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Need motor ideas for a 52 landcruiser

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  • Need motor ideas for a 52 landcruiser

    hey guys
    i just picked up a 52 landcruiser
    with a blow 232, that isnt in good shape to rebuild
    what would be the best way togo?
    what motors will bolt up to my trans?
    i found a 289 motor in the scrap yard for a sliver hawk
    but that would also need a rebuild
    i just want something that works
    will a 327 bolt up to my trans?
    thanks for the help

  • #2
    A later 289 or even a 259 would make a relatively easy swap and provide more performance. If you have a standard transmission a 327 could be used with an adapter from an aftermarket source. There is enough room for lots of engines, but the farther from stock you get the more difficult it will become. There are lots of guys on the forum who have been through this kind of thing and can give good advice.


    1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
    "I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    • #3
      its an automatic

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      • #4
        Adapting a Brand X V8 to the old Studebaker Automatic Drive would be a tricky proposition. This would be either a DG 150 or DG 200 transmission.

        Assuming you want to use an automatic transmission, the simplest solution would be a 259 or 289 bolted up to a '56 or '57 Flightomatic. That combination should just about bolt in. Not sure if the length of the short front half of the 2-piece driveshaft will have to be changed, but that ought to be about the only piece of custom fabrication required. The rest could be accomplished by creative use of stock Stude parts.

        Second simplest: 259 or 289 coupled to a later Flightomatic, and convert to a one-piece drive shaft. Actually, it's a toss-up as to which job is easier.

        Third: use a Brand X engine, and the automatic tranny that goes with it. Definitely more work, because things like motor mounts, transmission mounts, throttle linkage, drive shaft, cooling hoses, and wiring will all have to be custom-fabricated.

        You also could get an adaptor kit, and install a GM overdrive automatic transmission behind a Stude V8 engine.

        Ask around your local SDC chapter. Might not be too hard to find a rusted-out Lark parts car with a good running 259 and Flightomatic in it.

        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
        Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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        • #5
          So will a 289 or 259 bolt up to my trans that's in the car?

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          • #6
            Yes, but you'd probably have to switch the transmission later. The 232 was rated at 125 hp the 259 at 180, the DG 150 0r 200 may not take the torque. However, a 259 and it's transmission, DG 250 in '55, not sure when they were changed, would be fine. And it probably would be a bolt in. I wouldn't expect any drive shaft problems, either.

            I'm running an unrebuilt DG 250 behind a 4bbl 289 and it seems to be holding up well.

            [img=left]http://www.alink.com/personal/tbredehoft/Avatar1.jpg[/img=left]
            Tom Bredehoft
            '53 Commander Coupe (since 1959)
            '55 President (6H Y6) State Sedan
            (Under Construction 617 hrs.)
            '05 Legacy Ltd Wagon
            All Indiana built cars

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            • #7
              The DG150 and 200 were already pretty well overbuilt; might be a non-issue.
              Brad Johnson,
              SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
              Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
              '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
              '56 Sky Hawk in process

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              • #8
                would a packard v-8 swap work???

                2006,f-150,2x4,v-6,5-speed manual,8ft bed, will post stude info when i get it on the road.

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                • #9
                  What would be so bad about locating another 232? Just bolt it in and you're good to go.

                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
                  SDC member since 1975
                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  SDC member since 1975

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                  • #10
                    Before you write the Stude engines off as too expensive to rebuild, check my prices on engine parts. I have o.s. bearings, rings, valves, cranks, rods, etc. far cheaper than you will find anywhere, and occasionally I put 'em up on ebay for even greater savings.

                    Barry'd in Studes

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                    • #11
                      so far the only motor i have found in my area is a 289, so if im going to rebuild a motor
                      i might aswell get a bit bigger one

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                      • #12
                        quote:Originally posted by 52landcruiser

                        so far the only motor i have found in my area is a 289, so if im going to rebuild a motor
                        i might aswell get a bit bigger one
                        I have not done much in the way of engine swapping myself, but I think just about any Studebaker V8 should be pretty much a "bolt in" job. Just remember to "dial-in" the bell housing according to the manual. My recommendation would be to upgrade the timing cover to the neoprene seal while you are at it. Perhaps others have some better info on upgrading the car to a later V8. Unless you are planning on "Kicking it around" I don't think a lot of drive line modifications would be necessary.

                        John Clary
                        Greer, SC

                        Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
                        SDC member since 1975
                        John Clary
                        Greer, SC

                        SDC member since 1975

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                        • #13
                          I bet you haven't considered what gear ratio you have in the rearend. No matter what motor you run, you're going to want overdrive. Put something in it with fuel injection and overdrive. Like maybe a Chevy 4.3 with a 700. Or maybe a 60 degree V-6 for some really light weight. Then you won't need power steering. But you still might want a higher geared rearend. If you do keep the studebaker trans, maybe put an explorer rearend with at least 2:73's. Slower off the line but at least it won't scream at you on the freeway and it'll get tons better mileage. I'm pretty sure some fords came with about a 2:73 plus overdrive, which would make it like a 2:00.

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                          • #14
                            2:73 sounds awfully high for a Land Cruiser with overdrive,but with an automatic the stock ratio is probably something like 4:10 and it is a bit low for today's highway speeds.


                            1952 Champion Starlight, 1962 Daytona, both w/overdrive.Searcy,Arkansas
                            "I may be lazy, but I'm not shiftless."
                            "In the heart of Arkansas."
                            Searcy, Arkansas
                            1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                            1952 2R pickup

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I had a 79 TransAm that came with 2:29's. And that was with a 400T with the 2:50 first gear. It would still smoke the tires. I took a 2:50 carrier from a 77 LTD and put it into a 71 Ford half ton with 302/C4 and that one would still squeel the tire and it felt like it could even be higher on the freeway. I'm building a 61 ranchero with a 5.0 injected / AOD and I'm looking to go with at least a 2:73, but I might try a 2:50. The injected engine will probably make more dependable low end torque than a carbed motor, plus figure the AOD has a 3:07 first, so a 2:50 would be like a standard three speed auto with it's 2:50 first gear coupled with a 3:07 rearend. Heck, I remember the mid sixties impalas with their 1:80 first gear powerglides running 3:08's. I wouldn't run as high a rear gear with a carbed motor.

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