PDA

View Full Version : problems after new exhaust



64V19816
08-20-2006, 12:50 PM
I've just had a complete new single quiet exhaust installed on my 64 Cruiser. The car had started previously on just a slight nudge from the starter. NOW, it starts and dies immediatly. Sometimes two or three times, seems worse when it is hot. Finally it will start and then runs fine. I also installed a new air cleaner. The engine revs seem to drop and it seem strained when I put the aircleaner back on after having it off for a little. Any ideas?

mapman
08-20-2006, 01:02 PM
I once had a 64 cruiser that sucked a piece of the hood insulation into the snorkle causing a similar problem. It got terrible milage too.
Rob

blackhawk
08-20-2006, 01:17 PM
Considering what was done to it, it seems most likely that either the exhaust or air intake has been restricted somehow. Check to make sure that the manifold heat riser valve was not installed upside down. Dale

64V19816
08-20-2006, 01:26 PM
In what position should the heat riser be when correct?

N8N
08-20-2006, 03:36 PM
When cold, the weight should be pointing up; when hot it should fall down to about horizontal.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

rockne10
08-20-2006, 04:30 PM
Sometimes the heat riser valve is properly installed but new pipe and manifold gaskets are slightly askew, preventing the valve from moving freely.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg
previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

64V19816
08-20-2006, 06:13 PM
After a good look and feel down there, the heat riser is positioned this way. The weight is to the bottom, and can swing between the 4 oclock position and the 8 oclock position. The little arm on the upper part of the casting points to the 10 oclock up position. NOW, it is also missing the pin, or stud, so the spring has nothing to latch onto. It is sitting down relaxed with its hook like a backwards C at the 6 oclock position. I can probably drill into this and replace the link pin. BUT, as I see this, there would be no room for the riser to be inverted from this position as the weight would certainly hit the exhaust manifold. So, is it right as it is? Any tips on replacing that stud? My dremel is a bit too long to get down there.

curt
08-20-2006, 06:45 PM
I cut my heat riser out, just need to warm a bit in cold weather or she stalls on take off.I know of one case where a fellow had a defective New air cleaner, darn thing would not let much air through.

keeffer
08-20-2006, 07:14 PM
having done exhaust system for 20 years it sounds like your new muffler
has to much back pressure put your hand over the tail pipe and see if the engine dies if so its the muffler

keith kirchhoff
brockport ny 14420

64V19816
08-20-2006, 08:55 PM
well this is a new welded in system and I think blocking up the exhaust will stall out any motor. This system came from an ebay vendor in florida who makes exhausts and it all worked pretty well but one pipe. The muffler is quite long and I think it is original equipment spec and size. A funny other thing is happening though...maybe its just my imagination but there seems to be very little blue smoke anymore...while I did see it quite a bit with the old holey blown out patched up bandaided chicken wired 30 year old system that was on it. Does a proper exhaust reduce blowby and oil burning in a stude engine?

N8N
08-20-2006, 09:03 PM
I think you're going to have to pull the heat riser and deal with it on the bench. shouldn't be too difficult, unless you went with a single exhaust in which case you'll probably need to drop both sides. all you'll need is three exhaust gaskets and maybe some brass nuts to replace the ones that are on there if one strips (they're usually good for a couple R&Rs as long as the studs don't get too rusty.)

When you say that the weight would hit the msnifold, that worries me... makes it sound like it's installed upside down. the weight should be on the outside of the manifold, and it doesn't hit when installed correctly. If it's upside down so the weight is on the inside, that will cause an issue as the pressure of the exhaust will tend to close the valve instead of open it. But since I'd say you'll have to remove it anyway, you've got the opportunity to make it right.

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

64V19816
08-20-2006, 09:25 PM
Yes the weight would be toward the bottom of the rotation point, and pointing down along the line of exhaust flow. Do you mean it should be "weight toward the top", and closer to the exhaust manifold?

Dwain G.
08-21-2006, 12:10 AM
The top gasket surface of the heat riser may even be stamped 'top'.
Here's a picture of what Nate described:
http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/heatriser.jpg
Nate, I still say you would have made a helluva good VW tech.

http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/9GQ2.jpg
Dwain G.