what is the redline for stude v-8's in stock form non r-series? and whats the redline for the r-series engines? will these engines live at 6000-6500 rpm? and has anyone tried the hyd. lifter conversion? is it worth it? how is the cam choises for hyd?
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Both Std. with good R1 valve springs and R1 like about 5500 RPM and reach Max H.P. there. The R2& R3, will go about another 500 to 800.
Ted Harbit has never had to rev his engines more than that to beat every big Block out there, so there is no need.
Hydraulic Lifters and Cam are available from one source with few sold, and I see no gain at all with them unless you really want quiet! Just a big waste of money in my opinion.
When you already have the best; a gear Drive and solid lifters, why would you want to change that? [xx(]
StudeRichStudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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hotrodstude..
You're very welcome to join us at http://racingstudebakers.com/stl-web...n/bb/index.php for hours upon hours of high performance Studebakering.
Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com
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I drive my stock R1 powered 54 Coupe regularly. It seems to love revving into the 4500 - 5000 rpm range and does so effortlessly. It'll cruise at 3000 on the freeway with the only complaint being that the car is a bit noisy in the first place, which is why I'm moving to a T85 with OD. I considered the T5 swap, but the T85 is a drop in affair. I used to run a high compression, and larger valved 259 which revved to 6000 quite easily, and was very fun to drive. I pounded that car for years and it always ran great. It also had the T85. Also, echoing what StudeRich said.... why would you want to move to inferior hydraulic lifters??? Build your engine with at least 9:1 compression, as large an intake valve you can fit comfortably, which should be around a 1.88, a 1.5 exhaust valve, an R1/R2 cam and top it off with a 500 or 550 cfm 4 bbl carb and you'll have a blast of a car to drive. Good luck and have fun.
sals54
sals54
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All Stude V8 rocker arms are the same 1.5 nominal ratio. Whether using hydraulic or solid lifters,quote:the advantage in selecting a wider range of cam profiles
Another FWIW, most Stude OEM tachs are not a reliable witness of actual RPM. They were old technology when new and fifty years later are dirty, need lubrication, contacts cleaned and calibration. Best way is to have a new tach installed behind the old face and calibrated by a shop.
Contemporary magazine articles and personal experience says most '56-64 standard 289" engines, especially the supercharged GH/Packard versions, start to show symptoms of valve float above 4500. The standard cam doesn't make any horsepower above 5,000 anyway.
My experience is the R1 cam and valve springs will usually go to 5500 reliably on a normally aspirated engine, if everything is fresh. Adding larger diameter heavier R3 intake valves, will require greater valve spring pressure to achieve the same RPM. Same with adding supercharger boost pressure. Since the supercharger belts begin to slip at higher RPMs anyway, heavier valve springs only earn their money if much work is done to hold boost in the 5,000+RPM range.
thnx, jack vines
PackardV8PackardV8
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Originally posted by wise raymond View PostAfter reading this post it looks like I can run my Avanti R2 up to 5500 RPM maybe 6000 ..but for how long thank you very much Raymond.Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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So what mite be the maximum RPM. That my R2 . 40. Thousands over . with standard heads spring s could achieve before the valves begin to float thank you....I think I can answer my own question..5500.. RPM..Last edited by wise raymond; 01-02-2020, 06:55 PM.rawise
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FWIW, the Studebaker valve springs are 1930s technology and start losing control even before they float. These days, for most of our V8 builds, we're using either the beehive LS or the original Z28 valve springs. They maintain full control up to valve float.
These are even more important when the "R2+" regrind is used.
jack vinesPackardV8
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HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)
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Originally posted by wise raymond View PostWould the R3 valves spring do the job or are Z28 valves spring better..thank you Raymond.
Here's one spec for original R3 springs - R3/R4 seat outer 90+/-10, inner 35+/-5, 125# seat pressure. I've seen other supposedly original R3/R4 engines with spring packages which look nothing like these.
Bottom line - unless one is racing, a single spring with 80-90# seat pressure is more than enough.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Thank you Deepnhock but it comes up as private. Meaning I cannot view it.. but I Sean John Halls..200 miles an hour video on YouTube an the sounds osame .... Packard V8.. would any body know if any of the study parts guy s have anything that mite have beater springs than my old spring s.rawise
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Originally posted by wise raymond View PostThank you Deepnhock but it comes up as private. Meaning I cannot view it.. but I Sean John Halls..200 miles an hour video on YouTube an the sounds osame .... Packard V8.. would any body know if any of the study parts guy s have anything that mite have beater springs than my old spring s.HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)
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