New Tech tip.

[gordr]

I don't think I've ever seen this addressed before.

I've been working on the rear brakes of the Avanti. Shoes are like new, probably because the cylinders were seized up solid. And there was .020" end play on the axles instead of the .006 called for. Ouch! Lots of nice grease in the bearings, though.

Anyway, I had to remove the backing plates. If you have ever tried to remove the parking brake cables from the backing plate, you'll appreciate that it can be real hard to squeeze down all four legs of the little clip that retains the jacket in the backing plate.

Well, I found a solution that works slick. Simply tighten a small worm-drive hose clamp on the clip legs about 1/4" from the inner side of backing plate. That compresses all four legs of the clip. Pull the cable out until the hose clamp butts up against the backing plate, and maintain tension on it as you loosen the screw on the clamp, and out it comes. Takes less time to do it than it took me to type it up.

The action of the clamp is analogous to using a piston ring compressor when installing pistons in an engine block.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Mark57]

Neat suggestion... Thanks Gord!

<h5>Mark
'57 Transtar Deluxe
Vancouver Island Chapter
http://visdc.shawwebspace.ca/ </h5>

[jlmccuan]

Good idea. Beats my method which requires 2 pairs of pliers and 4 hands. 4 hands are needed because there is usually a finger pinched to the point requiring bandages rendering 1 hand unuseable.

Jim
Often in error, never in doubt

____1966 Avanti II RQA 0088_______________1963 Avanti R2 63R3152____________Rabid Snail Racing

[studeski]

That's too much work. A 1/2" box wrench is faster. I don't remember if a 6 point works better but that's what I use.

Claude Chmielewski
Studeski

http://www.studeski.com

Fillmore, Wisconsin
47 M-16 Truck
62 GT Hawk
63 Lark
64 Commander Wagonaire
50 Champion Regal (parts car)
63 GT Hawk R2
[img=left]http://www.studeski.com/62hawk/62hawka/dakota01_250.jpg[/img=left]

[DEEPNHOCK]

I used a line wrench last time I did that..

quote:Originally posted by studeski

That's too much work. A 1/2" box wrench is faster. I don't remember if a 6 point works better but that's what I use.

[gordr]

The box wrench is a good idea, too. Never thought of that.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[jimmijim8]

Same job different ways. 1 st poster always stands a chance of being trumped. Thanks Gord for being the first to share without being obliged. Thanks for your methods other brothers. jimmijim

Stude Junkie+++++++Do it right the f$$$$ Time. Never mind. Just do it right. When youre done your done. You'll know it.

[gordr]

Here's an update, with picture. I'm now on the put-together side of the curve. Both backing plates are now back on, and the axles installed, minus the necessary shims to get the end play down to a civilized value.

I tried out a new tool, an air-powered needle scaler, to remove old paint, rust, and undercoat from the frame rails. Works like magic! The crap just melts off, and the noise is a loud buzz, not too bad at all. And it gets into curves and recesses fairly well, too. Did a fine job on the edges of the spring leaves. It doesn't completely eliminate hand scraping, but it sure reduces it. For $30, it was a good buy. I used the needle scaler on the frame rail and spring in the picture, and followed up with some black satin trim paint.



The traction bars were missing from this car, so I got a set of NOS from Dave Thibault at the meet in Cedar Rapids, and hung 'em on there. All I have left to do for the rear brakes: sand blast the drums, glass bead the shoes and small parts, and assemble everything. Cylinders are honed, and the cups and pistons cleaned. Backing plates are on. Park brake cables are free and functional.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands