Interior: Dim dash lights on 1950 Champion

[Jimmie]

I have my speedometer/gauge panel apart. I have always felt that the dash lights which illuminate the various gauges and the speedometer numbers were too dim. What I see inside the panel where the light bulbs plug in appears to be very dark plastic. I suppose that there was some good reason for this and maybe just cleaning the dark plastic will allow plenty of light to pass through to illuminate the numbers etc. However, thinking back to the early 60's about how my flashlight would illuminate the numbers and cause them to continue to glow for awhile I am wondering if they worked better originally because the substance on them absorbed what little light they received making a neat glow in the panel rather than simply having the numbers illuminated.

I just now held the face plate up to my desk light and then turned it off and the glowing occurred for a short time, but it was dim.

I am wondering if the same or another "safer" substance may be available or is there another alternative to insure that the gauges are bright enough to see after dark?

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Jimmie
Orleans, Indiana


1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

[Lark Hunter]

I believe your gauge numbers were painted with a luminescent paint, kind of like a wind up alarm clock or a watch face. When they were new, the numerals would respond to the slightest amount of UV radiation (read: the very dark black light filters that the dash bulbs were plunked into.) This paint degrades badly over time, and after 10 or 20 years, doesn't respond much to light stimulation. I have had some degree of success with different kinds of luminescent paint found at craft stores for use on blacklight posters and such, but am not sure of their durability for repainting gauge faces.

LH

[Carl Purdy]

I took my black glass out and painted the bulbs with blue finger nail polish.


7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2

[gordr]

The filters should be purple glass, not plastic, if I remember right. And the luminous paint that comprises the numerals does indeed degrade over time. The only "proper" fix would be to have the instrument faces re-silkscreened with luminous paint, but I know of no one who does that.

And, for the record, the luminous paint used contains no radium, and probably is not hazardous. If it contained radium, the numerals would glow without the need for black light illumination provided by the filtered bulbs. The speedometer on my Weasel has real radium paint on the numerals up to 30 MPH, and you can go out at night and seem them glimming away faintly.

You used to be able to get sticky-backed sheets of phosphorescent material at toy stores. This is the stuff that "charges up" under exposure to bright light, and then glows for spell when the lights are out out. You might try obtaining a sheet, and see if it responds to the UV illumination from one of the filtered bulbs. I expect it would; in which case you might be able to cut numerals from it and stick them on the instrument faces. You could run the existing instrument face through a flat-bed scanner to copy the font, and then print it onto thin paper or adhesive film to stick on the top side of the luminous sheet to use as a template for cutting with an Exacto knife. Could run to many hours of close work! Perhaps someone here has graphic arts expertise, and could give us some wisdom.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[chrysleritis]

I recently had the speedo out and a couple other gauges. (temp and fuel) I couldn't see how to get the "purple" glass filters out neatly, but what I did do was to clean the gauge faces gently with a bit of 409 and scuff the numerals a bit with a plastic scrubby. Then I repainted over the digits and particularly the needles with a couple coats of some of the really good, new, extra strong and long-lasting glow in the dark paints which you can order on-line. I used as good and fine a brush as I could get at the local art supply store. This treatment wouldn't impress people at a Studebaker meet, but it does really enhance the driveability at night -- you can actually read the gauges.

P.S. My temp gauge still doesn't really work, even though I replaced the gauge, and the temp sending unit in the block, and it's all new wiring, done correctly.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

quote:Originally posted by gordr

The only "proper" fix would be to have the instrument faces re-silkscreened with luminous paint, but I know of no one who does that.

Try these guys, it looks like they do great work. And they do have a stude truck panel they redone.

I just found them on line I have no exp with these guys.

http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/before_and_after.asp

[starlightchamp]

WHen I got my 50 Starlight six years ago I couldn't read the Speedometer at night,
The problem was the fluorescent numerals wee not glowing due to:
1. Age of the luminescent paint.
2. Clouding of the blue light lenses.
3. lack of light output of the 6 Volt bulbs.
My fix , and it works great, was to replace the filament bulbs with high output 6 volt Krypton bulbs.
This required modifying the base of the Krypton bulbs by silver soldering a boss to fit the receptacle. The increased brightness really lit up the dash.
...Dick

[brngarage]

Where did you get the krypton bulbs and do you have a part number for them?

Thanks

Howard
53 Commander Starliner
56 Sky Hawk

[starlightchamp]

Howard,
I got the Krypton. 6 volt, flashlight bulbs at an Ace hardware store but most stores that sell
flashlights likely have them. Problem is they don't come with a base that has the small
boss that twists into the socket. I cut a length of 1/16" diameter brass wire into pieces about 1/16"long. With needle nose pliers holding a piece, I tinned the end and soldered to the bulbs base. Took some patience but worked out fine. I had tried halogen bulbs but they
seemed too hot for this application.
... DIck Curtis

[brngarage]

Thanks Dick! I'll get some and modify them tomorrow.

Howard
53 Commander Starliner
56 Sky Hawk

[wayne]

The lumenius paint was available a couple of years ago. Because my wife repainted ours. At that time I got it at a hobby shop and is working fine .

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

quote:Originally posted by starlightchamp

Howard,
I got the Krypton. 6 volt, flashlight bulbs at an Ace hardware store but most stores that sell
flashlights likely have them. Problem is they don't come with a base that has the small
boss that twists into the socket. I cut a length of 1/16" diameter brass wire into pieces about 1/16"long. With needle nose pliers holding a piece, I tinned the end and soldered to the bulbs base. Took some patience but worked out fine. I had tried halogen bulbs but they
seemed too hot for this application.
... DIck Curtis

Hey Dick,

I found a great solution for these bulbs. I set the bulbs in the socket for the Speedo and marked the where the pins should go with a sharpie. Then with a antique hand drill drilled a tiny hole just through the bulb casing where I had marked it. and bent a small piece of wire in a "D" shape just large enough to fit around the bulb mount and into the holes in the bulb I drilled. Just push and fit into the mount and done. No hassle with the soldering of little pins into a tiny bulb. So far it works like a dream.

I am going to try it with a LED as well I'll let you know how that works too. I found a LED replacement for a maglight that is brighter and more durable than a regular bulb.

Owner of a 1950 4 door Commander

I'll Tattoo you anytime!

you can find me at

Lucky Linda's Body Art 952-445-3281
18 years in the tattooing biz

[starlightchamp]

Yea Howard! Sounds easier than my solder trick. let me know how LED works out. They are
more efficient so probably less heat. Got the radio installed and checked out yet?
On another thread, it was suggestd that the back rod radio support can be made from battery holdowns.
...Dick

[deco_droid]

Hey Dick,

I found a great solution for these bulbs. I set the bulbs in the socket for the Speedo and marked the where the pins should go with a sharpie. Then with a antique hand drill drilled a tiny hole just through the bulb casing where I had marked it. and bent a small piece of wire in a "D" shape just large enough to fit around the bulb mount and into the holes in the bulb I drilled. Just push and fit into the mount and done. No hassle with the soldering of little pins into a tiny bulb. So far it works like a dream.

I am going to try it with a LED as well I'll let you know how that works too. I found a LED replacement for a maglight that is brighter and more durable than a regular bulb.

Owner of a 1950 4 door Commander

I'll Tattoo you anytime!

you can find me at

Lucky Linda's Body Art 952-445-3281
18 years in the tattooing biz

Hey Edsel, how did your dashlights end up looking? Do you have any photos? I was about to buy standard bulbs since I have a few out on my dash, but I saw this thread and was curious how these newer bulbs worked. Thanks...

[nvonada]

The LED idea is a good one. Ultraviolet(UV) LEDs are out there and would do a great job exciting the luminencent paint. No filters required! You could test this by shining a black light on your speedo and see if the numbers glow at all. If they do then UV would probably work. The catch is most LEDs are pretty directional (only shine out the front) so the lighting might not be as even as you would like.

Nathan