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stainless reveal in windshield rubber

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  • stainless reveal in windshield rubber

    Ok i have looked and tried but no matter what i cannot figure out how to install the reveal molding into the rubber for the windshield. any and all help would be apperciated. It is on a 1950 commander by the way my mind doesn't always put things in the correct order.

  • #2
    Liquid soap (or some other water miscable lubricant - intimacy lube might work really well if you've got a bottle on the nightstand![}]), patience, and a salvo of four-letter words might serve to install that trim. The 53 and later cars had the reveal mouldings inserted into the gasket BEFORE the gasket-glass combo was installed into the car.
    The shop manual for your 50 says nothing more than: (After the windshield has been installed)"Install the reveal moulding, the inner W/S trim and the rear view mirror."[|)]

    Miscreant at large.

    1957 Transtar 1/2ton
    1960 Larkvertible V8
    1958 Provincial wagon
    1953 Commander coupe
    1957 President 2-dr
    1955 President State
    1951 Champion Biz cpe
    1963 Daytona project FS
    No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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    • #3
      rickomo1,

      Some of the repo rubber for the pre-53 cars is not made exactly like the factory rubber. I have talked to several people and the trim MUST go on after the window is installed on Pre 53 cars since the glass goes in from the inside. There is no way of installing it from the outside. I have been told that there is work being done to improve the rubber for the pre 53 cars. I don't know where that stands but I have given up on mine until I can get the redesigned rubber. If you look at a crossection of original rubber vs new they are not the same the new rubber is lacking in depth from the trim lip to the inside seating surface, this prevents the windows from going in all the way and makes the trim lip set at an angle. Reproduction of rubber is complex since you can't use a good NOS piece to make a mold since rubber shrinks as it cures. Even if you use the factory blue prints the rubber today is different.

      I did talk to Jim Turner and he took his 52 to a glass shop here in Indianapolis and they somehow got the trim in. I have tried about everything on mine and have damaged one piece of trim and that's when I called it quits until better rubber is made, hopefully soon!

      Wish I had better news





      Restore it, don't replace it.Keep the Studebaker reproduction industry going

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      • #4
        Thanks for the support and answers, i think this one part of the project will go on the back burner,

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        • #5
          Had about three different places trying to get mine in on the '51 CH and finally took it to Townsend Glass Co. in Westfield, Indiana, and they were able to do it. I think it was the same place Jim Turner took his '52 as he told me about the place.

          Don't know where you are but if you want the address and phone number, let me know.

          Ted

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          • #6
            plain old white GO-JO or M-30 hand cleaner works great for installing rubber componets from windshield trim to sway bar bushings and it wipes/washes off clean and won't degrade the base product.

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            • #7
              I am in the process of installing the trim in the windshield rubber on a 51 Champion and have found it to be impossible. I have tried soap with no sucess. That is what brought me here. I do not like what I am reading. I have worked on many cars and usually find the solution to a difficult situation, but this one really has me stumped.
              The car I am working on is for a customer, so I really need to get it installed. I plan to try to trim the part of the moulding that goes in the rubber. I think if I take about 1/8th inch off it might fit. I will probably leave the corners untrimmed. Has anyone tried this? I will check back before I do this just in case it is a very bad idea. Otherwise I will post my experience - good or bad.

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              • #8
                As a followup to my last post: I have wasted just over 6 hours trying to get the trim installed. I do not know how someone has ever done it. I was told to trim a little off the lip that goes in the rubber and it should work. I did that, and no, it does not work. I was able to get it started in, but it would pop right back out as I continued. I even cleaned up all the soap so it would not be as slippery and it would still pop right back out.
                For everyone's information I will tell you - Do not waste your time trying to install the trim. All you will do is possibly damage the trim or something else and get very frustrated. I wish someone had been this specific before I started the job. It would have saved me a lot of time.

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                • #9
                  I need to dig this topic back up.
                  Armed with this knowledge (thank you forum) ahead of time I was prepared for a fight to get this trim on. I knew it would be tough and had not even popped a beer in order to give it my best shot.

                  Two hours I tried. I got absolutely nowhere. Although I did manage to scratch a $5000 paint job.

                  I feel like I am pretty competent, I narrowed my own frame and can fab sheet metal. I can't install this trim. It will not go no matter what you pre-lube or how much patience you have. I can envision no special tool that would help. I am just glad I have not crasked my new windsheild.

                  The ONLY other option I can think of, (short of leaving it off), it to totally trim away the curled under lip on the trim. With a dremel wheel this would take more than an hour, then some filing and sanding to clean it up. Then just glue the darn thing onto the rubber using a modern trim glue.



                  This destroys the trim , but its my trim and its no good to me the way it is anyway. Any suggestions?


                  Dan
                  52 hardtop

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                  • #10
                    My '51 shop manual says to use a piece of twine in the reveal channel to aid in the installation of said piece after the glass is installed. This is for the rear window, and a local glass shop used this procedure on a '52 Commander a friend of mine has.(after they unsuccessfully tried a couple other methods first)
                    The only windows I've installed had no moulding, and the manual does not give specific details, except to say that it is installed after the window is in place.









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