studebaker again.. really looking forward to it..

Randy

Love my Lark

leyrret
08-30-2009, 07:20 AM
You can try valves seals but I would suspect rings. The high vacuum with a closed throttle pulls oil past rings, while pressure under load seals them. I've seen this on re-ring jobs with a worn cylinder bore. Valves seals as a rule will give you a puff of blue smoke when you first start engine as oil accumulates after seeping down valve guides while setting.

Bud
08-30-2009, 10:22 AM
I agree with leyrret, valve stem seals usually don't cause smoke on deceleration. That is usually caused by oil getting by the rings caused by high vacuum when the throttle is closed. I would suspect that the rings haven't seated correctly. Bud

Jett289
08-30-2009, 11:38 PM
Hmmm this is sounding more serious .. So if the rings havent seated correctly after 12000 miles then what ?? Im not to sure on the extent of the rebuild and how long ago it was done..

Love my Lark

maxpower1954
08-30-2009, 11:57 PM
I respectly disagree on the valve seals. I had a 1960 Lark with a 259 that came out of 20 years of barn storage. Smoked very little on initial
start-up, but on deceleration, especially coming down a steep hill with the engine at idle under drive-train load it looked like the mosquito fogging trucks I saw as a kid in Florida! On the advice of Trett Ray (you long-time NCSDC members remember him) I replaced the valve seals with the original style. The ones on the engine were so hard and brittle that some of them shattered when hit with a hammer! The smoking completely vanished after replacement. I'm not saying that's your problem, but it's much easier to start trouble-shooting by replacing valve seals than to tear down an engine. Russ Farris

Jett289
08-31-2009, 12:24 AM
My first 64 Daytona did pretty much the same thing as your 60 lark .. After a few hundred miles it cleared itself up hence why I thought it was valve seals.. I really appreciate all the replys and will probably be back with more questions to show how little mechanically inclined I am .. lol Randy

Love my Lark

JeffDeWitt
08-31-2009, 12:48 AM
The old trick is to get up to speed, then take your foot off the gas and let the car slow down. Then punch it and see if you get any smoke. (Note, be sure it's not freewheeling when you slow down!).

When it's slowing you get high engine vacuum and if the rings aren't seating properly oil will get pulled into the combustion chambers. When you punch it that oil will get burned.

Jeff DeWitt
http://carolinastudes.net
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q33/Jeff_DeWitt/IM001571-1.jpg

maxpower1954
08-31-2009, 12:54 AM
Hey at least your learning, Randy! The more involved in the maintenance of your Stude you are, the happier an owner you will be.

High oil consumption on an engine that has sat for years is normal in the cars I've had. Even after the valves seals were replaced in the 60 Lark, it never got better than a quart every 500-600 miles. Rings get stuck, and I think that is the biggest issue on an engine that has sat a long time.

Do you have a trusted Stude mechanic? Replacing the seals isn't that hard, there are a few different techniques to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder with the keepers removed. Russ Farris

Jett289
08-31-2009, 11:27 PM
Thanks Jeff I will give it a try and see what happens.. No Russ I dont know of any trusted Stude mechanics but I do know a few members in the Calgary chapter that I will be talking with .. Hopefully they can lead me to a trusted mechanic.. Still like to kind of know what is wrong with the engine since that will make dealing with the mechanic a bit easier.. Thanks again guys..

Randy

Love my Lark

leyrret
09-01-2009, 07:02 AM
When you pull your valve covers make sure there is no blockage preventing oil drain out of valve cover area. Could be a factor but will usually
result in oil burning all the time. Check valve seals, and you may be able to detect noticeable movement of valves in head if excessive clearance. If you replace the seals by using air pressure in cylinder would be an opportune time to check leak down in cylinder Oil burning as you describe is symptomatic of rings. That being said I've learned nothing is a given. Here's a recent example I encountered with my Mustang. A problem in the secondary ignition(cap,rotor, plug wires,plugs) usually results in a misfire under load due to the increased voltage required to fire a plug under load. This car has always run great except occasionally when it's sets in cold wheather it doesn't want to run on first try. Never worried about it as car always ran. In last few months has picked up misfire at any speed with very light throttle when cruising. In addition it wants to run like crap for a few seconds when revs up on start up before it idles back down similar to what it does in cold weather. Once with a dead miss for about a minute. Runs fine after that except for cruising miss fire. I figured maybe injector was sticking as it appears fuel related. Last week I started it and the dead miss was there so I pop the hood to try to determine which cylinder was at fault before it cleared up. Heard a clicking sound, figured injector maybe.I grabbed a plug wire to move it and it gave me a jolt.
Replaced the wire and it runs fine. The only thing I can come up with they were effecting timing at light throttle when cruising. My point is I would have never suspected wires from the way it was acting. Incidentally the wires had less than 40000 on them. Bought new at Advance.
Probably made in China. I found an American made set with a lifetime warranty at NAPA

Jett289
09-01-2009, 02:04 PM
Must have been quite a jolt.. I will keep these tips in mind. What year Mustang?? I traded my 93 gt last year for a Contour SVT.. I had a 88 gt brand new as well.. Love the style of the 87 to 93 gt's

Love my Lark

leyrret
09-01-2009, 05:13 PM
It a standard 95 Mustang ,3.8v6 with power everything. Great driving car and has been very reliable.