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wolfie
07-13-2009, 01:17 PM
Are the spokes in Avanti wire wheels stainless? I am having a set powder coated next week and have to strip them. The guy doing the powder can send them out but they sandblast them which I was warned against here on the forum. I have decided to use a muratic acid solution to strip the existing chrome myself as a less abrasive (and cheaper) method. I looked online and saw several posts that said the acid will tarnish stainless but I figure the powder should cover that discoloration up anyway,if they are even stainless. Is there any other reason I should not use muratic acid on them?
Question 2) Am I correct that loosening the nut from the reverse side of the wheel will allow the center caps to be removed or is it harder (or simpler) than that? I was scared to try before I asked someone in the know.
Thanks,Steve

studegary
07-13-2009, 01:33 PM
Please clarify. No Studebaker Avantis came with wire wheels. Are you referring to wire wheel covers, original wire wheels on a non-Studebaker Avanti or something else?
The wire wheels that I remember on post-Studebaker Avantis were, I believe, chrome plated steel.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

sweetolbob
07-13-2009, 01:35 PM
Can't help you with the Muratic acid (HCL) question, but if you use it. Soak the living He!! out of the acid treated parts in a solution of baking soda and water. That will neutralize the acid which will continue to corrode the metal in places you could not rinse.

Bob

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/P1000416.jpg?t=1227109182

wolfie
07-13-2009, 02:15 PM
quote:Originally posted by studegary

Please clarify. No Studebaker Avantis came with wire wheels. Are you referring to wire wheel covers, original wire wheels on a non-Studebaker Avanti or something else?
The wire wheels that I remember on post-Studebaker Avantis were, I believe, chrome plated steel.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer



Sorry,Avanti II wires,I believe they are Daytons but do not know. Steve

wolfie
07-13-2009, 02:21 PM
quote:Originally posted by sweetolbob

Can't help you with the Muratic acid (HCL) question, but if you use it. Soak the living He!! out of the acid treated parts in a solution of baking soda and water. That will neutralize the acid which will continue to corrode the metal in places you could not rinse.

Bob

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh263/sweetolbob/P1000416.jpg?t=1227109182



Thanks,I usually use water followed by MEK as a rinse after muratic acid but have never done anything this intricately designed or anything chromed. I would guess a washtub full of water/baking soda would be a money saver.I am starting with the worst wheel I have but would hate to damage any of them.

wolfie
07-13-2009, 02:37 PM
Also,How much baking soda per gal of water for that rinse? We are starting a wheel in a few minutes. Thanks,Steve

studeken
07-13-2009, 02:59 PM
The wire wheels used on Avanti ll's in the '70s were made by Borrani and were knockoff splined hub.The splined hub itself just bolted to the drum or disc with the stock lug nuts. They were gorgeous, made any Avanti look like a million bucks, and were quite heavy. I installed probably a dozen sets while I worked on he Avanti line '73-'75. Still doesn't answer your question, I know. KP

Ken Pyle

rockinhawk
07-13-2009, 03:30 PM
BE CAREFUL with that acid!!! It can de-temper some metals such as spring steel I tried to clean some springs once and it left them useless. NT


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j209/mbstude/avatar2.jpg

Aussie Hawk
07-13-2009, 03:47 PM
Keep Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic) away from stainless, the chlorides will attack the stainless, and you'll end up with corrosion pits, I'd use phosphoric acid. With regards to neautralising the acid after the clean and passivating the metal, so long as you use some sort of alkalai and bring the passivation solution pH up to above 10, but monitor it with pH strips or litmus paper, as the acid will bring it down with each wheel. Have you tried a molassis solution for cleaning rust off? It's very good but you have to keep an eye on it or you'll dissolve the parts away[:0]

Matt
Brisbane
Australia

studegary
07-13-2009, 03:51 PM
I would try to contact the wheel manufacturer, or their representative, and get their opinion/input.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

wolfie
07-13-2009, 04:30 PM
quote:Originally posted by Aussie Hawk

Keep Hydrochloric acid (Muriatic) away from stainless, the chlorides will attack the stainless, and you'll end up with corrosion pits, I'd use phosphoric acid. With regards to neautralising the acid after the clean and passivating the metal, so long as you use some sort of alkalai and bring the passivation solution pH up to above 10, but monitor it with pH strips or litmus paper, as the acid will bring it down with each wheel. Have you tried a molassis solution for cleaning rust off? It's very good but you have to keep an eye on it or you'll dissolve the parts away[:0]

Matt
Brisbane
Australia


OOPS! I had already started before I read your response. Hopefully they are not stainless, I should know momentarily. Unfortunately 3 of these are beyond any cleanup. Steve

Swifster
07-13-2009, 04:34 PM
Dayton offeres a wheel refurbishing service. Call Dayton before you go any further.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/01-01-05TheStartingPoint.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/07-17-07FrontClipRemoved.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/08-06-29.jpg

wolfie
07-13-2009, 05:06 PM
These are pics of one of the wheels.

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/wolfie_53/DSCF5943.jpg

http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll160/wolfie_53/DSCF5941.jpg

wolfie
07-13-2009, 06:08 PM
Well,That didnt work. The acid is attacking the center part of the rear of the wheel too hard. Its like a spacer that is actually a part of the wheel. The acid turned it black and seemed to be deteriating it pretty quickly. I tried to find a number for Dayton but suspect that service is out of our budget. I am officially stuck now. Others have said not to use an abrasive blaster on them but I see no other budgetable alternative available to me. Dry ice blasting was reccommended but I cant find anyone near me with the equipment. Steve

Thomas63R2
07-13-2009, 10:46 PM
I would recommend against powder coating the wheels as whole assemblies. The wheels can actually flex just a little where there are connections between the different parts - which I think could flake some of the powdercoat. Your wheels apear to have chrome over steel spokes. If I saw a set of previouly chrome wire wheels and spokes that had been powder coated whole, I would pressume they were junk.

Restoring wire wheels is not easy or cheap. Whether you rechrome or powdercoat the proper way is to disassmble the wheels first. Lacing up wheels is no fun - time consuming or expensive depending on if you do it or pay to have it done.

Thomas

Long time hot rodder
Packrat junk collector
'63 Avanti R2 4 speed

Swifster
07-13-2009, 11:47 PM
Those wheels will not be cheap to replace. Have them redone professionally. It's less than the cost of the wheels.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tom - Mulberry, FL

1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2125.60)

1964 Studebaker Commander 170-1V, 3-speed w/OD (Cost to Date: $623.67)

http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/01-01-05TheStartingPoint.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/07-17-07FrontClipRemoved.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i280/Swifster/The%20Daytona%20File/Avatar%20Size/08-06-29.jpg

MikeValent
07-14-2009, 08:50 PM
Steve, what is the year of you A-II? I have an 83 and my wheels aren't like the Borrani's he described, but they do look like yours. Maybe they changed suppliers in the late 70's?

MikeV
Pompano Beach, FL
83 Avanti 377I

wolfie
07-15-2009, 10:16 AM
quote:Originally posted by MikeValent

Steve, what is the year of you A-II? I have an 83 and my wheels aren't like the Borrani's he described, but they do look like yours. Maybe they changed suppliers in the late 70's?

MikeV
Pompano Beach, FL
83 Avanti 377I



I dont know,They were an E-bay purchase we are going to put on the lark. I think they are Daytons,not Boranni. Thanks,Steve

rockinhawk
07-15-2009, 03:58 PM
They look like the set that came on my 81. I got tired of trying to keep air in them so I put a set of Chrysler 5th Ave. wheels and Avanti covers on it. I gave the wires to a friend who later tried to give them back. I don't know what ever happened to them. They may be the same ones. NT P.S. I think they are Daytons.


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j209/mbstude/avatar2.jpg

Green53
07-16-2009, 05:16 PM
I run Borrani's on my car but they are the knock off type. Your's are Dayton's. It was about $500 a wheel to restore them last I knew. They have a guy that handles restorations. I talk to him every year at SEMA. I think Coker tire sells new ones.
Denny L

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff85/Daytona64/53Stude2015.jpg

wolfie
07-16-2009, 06:11 PM
quote:Originally posted by Green53

I run Borrani's on my car but they are the knock off type. Your's are Dayton's. It was about $500 a wheel to restore them last I knew. They have a guy that handles restorations. I talk to him every year at SEMA. I think Coker tire sells new ones.
Denny L

http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff85/Daytona64/53Stude2015.jpg


Thanks,I had kind of cooled off on this project after buying the truck but I need to get back to it quickly now. I can have the set of 4 done in powdercoat for $300 plus whatever the guy charges for stripping them. I know, Iknow, The cheap solution will bite you every time but as I am donating this to try getting Tracy started again on the lark thats really more than I can budget. And I think they will look good in the powdercoat,not as good as new chrome but much better than they are now. The wheel in the pic is the best one,all the others are really bad after I looked harder.A good pressure wash will take a good bit of the chrome off them. Steve

wolfie
07-16-2009, 06:24 PM
quote:Originally posted by rockinhawk

They look like the set that came on my 81. I got tired of trying to keep air in them so I put a set of Chrysler 5th Ave. wheels and Avanti covers on it. I gave the wires to a friend who later tried to give them back. I don't know what ever happened to them. They may be the same ones. NT P.S. I think they are Daytons.


Neil Thornton
Hazlehurst, GA
'57 Silver Hawk
'56 Sky Hawk
'51 2R16 dump truck
Many others.
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j209/mbstude/avatar2.jpg



Hi Neal! Havent seen you in too long now. This may be them,they came from Fla to me. Someone has sealed the inside of several wheels with something so apparantly they have had a problem. I love the look of wires but hate everything else about them. Dad once said a man would die of old age before he could clean a set of wire wheels and if he did ever get them clean they would punch a hole in the tire before you could show anybody. But man they do look purdy and make the little lark stand proud. Steve

Oh, And I am pretty sure they are Daytons, Does loosening that center bolt take the Avanti cap part off? It looks like it but I havent tried as I am soaking them in penetrating oil. The one wheel I messed with didnt have one. Steve