I finally got my 1962 GT Hawk! (pictures to follow). The engine number is P88104 stamped on the block. There is no oil filter. Was this normal for cars shipped to Texas? Any suggestions?
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Peter Bishop -
Peter: Before Engine #P90916, an oil filter was optional at extra cost. It really had nothing to do with where the car was to be sent, it only had to do with whether the dealer or purchaser ordered an optional oil filter.
Beginning with Engine #P90916, an oil filter was standard equipment.
BP
We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge. 
G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it. -
Bob...
I'd like to talk to you more about this car. The previous owner worked with you on bubbles (air) in the power steering system. One of the first things I noticed about the power steering system was a loose belt due to one of the lock down bolts being stripped. I fixed that and will now go on to the bubbles. Could you repeat you analysis of the bubbles problem.Peter BishopComment
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Peter: This has been prepared for The Co-Operator and will appear sooner or later as soon when Ann needs a Q&A of this particular length to fill out a given issue of Turning Wheels. Meanwhile, here 'tis:
From: jrousell@twcny.rr.com
To: bobcaripalma@hotmail.com
Subject: Studebaker Hawk
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 09:07:29 -0900
Dear Bob
This concerns the power steering on my 62 hawk, when cold the steering is very sluggish and jerky, after warmup it becomes easier to steer but still somewhat jerky, on checking the fluid it is very foamy, the fluid level showed full at start up, hope you can help. Thanks. John #AOO5650R
Hi, John;
The fluid is being aerated somehow; getting air bubbles into it that are causing your problem.
Take off the hose connections at the lowest point in the system and allow all the old fluid to drain out. Let it drain overnight. Leave the hose connections disconnected and still draining into appropriate reservoirs.
Use only Dexron/Mercon III automatic transmission fluid or equivalent. If you had something else in there, that may have contributed to the problem.
Pour fresh fluid into the reservoir and allow it to drain through the system and on out the disconnected hoses below. When it is draining clear with no bubbles, connect one hose. Continue pouring until it is coming out clear and steady from the other hose. Connect the other hose.
At this point, much of the air should have been removed. Fill the reservoir and give it time to allow any bubbles to come up. I'd actually let it sit overnight with the cover off the reservoir, to encourage as many stray bubbles as possible to work there way up and out of the fluid.
Start the engine and slowly turn the wheel all the way from the right to left, or vise-versa, and back again. Top off the reservoir and repeat.
At this point in time, your system should have a fairly solid column of fluid throughout. Drive the car a couple days and recheck.
If it gets hard to steer or bubbles reappear in the fluid, there is a seal leak somewhere in the system that is permitting air to enter; not good. See if there are any appreciable leaks around either the pump or the slave cylinder down below. If one of them is leaking, overhaul it and repeat the fill/bleed procedure.
If the system again acts up and gets air in it, you'll have to rebuild the second component as well. BP
We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.
G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.Comment
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