63 R2 Lark w/289 and 4 speed

[58PackardWagon]

Pulled the motor and transmission today. Separated the engine from the transmission. Need to know how to remove the entire clutch assembly so that I can put the engine on an engine stand. Looks like the clutch and springs are brand new, so if at all possibly I would like to remove this assembly as much in tact or as one piece. This is a 4 speed on a 289. Please advise. Thank y

[gordr]

quote:Originally posted by 58PackardWagon

Pulled the motor and transmission today. Separated the engine from the transmission. Need to know how to remove the entire clutch assembly so that I can put the engine on an engine stand. Looks like the clutch and springs are brand new, so if at all possibly I would like to remove this assembly as much in tact or as one piece. This is a 4 speed on a 289. Please advise. Thank y

It can't come off in one piece. Just slack off the six capscrews that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. Go around the pressure plate, slacking off each screw about 1 turn at a time, so as to evenly release the pressure on the disc. When the disc becomes free, you'll know it, and can then remove all six capscrews completely, and set the pressure plate and disc aside. Watch out, they are surprisingly heavy!

Once the clutch is set aside, you can undo the six nuts holding the flywheel to the crank. Also here, it's a good idea to slack the nuts off sequentially in small increments until they spin free. Once all the nuts are off, rock the flywheel a bit, and it should pull free. Don't be having your fingers under it when it comes free!

The flywheel bolts cannot be removed from the crank flange until the pan and rear main bearing cap are removed. And likewise, the crank flange bolts must be inserted in the crank BEFORE one installs the rear main bearing cap and oil pan. That's got to be one of the classic errors made by greenhorn Stude engine builders.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[gordr]

quote:Originally posted by 58PackardWagon

Pulled the motor and transmission today. Separated the engine from the transmission. Need to know how to remove the entire clutch assembly so that I can put the engine on an engine stand. Looks like the clutch and springs are brand new, so if at all possibly I would like to remove this assembly as much in tact or as one piece. This is a 4 speed on a 289. Please advise. Thank y

It can't come off in one piece. Just slack off the six capscrews that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel. Go around the pressure plate, slacking off each screw about 1 turn at a time, so as to evenly release the pressure on the disc. When the disc becomes free, you'll know it, and can then remove all six capscrews completely, and set the pressure plate and disc aside. Watch out, they are surprisingly heavy!

Once the clutch is set aside, you can undo the six nuts holding the flywheel to the crank. Also here, it's a good idea to slack the nuts off sequentially in small increments until they spin free. Once all the nuts are off, rock the flywheel a bit, and it should pull free. Don't be having your fingers under it when it comes free!

The flywheel bolts cannot be removed from the crank flange until the pan and rear main bearing cap are removed. And likewise, the crank flange bolts must be inserted in the crank BEFORE one installs the rear main bearing cap and oil pan. That's got to be one of the classic errors made by greenhorn Stude engine builders.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[bams50]

Question re: "Dialing in" the bellhousing- does this have to be done if you reassemble with the same bellhousing on the same block?

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[bams50]

Question re: "Dialing in" the bellhousing- does this have to be done if you reassemble with the same bellhousing on the same block?

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[N8N]

If you didn't have any issues with clutch misalignment, no - but it is not a bad idea to check anyway

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[N8N]

If you didn't have any issues with clutch misalignment, no - but it is not a bad idea to check anyway

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[bams50]

Good to know...

For some reason, I just can't seem to get my mind around the procedure for this; so I've just been trying to plan on avoiding it [:I]

It's inevitable that I'll have to do it sometime; guess I'll do a search and try to revisit it then...[xx(]

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[bams50]

Good to know...

For some reason, I just can't seem to get my mind around the procedure for this; so I've just been trying to plan on avoiding it [:I]

It's inevitable that I'll have to do it sometime; guess I'll do a search and try to revisit it then...[xx(]

Robert K. Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[tstclr]

I hear ya BAMS! I'm going to have to do it when I hook the T10 to my 259 (or hopefully 289 if I find one). I think I remember seeing a link or website with photos on how to do this. Anyone?
Did they have to do this on the assembly line or was there a special jig that did this?
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

[tstclr]

I hear ya BAMS! I'm going to have to do it when I hook the T10 to my 259 (or hopefully 289 if I find one). I think I remember seeing a link or website with photos on how to do this. Anyone?
Did they have to do this on the assembly line or was there a special jig that did this?
Todd


63 Lark 2dr Sedan
64 Daytona 4dr Sedan

[Guido]

I believe that Gary Ash did a piece on this a while back. You may want to check on his website (www.studegarage.com) and see.



Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

[Guido]

I believe that Gary Ash did a piece on this a while back. You may want to check on his website (www.studegarage.com) and see.



Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

[StudeRich]

Well they certainly did not do it on the CAR assembly line, it would have been done on the ENGINE Assembly line. I was not there to see that, it must have been interesting to see alright! They would have had a tool to mount the Dial Indicator, nowdays we have Magnetic mount bases. [^]

quote:Originally posted by tstclr


Did they have to do this on the assembly line or was there a special jig that did this? Todd

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[StudeRich]

Well they certainly did not do it on the CAR assembly line, it would have been done on the ENGINE Assembly line. I was not there to see that, it must have been interesting to see alright! They would have had a tool to mount the Dial Indicator, nowdays we have Magnetic mount bases. [^]

quote:Originally posted by tstclr


Did they have to do this on the assembly line or was there a special jig that did this? Todd

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA