Weatherstrip adhesion

[Guest]

It's been my experience when re-weatherstripping after a paintjob or just replacing hardened old stuff, new stuff won't adhere unless I lightly scuff sand the 'business' side.
I've had new wx-strip fall off without doing this, even after following directions to allow time for the adhesive to tack up.

My question is, has anyone else had this problem and how have you solved it?

[KGlowacky]

I always have had great luck installing new weatherstrip after a new paint job. I use 3M super adh. I scuff up the new paint and apply 3M on both sides let it sit for about 4 minutes apply one light coat to the rubber and stick it together. Never had a problem.

[Dick Steinkamp]

I do the same as KGlowacky, PLUS clean the new weatherstrip with lacquer thinner PLUS sand the biz side...but the door jamb weather strip on my '63 Lark will not stick no matter WHAT I do. I need more tricks.



Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[sweetolbob]

Just thinking out loud for a minute. [xx(]

If you are losing adhesion it is important to observe at what interface the adhesion is failing. My bet is at the foam/adhesive interface. If that is the case, I would forego the lacquer thinner as it could swell the surface and reduce adhesion or reduce the cohesion in the foam. I'd try an alcohol if you want to clean it.

Sanding could roughen the surface, which you want, but be sure to clean afterwards to remove loose particles that could reduce adhesion.

As a thought, I might try a cut or two into the adhesive surface of the foam at the point that results in failure to reduce the stress in that area and increase the sealing surface.

No guarantees but at least some thoughts

Bob

[bige]

The "B" pillar weatherstip on my Avanti must be made of Teflon because I could remove all the different adhesives I've tried just by rubbing my thumb on it. I have to go to the garage to read the can but the only thing that keeps it on is a 3M product in a can that brushes on. I think it's just called trim adhesive, it's clear and thick. However, if I were to pull on the weatherstrip it will come off cleanly. There must be silicon in some of these repros.

If they come off again I will try the double sided tape that holds exterior moldings on.


On its way to a 15.097 Island Dragway Great Meadows NJ Spring 2006.

[nels]

Bige,
I thought the same thing, they must be using silicone to manufacture. A friend used silicone rubber as a adhesive and said it worked best but it takes a while to set up.

[Tom Bredehoft]

Just a thought, I once worked in a boat plant making fibreglas hulls.

They sprayed the molds with silicone mold release compound. I suppose it could bond permanently to the gelcoat

[img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
Tom Bredehoft
'53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
'55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
....On the road, again....
'05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
All Indiana built cars

[sweetolbob]

Thanks Biggs, I didn't think about mold release. Most are insoluable in most solvents that won't destroy the rubber.

I would try a soaking and good scrub in a hot soap solution with a good detergent like Dawn, heavy on the soap. With luck, you might just emulsify the surface contamination.

Flush with several washes of clear water.

Bob

[Roscomacaw]

In installing all the new WS on my Cruiser, I put a drum sander attachment to scuff up the glue side of the rubber. It's a pain to do, but it's really held well (without scuffing the new paint) EXCEPT for the cast rubber sections. They respond to this treatment too, but just not as well as the extruded, foam core stuff.
I heard the release agent for the cast parts is impossible to get rid of - shy of really scuffing the glued surface area.[}]


1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[sweetolbob]

Biggs

My guess is the problem with the solid parts is not release agent but plasticizer, which can bleed out for quite a while.

The vent window gaskets I bought and installed about 8 months ago have just quit bleeding and that's after a lot of scrubbing with alcohol (not Jack Daniels, I use that to build courage) on several occassions.

I don't have a good answer for that problems other to let them set in the sun and clean then repeatedly.

Bob

[jclary]

Just another thing to consider is the "out-gassing" of the solvents in your paint. Some paints can continue to release solvents for an extended time even though they appear to be dry. A good consult with your paint rep might be in order.

John Clary
Greer, SC

Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
SDC member since 1975

[warrlaw1]

If a surface had "Armour All" or "Tremclad" on it at some point, seems little else will stick there. Paint won't stick, glue probably less so.