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  • Apply brake, pull to the left

    Recently drove the'48 Land Cruiser and when I put on the brakes, it pulled to the left.

    I'm not very adept at brake systems, so took it to my local tire/brake shop. They said the drums and pads look good, but I'm not convinced they worked very far in depth on it (guy looked at me blankly when I started asking questions).

    I searched the forum and saw the suggestion of jacking up the vehicle and checking the 'freedom' of spin on the tires. Well, it was late, and I only checked the front left. Funny, when I turn it, it goes about 3/4 and then seems to rub or drag. It doesn't spin round and round (or is it supposed to?)

    Any thoughts?

    Robert
    1938 Commander (great-grandfathers)
    1948 Commander (great-grandmothers)

  • #2
    check the adjustment per the shop manual check both fronts. If the adjustent doesn't fix it pull the drums. you'll likely find the problem on the right side. wheel cylinder leaking fluid or wheel cylinder froze up and not apply the brakes.

    quote:Originally posted by oregonroses

    Recently drove the'48 Land Cruiser and when I put on the brakes, it pulled to the left.

    I'm not very adept at brake systems, so took it to my local tire/brake shop. They said the drums and pads look good, but I'm not convinced they worked very far in depth on it (guy looked at me blankly when I started asking questions).

    I searched the forum and saw the suggestion of jacking up the vehicle and checking the 'freedom' of spin on the tires. Well, it was late, and I only checked the front left. Funny, when I turn it, it goes about 3/4 and then seems to rub or drag. It doesn't spin round and round (or is it supposed to?)

    Any thoughts?

    Robert

    Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
    53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
    57 SH (project)
    60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

    Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
    53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
    57 SH (project)
    60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

    Comment


    • #3
      Brakes must drag a little, otherwise the brake pedal would be very low. Properly adjusted, the wheel should spin about 1 turn and you should hear a scraping noise. It's kind of a "touchy-feely" thing, but do not spin the wheel hard. Three quarters of a turn isn't bad, depending how how hard you spun it. Just an easy pull should be all that is needed. Adjust both front wheels the same way and road test it. If the car still pulls left, check the RIGHT wheel for a seized wheel cylinder, a leaking w/cyl or a bad hub grease seal. A bad rf flex line will do the same. The cause of a pull is often on the other side of the car.

      Terry

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      • #4
        check your left tie rods

        Comment


        • #5
          ###Update###
          So I pulled off the right tire, and the wheel spins round and round...no drag like the other side. I'm guessing then that the brake needs adjusting...basically the left is applying correctly but the right is out of spec. so that it isn't applying the same pressure...hence the pull to the left?

          Why wouldn't the chain tire/brake store see/diagnosis this? Might have to call them in the morning.

          In the meantime, took advantage of the tires being off to look at the steering linkage/struts/etc....man, the rubber bushings (grommets/seals...whatever they are called) are worn out! One in fact is torn in two and I believe only still on due to the grease holding it there! Aaarrgghhh! I just wanted it to stop in a straight line for the parade in two weeks!

          RR
          1938 Commander (great-grandfathers)
          1948 Commander (great-grandmothers)

          Comment


          • #6
            Welcome to old cars and trying to have someone fix them. I feel for owners that have to rely on the local auto repair facility to have them fixed. Don't lose heart, if you want to learn to do some of these repairs for yourself get involved in the local club and find one of the veterans that would be willing to help you learn. If your not interested then ask around for a small shop preferably with a crusty old owner that isn't afraid of your Studebaker.
            On the subject of your front end condition. don't sweat the torn rubber boots at this point. Your more concerned with slack or wear at any pivots on the steering. While the vehicle is jacked up and SUPPORTED BY JACK STANDS have someone move the steering back and forth just enought to put pressure on the steering. Look for any slack at any of the pivots.
            while the wheels are still mounted and the vehicle still up on jack stands, place your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions of the tire. Try to move the wheel in and out and check for slack very little or none is good.
            Worn steering components while noticeable during braking are more likely to give you a wandering feel while driving.
            The pulling you describe is more likely due to a brake problem.
            Have Fun (remember old cars are fun and if it were easy everyone would play with them
            quote:Originally posted by oregonroses

            ###Update###
            So I pulled off the right tire, and the wheel spins round and round...no drag like the other side. I'm guessing then that the brake needs adjusting...basically the left is applying correctly but the right is out of spec. so that it isn't applying the same pressure...hence the pull to the left?

            Why wouldn't the chain tire/brake store see/diagnosis this? Might have to call them in the morning.

            In the meantime, took advantage of the tires being off to look at the steering linkage/struts/etc....man, the rubber bushings (grommets/seals...whatever they are called) are worn out! One in fact is torn in two and I believe only still on due to the grease holding it there! Aaarrgghhh! I just wanted it to stop in a straight line for the parade in two weeks!

            RR

            Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
            53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
            57 SH (project)
            60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

            Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
            53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
            57 SH (project)
            60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

            Comment


            • #7
              Robert, if the brake man is a young whippersnapper, [}] and not into collector cars, I would almost be willing to bet he has never seen a car with drum brakes on the front. I would put my morning donut on the fact he has never seen the type of brake adjuster Stude used in 1948. The blank look probably meant he didn't do anything because he didn't know what he was looking at.[xx(][V] As Russ, says, the best place to find a shop that does understand things is at your local club.

              Terry

              Comment


              • #8

                quote:Originally posted by dictator27

                Robert, if the brake man is a young whippersnapper, [}] and not into collector cars, I would almost be willing to bet he has never seen a car with drum brakes on the front. I would put my morning donut on the fact he has never seen the type of brake adjuster Stude used in 1948. The blank look probably meant he didn't do anything because he didn't know what he was looking at.[xx(][V] As Russ, says, the best place to find a shop that does understand things is at your local club.



                Terry
                I agree with Terry and Russ. One clue is he told you your "pads" looked good. Your car doesn't have pads [:0]. I'd also be very surprised if they had the special tool to remove the rear drums.

                It is almost impossible today to have a vintage car maintained at a commercial repair shop. There isn't enough knowledge left in the industry for that to happen even if there was enough profit in it (which there isn't).

                Brakes are perhaps the most important subsystem on any car. If the engine quits running, it's inconvenient. If the brakes stop working, it is DEADLY.

                Get with your local club and get some help. I'm sure there are many there that can guide you through an overhaul of your brake system. Your problem could be any number of things (blocked hard lines, weak hoses, grease-brake fluid on shoes, failing wheel cylinder(s), etc. etc.). You won't know until the drums are off all 4 wheels and all parts are carefully inspected and tested.

                BTW, an adjustment is probably not going to fix your problem. With MECHANICAL brakes (like 20's and 30's Fords), adjustment was critical for even braking. With hydraulic brakes, it's not. That's one of the beauties of hydraulics. They apply evenly even if some shoes start a little further from the drum. Your brakes would have to be REALLY out of adjustment to have it pull, then it would be just for an instant until all shoes come into contact with the drum.

                Dick Steinkamp
                Bellingham, WA


                [/quote]

                Dick Steinkamp
                Bellingham, WA

                Comment


                • #9
                  quote:Originally posted by dictator27

                  Robert, if the brake man is a young whippersnapper, [}] and not into collector cars, I would almost be willing to bet he has never seen a car with drum brakes on the front. I would put my morning donut on the fact he has never seen the type of brake adjuster Stude used in 1948. The blank look probably meant he didn't do anything because he didn't know what he was looking at.[xx(][V] As Russ, says, the best place to find a shop that does understand things is at your local club.

                  Terry
                  Front drum brakes disappeared on American cars by 1976.

                  Now; for scary; I perceive 1960's vehicles as modern! [)]

                  -------------------------------------------------------------------------
                  Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

                  "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
                  --------------------------------------

                  Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment

                  Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:

                  "Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I would say if the car pulls to the left it may be because the right wheel system is either slow to operate or is sticking. Let a car sit up for months at a time the wheel cylinters will form crud/rust/slug which tends to keep them from operating correctly..

                    Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
                    Warner Robins, GA 31088
                    478-953-3077

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